The Warhammer Models Thread III: A Brush With Death

[Zorg]

Where last we left off, people were discussing stripping paint from models.

Also:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/Phan25.jpg

[Ninjaman]

That´s pretty freaking huge.

[Zorg]

Yep :smallbiggrin:

17.5" to the top of the head, 23" to the tips of the wings - and she's not even standing up straight :smallwink:

[Incomp]

Lawdy. That is one impressive power rangers figurine piece of work.

[Zorg]

Lawdy. That is one impressive power rangers figurine piece of work.

I would imagine it's a bit bigger than most PR toys...

Also Chapterhouse have released their long awaited female Seer (http://chapterhousestudios.com/webshop/component/virtuemart/?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=114&category_id=36&vmcchk=1):

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/ChSeer01-1.jpg

(more pics on the site)

[Eldan]

Looks a bit bland compared to other Farseers, really. But I like the armour design.

[Jair Barik]

Seeing as people are posting pics from last thread... here are the few photos I took where you could see the models!


http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc97/dragonhunter55/Snapshot_20100529.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc97/dragonhunter55/Snapshot_20100529-1.jpghttp://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc97/dragonhunter55/Snapshot_20100624.jpghttp://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc97/dragonhunter55/Snapshot_20100624_1.jpg
Everybody loves an Ork-fex!

[Trekkin]

Wasn't II the last thread?

Awesome ork fex, Jair. The goblin is a really nice touch.

A question, if I may: Is there any reason I can't drill out a large cannon barrel and maybe glue a little shell at the bottom to keep there from being just a big flat patch at the bottom? I've only ever seen relatively small guns being drilled out, and I'm looking at getting a model I think might look good with a drilled out cannon (Darius, from Warmachine) if there isn't some structural reason not to do so.

[dsmiles]

Wasn't II the last thread?


A question, if I may: Is there any reason I can't drill out a large cannon barrel and maybe glue a little shell at the bottom to keep there from being just a big flat patch at the bottom? I've only ever seen relatively small guns being drilled out, and I'm looking at getting a model I think might look good with a drilled out cannon (Darius, from Warmachine) if there isn't some structural reason not to do so.
Yes, and yes.
I don't see why you couldn't do that with a cannon, as long as it stays structurally sound...

[Gruffard]

Darius being pewter will make it harder, but I have drilled out the bigger cannon of the defender. Shouldn't be impossible.

[Winterwind]

May want to edit this thread's title to say Thread III instead of Thread II, Zorg. :smallwink:


Looks a bit bland compared to other Farseers, really. But I like the armour design.I think the problem is the posture. Everything else is perfectly fine - more than that, even, I'd say - but the posture is rather bland and non-dynamic.

I may as well shamelessly use this opportunity to re-post my own Farseer, as I think it was kinda lost in the whole "stripping of models"-discussion. :smalltongue:
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee90/Winterwind83/Warhammer40k/Eldar1/Dsc01374s.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee90/Winterwind83/Warhammer40k/Eldar1/Dsc01375s.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee90/Winterwind83/Warhammer40k/Eldar1/Dsc01376s.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee90/Winterwind83/Warhammer40k/Eldar1/Dsc01377s.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee90/Winterwind83/Warhammer40k/Eldar1/Dsc01378s.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee90/Winterwind83/Warhammer40k/Eldar1/Dsc01380s.png

[Gruffard]

I like the blending on the jet bike and lance. Was that done free hand?

If there was tools or a trick involved, please divulged.

[Trekkin]

Darius being pewter will make it harder, but I have drilled out the bigger cannon of the defender. Shouldn't be impossible.

Is there an accepted means of boring a hole that big in pewter? I'd think to use a drill press with a series of bits gradually increasing in diameter, slowly and with water, and clamp the part in multiple layers of foam, but that's probably silly.

[Gruffard]

To answer your concerns:
-Since I use a hand press, I didn't need a clamp or foam buffering.
-Pewter is soft enough that as long as you go slow (use low rpm) You don't need lubrication to prevent warping (although it still helps).
-Any drill designed for wood will be sturdy enough for the pewter/lead models.

If go to do it, start much smaller then you need and widen it with bigger drill bits in succession. I only done it a few times, others might have better instructions.

