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View Full Version : Making my own boxes...



Zovc
2009-12-12, 07:41 PM
Yesterday, I bought the two mini-expansions to a board game I own, Small World.

I'm always impressed when I open the box to Small World, it's such a neatly designed package. Everything fits into a easily accessible location and there's no real clutter at all.

The mini-expansions, however, are (very unfortunately) nothing like that. They are cardstock 'sleeves' holding punchable tokens (which, every piece from the original game is also a punchable token), but there is nothing included to contain the pieces with. There's no room in the Small World box to contain the extra tokens, either--there is enough room to contain the five new banners, but not enough room for the seven traits or the number or race tokens I got.

I'm thinking about taking it upon myself to make my own box for Small World + both Mini-expansions, and also maybe even making a new box for a card game I have (Dominion + Intrigue and Seaside expansions). Has anyone ever attempted anything of this nature?

I've done a lot of work with cardboard in my time, and am confident I can do it (not necessarily in a short amount of time, though), I'm just wondering what thoughts or maybe even insight there may be here.

Currently, I have two different ideas for the 'grid' I'll need with Small world's tokens.

Idea 1 is to have a 'double bottom' with enough space to reinforce my rows an columns by doing a little trick I've come up with in my time. I'll try my best to make a diagram, since I can't really figure out how to describe what I'm talking about.

_____---____ <This is "above ground," what would look like the bottom of the box.
_____| |____<the layer of card board that looks like the bottom.
space---space <Empty space where a foot parallel to the row stands for support.
____________ <bottom layer of cardboard making the actual bottom of the box.

Trying again to put this into words, when I would put a row, I would put it into a slit that is 90 degrees away from the target orientation, the piece would then be turned and 'locked' into place by being cut to resemble this: " ] [ ". I would then duct tape the side to the bottom (with one piece, mostly taping at the corner) on both sides of the row in an attempt to reinforce the 'lock.

The second approach mostly skips the locking mechanism and goes straight to the duct tape, I would simply put the row where I want it and duct tape it (again, taping the 'corner' between the 'partition' and the 'floor') in place. I'm thinking the stability difference won't be that great, and I won't have to worry about the 'fake floor' caving in.

I also plan to wrap the box thoroughly (inside and out) with duct tape in an attempt to strengthen and waterproof (as far as rain or a beverage is concerned) it.