[Ninjaman]

May want to edit this thread's title to say Thread III instead of Thread II, Zorg. :smallwink:

I think the problem is the posture. Everything else is perfectly fine - more than that, even, I'd say - but the posture is rather bland and non-dynamic.

I may as well shamelessly use this opportunity to re-post my own Farseer, as I think it was kinda lost in the whole "stripping of models"-discussion. :smalltongue:
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee90/Winterwind83/Warhammer40k/Eldar1/Dsc01374s.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee90/Winterwind83/Warhammer40k/Eldar1/Dsc01375s.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee90/Winterwind83/Warhammer40k/Eldar1/Dsc01376s.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee90/Winterwind83/Warhammer40k/Eldar1/Dsc01377s.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee90/Winterwind83/Warhammer40k/Eldar1/Dsc01378s.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee90/Winterwind83/Warhammer40k/Eldar1/Dsc01380s.png

Looks good but i think it lacks depht, it looks quite flat (IMHO).

[Ichneumon]

My mind is vexed. I'm currently practicing my painting skills on space marines from the Assault on Black Reach starter box and I had planned to stat a "real" army of Dark Eldar after I'd gained some more experience painting, but now I'm tempted to switch to Warhammer Fantasy instead (mostly because I might actually get to use those miniatues as well in my D&D games), what to do?:smalleek:

[Closet_Skeleton]

I just bought some army painter spraypaint and seem to have forgotten how to open the darn cans since the last time I bought one.

[Borgh]

I just bought some army painter spraypaint and seem to have forgotten how to open the darn cans since the last time I bought one.

they are blledin annoying for sure. You can either brute-force them or cut though the strips on the bottom of the cap.

[Ichneumon]

A "Work In Progress" picture of a space marine terminator:

http://img860.imageshack.us/img860/6570/img0474ad.jpg

Haven't done much yet, apart from some basic coating etc.

[Trekkin]

My mind is vexed. I'm currently practicing my painting skills on space marines from the Assault on Black Reach starter box and I had planned to stat a "real" army of Dark Eldar after I'd gained some more experience painting, but now I'm tempted to switch to Warhammer Fantasy instead (mostly because I might actually get to use those miniatues as well in my D&D games), what to do?:smalleek:

Is there any reason you can't simply use DE minis in D&D? The Beastmaster set in particular could work as aberrations, and Wyches don't have anything that would seem out of place to me.

[Ninjaman]

My mind is vexed. I'm currently practicing my painting skills on space marines from the Assault on Black Reach starter box and I had planned to stat a "real" army of Dark Eldar after I'd gained some more experience painting, but now I'm tempted to switch to Warhammer Fantasy instead (mostly because I might actually get to use those miniatues as well in my D&D games), what to do?:smalleek:

If you want to switch to fantasy, do so.
If you don´t, don´t
As easy as that.

[Winterwind]

I like the blending on the jet bike and lance. Was that done free hand?

If there was tools or a trick involved, please divulged.Yeah, it was freehand.

On the jetbike, it was done by stippling, just like on my Fire Prism (http://www.giantitp.com/forums/showpost.php?p=10248178&postcount=765) (by now, I have two Fire Prisms as well as a dozen guardian jetbikes in the same style). On the "lance" (actually a self-made Singing Spear) it was done by simply painting with both different colours on two adjacent spots of the lance at a time, and then blending them together by brushing over them before they could dry, same as how I did all my Wood Elves (http://www.giantitp.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9899761&postcount=521).


Looks good but i think it lacks depht, it looks quite flat (IMHO).I'll be the first one to admit that I tend to be rather conservative when it comes to shading. :smallredface:

[Ninjaman]

Yeah, it was freehand.

On the jetbike, it was done by stippling, just like on my Fire Prism (http://www.giantitp.com/forums/showpost.php?p=10248178&postcount=765) (by now, I have two Fire Prisms as well as a dozen guardian jetbikes in the same style). On the "lance" (actually a self-made Singing Spear) it was done by simply painting with both different colours on two adjacent spots of the lance at a time, and then blending them together by brushing over them before they could dry, same as how I did all my Wood Elves (http://www.giantitp.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9899761&postcount=521).

I'll be the first one to admit that I tend to be rather conservative when it comes to shading. :smallredface:

Well then you know what to focus on. I actually think it is a little sad as so many of your models are really great, but others are ruined by flatness.
Also some of your wood elves seem to have a lack of... eyes.

[Winterwind]

Well then you know what to focus on. I actually think it is a little sad as so many of your models are really great, but others are ruined by flatness.I actually plan to practice just that on the Grey Knights I will be working on now; I intend some pretty heavy shading/highlighting work on those.


Also some of your wood elves seem to have a lack of... eyes.Yeah, I know; I still plan to go over all of my models once and, firstly, fix all the eyes (I kinda forgot that step on the first dozen models or so, and then, after I'd realized it, I didn't feel like correcting it on all of them, so I'll do it at some future point in one go; I also intend to add some more details to their bases, grass mostly.

[Hawkfrost000]

My mind is vexed. I'm currently practicing my painting skills on space marines from the Assault on Black Reach starter box and I had planned to stat a "real" army of Dark Eldar after I'd gained some more experience painting, but now I'm tempted to switch to Warhammer Fantasy instead (mostly because I might actually get to use those miniatues as well in my D&D games), what to do?:smalleek:

collect both! its what i did :smalltongue:

on a more economic note since you already have the WH40K start with it, see if you like it. then see where you want to go from there.


I just bought some army painter spraypaint and seem to have forgotten how to open the darn cans since the last time I bought one.

i love army painter, but i hate those lids...

i usually leave them off.

DM

[Tarinaky]

My current 'plan'/resolution is to paint one thing from my choice army and then one thing from anywhere else.

The trouble with Warhammer Fantasy is while having a few Dark Elves or Chaos Warriors or Skeletons is handy for D&D and whatever else - a unit of troops in that game requires you to paint over 15 of one thing.

So whatever army you collect you'll be bored of the figures after the first regiment.

[Jair Barik]

Okay I have a pretty good idea of the sorts of things I'd do for various BA dreads now.

For Death company one done up with a long trailing hair and Zangetsu (http://codegeass.wikia.com/wiki/Zangetsu)paint scheme and a second with one arm being a converted force weapon done up like a lance, with a cloak and Gloucester (http://codegeass.wikia.com/wiki/Gloucester)paint scheme.

For Furiosos
-Guren (http://codegeass.wikia.com/wiki/Guren_Mk-II)paint cheme on one with 2 blood talons/fists.
-Mordred (http://codegeass.wikia.com/wiki/Mordred) paint scheme for one with the big arm cannon
-Galahad (http://codegeass.wikia.com/wiki/Galahad) paint scheme for the Libby, replacing the standard force weapon with a Soul Grinder's sword.

In general using converted fronts so they all have heads (likely using Librarian/DC/Venerable sarcophogi as the base for them) and if I ever go for Storm ravens would likely go for an orange and green paint scheme in the styl of the Siegried (http://codegeass.wikia.com/wiki/Siegfried)

[Squark]

Behold, my first miniature (well, the first miniature I've finished from assembly to painting, anyway)

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc78/TheGreatSquark/Models/CIMG1398.jpg
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc78/TheGreatSquark/Models/CIMG1400.jpg
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc78/TheGreatSquark/Models/CIMG1403.jpg
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc78/TheGreatSquark/Models/CIMG1401.jpg

[Hawkfrost000]

good job man, those lawn chairs are beautiful...

oh, and the models great too:smalltongue:

it looks beter than my first attempt (granted i was 12 [just] at the time)

DM

[Squark]

good job man, those lawn chairs are beautiful...

oh, and the models great too:smalltongue:

it looks beter than my first attempt (granted i was 12 [just] at the time)

DM

Oh, right. The Lawn chairs. My camera is much easier to work with in natural light, and the lawn chairs were the only flat surface available.

And I do have previous attempts at painting somewhere from around that age, it's just I never had the patience to finish. One thing that's nice about necrons; The base is all one color.

[Ninjaman]

Looks nice Squark, not bad for a first model.

[Erloas]

I just bought some army painter spraypaint and seem to have forgotten how to open the darn cans since the last time I bought one.
Not sure about those specifically, but the majority of spray paint cans have a little square hole in the base of the lid specifically designed to stick a flat screw driver into it to pop the lid off.


My mind is vexed. I'm currently practicing my painting skills on space marines from the Assault on Black Reach starter box and I had planned to stat a "real" army of Dark Eldar after I'd gained some more experience painting, but now I'm tempted to switch to Warhammer Fantasy instead (mostly because I might actually get to use those miniatues as well in my D&D games), what to do?:smalleek:
The most important thing to look at is what are people playing where you live? You might have a very active community of both around, or you might have one be very popular and the other mostly ignored. Not having anyone to play against is a large problem that is hard to change.

If you have the choice of either then the question becomes a lot more complicated. While the systems have a lot in common, they play a lot different too. And you get people from both games saying their's is the better game. I personally prefer fantasy because to me 40k doesn't feel like what I think sci-fi should be and I prefer Battletech for my sci-fi game. But I play 40k because thats what people here play.
Really the best way is to see if you can find people to show you some 1000 point demo games for each game using different armies.

[Zorg]

Get off my lawn!

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/Phan38.jpg


Finished assembly - shoulders were a huge pain to get right, not very well designed from a structural PoV.
Painting starts tomorrow, though I've got to finish converting the pilot yet (head's not stuck on yet).

[CreganTur]

Good luck painting the titan- that's a big area to paint. Hope you've got an airbrush!

[Ninjaman]

Good luck painting the titan- that's a big area to paint. Hope you've got an airbrush!

And tons of time.

[Zorg]

Good luck painting the titan- that's a big area to paint. Hope you've got an airbrush!

Indeed I do, painting one of these (or even a smaller one) without one would take forever, not to mention the finish would be terrible.
Bought an $8 lazy susan from Woolworths to act as a turntable :smallbiggrin:


And tons of time.

I took two weeks holidays from work to paint her :smallwink:

The most time consuming part will be masking off all the TRON lines when I get to those.

[Chumbaniya]

Hi folks, thought I'd start posting here as I've recently started getting back into some painting after about a 6 year break since I bought the WHFB starter set and painted only a few orcs before forgetting the whole thing.

I've already got 3 projects on the go now: some of the new savage orc boar boyz I got as a one-off when I got myself a paint set, some ork stormboyz my girlfriend got at the same time and pressured me into painting, and some killa kans I got just this weekend. As you can see, I'm quite a fan of greenskins.

Unfortunately I haven't got any photos for now as I don't have a camera and I need to pick up my phone as it's just been repaired.

I've been building and painting like a maniac since last night, putting together the 3 kans, spraying them chaos black and doing a lot of painting on one of them. It's been very quick thanks to a basecoat of tin bitz over the sprayed black - I've left a lot of the main sections alone except for some lighter highlights. I've gone for red plates on the shoulders, legs and feet, bronze on the leg pistons, top hatch and some extra details, and a really nice red-to-yellow blend on the toothy section on the front. It's already looking pretty promising, but I've yet to paint the arms as I'm attaching them afterwards to make painting easier.

[dsmiles]

Get off my lawn!
RUN, LITTLE SQUISHY, RUN!!!

[Zorg]

RUN, LITTLE SQUISHY, RUN!!!

Ha ha, I was actually watching Gran Torino earlier, so a bit angrier :smallbiggrin:


Started painting:

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lUCk7PhjZvY/TcGRPxCskZI/AAAAAAAABAQ/wYzQuiWXQX4/s1600/Phan43.jpg

Not 100% done yet, but I'm happy with the results.

Had a near disaster with the airbrush as I was basecoating. Everything was going fine for the first few passes, and then I noticed it seemed a bit runny, and then noticed that there was literally paint dripping off some sections.
It was truely bizzare as everything was fine until about halfway when it just put out a burst of what could have been wash :smallconfused:

A brief moment of panic later and I grabbed some paper towel and wiped her down - and all is well.

[Ninjaman]

Zorg@^
Looks nice, looks a little like something from TRON (Wich is an awesome movie).
Can´t wait to see the finished model.
Also are you painting this just for the fun of it, or are you gaing to play with it?

[Zorg]

TRON is the theme for my Eldar TRONdar. The pilot above is Quorra, and the phantom will be done with yellow/orange lines similar to Clu.

The aim is to have the PhanTRON and a bunch of other stuff done for Armies on Parade in September. That said, I'm mainly painting because I want to - the AoP thing is a good deadline to keep me motivated and painting the rest of the army.

I'd also take her to any Apocalypse games I was going to once she's done.

[CreganTur]

Sounds like your moisture trap had a hiccup. I've had that happen before.

It's looking pretty TRON-ish; jsut need to up the highlights on the light bars- make 'em nice and bright.

[dsmiles]

I'd also take her to any Apocalypse games I was going to once she's done. And when you win, you have to look your opponent dead in the eye, and say (with a straight face, mind), "End of Line."

EDIT: More Pics.

Guard Mice:http://i675.photobucket.com/albums/vv111/dsmiles76/Random%20Minis/DSC01329.jpg
http://i675.photobucket.com/albums/vv111/dsmiles76/Random%20Minis/DSC01331.jpg
http://i675.photobucket.com/albums/vv111/dsmiles76/Random%20Minis/DSC01332.jpg
http://i675.photobucket.com/albums/vv111/dsmiles76/Random%20Minis/DSC01333.jpg
http://i675.photobucket.com/albums/vv111/dsmiles76/Random%20Minis/DSC01334.jpg
http://i675.photobucket.com/albums/vv111/dsmiles76/Random%20Minis/DSC01336.jpg
Mule:http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/4/217804_md-Mercenary%2C%20Pirates%2C%20Steampunk%2C%20Warmach ine%2C%20Wm.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/4/217805_md-Mercenary%2C%20Pirates%2C%20Steampunk%2C%20Warmach ine%2C%20Wm.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/4/217806_md-Mercenary%2C%20Pirates%2C%20Steampunk%2C%20Warmach ine%2C%20Wm.jpg
Lylyth, Herald of Everblight:http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/4/217816_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/4/217817_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/4/217818_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
Hex Hunter:http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/4/217819_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/4/217821_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/4/217820_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
Shredders:http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/4/217814_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/4/217815_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
Teraph and Nephilim Bolt Thrower:http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/4/217810_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/4/217811_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/4/217812_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
And my current crowning glory,
Ravagore:http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/4/217807_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/4/217808_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/4/217809_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
You probably can't see it in the pictures, but the Ravagore's blight breath and "eyespots" are glazed heavily in a glow-in-the-dark blue acrylic. (It actually glows the standard greenish yellow, but dries as a blue glaze.)

[Squark]

How easy is it to carve hardened green stuff with a knife? I'm going to use green stuff to make the nozzles on my Necron's guns, and I need to carve the hole into the nozzle, but I'm not sure if it's better to wait for the stuff to harden or not.

[dsmiles]

How easy is it to carve hardened green stuff with a knife? I'm going to use green stuff to make the nozzles on my Necron's guns, and I need to carve the hole into the nozzle, but I'm not sure if it's better to wait for the stuff to harden or not.If you have a piece of wire, or small drill bit, you could form it around the object, then pull the object out before the green stuff completely hardened.
Otherwise, it's probably as difficult as carving/drilling/pinning resin or plastic. I don't have any experience with that part, myself, just cleaning up ugly lines on it with a modelling knife.

[Gruffard]

Yea, green stuff modelling is a combination of tech used when its soft still, and when it is cured (hard).

dsmiles 's ideas makes sense. Use something and mold it around to give you the basic barrel shape, and maybe use a drill or knife to clear it out some more. Try to get as much done as you can when its still stuff and do touch ups with with carving.

G'luck.

[Zorg]

Sounds like your moisture trap had a hiccup. I've had that happen before.

It's looking pretty TRON-ish; jsut need to up the highlights on the light bars- make 'em nice and bright.

Yes, I'm waiting on more paint before I can do that, unfortunately, but the plan is to build them up to be much brighter.





http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/Phan49.jpg



"End of Line."

:smallbiggrin:


Need to go back over and patch a few spots where the tape took off some paint, then highlight the lines and give them a 'glow'. The paint worked exceptionally well.



EDIT: More Pics.

The mice are as cute as always, and Mule looks disturbingly happy... the wood paneling on it is well done too.
Only advice I can offer is for Lylyth to wash her silver armour in black then drybrush in silver again. It'll keep the brightness, but add depth - it looks too flat at the moment and overpowers the model.



How easy is it to carve hardened green stuff with a knife? I'm going to use green stuff to make the nozzles on my Necron's guns, and I need to carve the hole into the nozzle, but I'm not sure if it's better to wait for the stuff to harden or not.

It's fairly easy, but I prefer to do all I can before it hardens, or at least get it close so it will only be a bit of fine tuning to get it right.

[Ninjaman]

Dsmiles@^
What are those from? I know the warjack but have no idea about the others.

Zorg@^
If she is Quorra then she needs more mascara and paler skin.
The titan looks nice, but why did you paint those lines before painting the titan itself?

[Jair Barik]

Not sure about the mice but the monsters and elves all come from the Everblight (drow/dragons) faction of Hordes, the monster version of warmachine.

[Ninjaman]

Not sure about the mice but the monsters and elves all come from the Everblight (drow/dragons) faction of Hordes, the monster version of warmachine.

Hordes, of course.

[Zorg]

If she is Quorra then she needs more mascara and paler skin.

Not literally, but closely modelled after. I did try a very pallid skin tone and heavier makeup, but she ended up looking like some creepy sex-clown... not realy what I was going for. Without makeup was too bland, so I bit the bullet and warmed her skin up.




The titan looks nice, but why did you paint those lines before painting the titan itself?

It doesn't show due to the harsh light but I've airbrushed on a bunch of highlights (the lamp obscures them), and I needed to put the lines on to see how the colour balance came out at the end.
There is be extensive detail work to come, don't worry :)

edit: and I didn't want the masking tape to rip up the details, it took enough off as is :smalleek:

[dsmiles]

The mice are as cute as always, and Mule looks disturbingly happy... the wood paneling on it is well done too.
Only advice I can offer is for Lylyth to wash her silver armour in black then drybrush in silver again. It'll keep the brightness, but add depth - it looks too flat at the moment and overpowers the model.To be fair, the wood paneling is actually wood. I just washed it to darken it up a bit. :smallwink:

[Zorg]

To be fair, the wood paneling is actually wood. I just washed it to darken it up a bit. :smallwink:

So never compliment you again - got it :smallwink: Even still, it's a nice shade.


It turns out the sections of the model where the paint stripped off was not simply bad luck, but grease spots... this can sometimes happed with resin models where sections of the cast havn't set properly so the part seeps the excess out. It can appear as if the part is still slick from mould release agent and will come clean with a wash, but nothing can be done to fix it permanently than hope the part fully sets soon.

Anyways, a bit of sanding, re-spraying and swearing later I've got her patched back up and added glow to the lines:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/Phan50.jpg

Now it's on to shading the details by hand.

[dsmiles]

So never compliment you again - got it :smallwink: Even still, it's a nice shade.No, I just didn't want you to assume that I'm good at modeling or anything. :smalltongue:

BTW, I really like the light bars on that PhanTRON

[Zorg]

No, I just didn't want you to assume that I'm good at modeling or anything. :smalltongue:

Ehhh, my way's easier :smallwink:



BTW, I really like the light bars on that PhanTRON

Thanks, still need to shade them some more before I'm totally happy with them - they look fine up close but a little flat at a distance.

[CreganTur]

@Dsmiles
Wow that's a lot of minis! I like what you're doing, but I think you're using paint that's way too thick- it's covering up some of the details in the figures, especially on a couple of the mice.

@zorg
That titan's looking very Tron-ish!
If you want to really brighten up the lines then I'd suggest glazing on a color like VMC Silvergrey or Deck Tan.

[dsmiles]

@Dsmiles
Wow that's a lot of minis! I like what you're doing, but I think you're using paint that's way too thick- it's covering up some of the details in the figures, especially on a couple of the mice.So thinning = consistency of skim milk (not whole milk)?

[Ninja Chocobo]

So thinning = consistency of skim milk (not whole milk)?

If the paint you're using is full-cream milk consistency it shouldn't be obscuring details like that unless you're applying it with a trowel.

[Incomp]

Lawdy, the light bars on the phanTRON are cool. Keep doing awesome things in the future, please.

[Ninja Chocobo]

Some more Space Shaaaaaaarks!

http://i.imgur.com/buaHZ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/7Lrtq.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/yK2wY.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/qj6K0.jpg

Probably need to re-do the edge highlights; they appear to have been completely erased by the sunlight.

[Ninjaman]

Some more Space Shaaaaaaarks!

http://i.imgur.com/buaHZ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/7Lrtq.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/yK2wY.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/qj6K0.jpg

Probably need to re-do the edge highlights; they appear to have been completely erased by the sunlight.

The face also looks a bit flat.

[Eldan]

So, I had an idea that is probably not going to work. Here's the thing: I love the sphinxes that Nehekhara gets now. I want one, even if I never play Khemri.

Then I started thinking what to do with the leftover parts. Building it leaves me with a torso, head and a few other parts. I thought about converting that part into a Bone Giant (Titan, now) that looks a bit more like an actual statue.

The problem, of course, being that it lacks half a torso and legs. And here comes my question: does anyone know a (preferably plastic) model that has useful legs for this? Statue preferable, but really, any big model with good-looking legs works.

[Jair Barik]

Could you slice the top off of the dude from the honoured imperium terrain set? None of the pieces go to waste as you end up with some ruined statues for scenery in 40k (assuming you play that of course).

EDIT: Further thoughts
Of 'roughly' appropriate size and in plastic...
-Rat ogres (probably too skinny though)
-River troll (probably too squat though)
-Chaos daemon prince (could be good)
-Minotaur (probably much too fleshy)
-Ogres (clothes would likely need some converting to look more ruined)

[Winterwind]

Some more Space Shaaaaaaarks!

http://i.imgur.com/buaHZ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/7Lrtq.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/yK2wY.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/qj6K0.jpg

Probably need to re-do the edge highlights; they appear to have been completely erased by the sunlight.ROAR! I EATZ LITTLE PEEPLES! :smallbiggrin:

So, how many of them do you have now? :smallsmile:


The problem, of course, being that it lacks half a torso and legs. And here comes my question: does anyone know a (preferably plastic) model that has useful legs for this? Statue preferable, but really, any big model with good-looking legs works.Ooof... that might be difficult. That Sphinx really is pretty damn huge and massive.

Brainstorming:
- an actual Bone Giant. Might kinda defeat the purpose though.
- a regular Giant. That would be large enough... but it's not exactly what I would call "good-looking".
- this piece of scenery (http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat440312a&prodId=prod630018a) was actually my very first idea - it would be good looking, and it shouldn't be too difficult to cut it in shape - but I'm pretty sure it's much too small.
- some Daemon Prince or another. But I'm pretty sure those are way too small as well.
- briefly thought of Inquisitor models. No. Way, way, way too small.
- umm... drawing blank. I can't think of any humanoid models in the GW range that would be large enough, besides actual Giants. I may be underestimating the size of some of the above, or my memory is playing tricks on me regarding how large the sphinx is (remember, I had two of those going up against me, that may make them seem larger than they are in my mind :smalltongue:), but I think you'd have to either get a Giant of some sort or seek outside of the GW range (where my knowledge doesn't reach and I can give no advice. :smallredface:).

EDIT: Partially ninja'd. Jair Barik, I think one of us two either severely under- or overestimates the size of the sphinx. I'm horrible at estimating sizes (and so is my memory when it comes to them), so there is an excellent chance it's me - but I think Ogres and Minotaurs and such would have to be twice as tall as they are for them to fit the Sphinx. Minimum. :smallwink:

[Eldan]

Hmmm. I might actually start looking around for non-model things. Small statuettes or the like. The imperium guy might work.

Here's a a picture I found for size:

http://www.glaven.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/TK_Necrosphinx_0.jpg


Edit:
How would the Eldar Avatar (http://www.games-workshop.com/MEDIA_CustomProductCatalog/m1241385_99060104074_Avatarmain_873x627.jpg) fit in size, I wonder...

[Zorg]

Some more Space Shaaaaaaarks!

http://i.imgur.com/buaHZ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/7Lrtq.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/yK2wY.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/qj6K0.jpg

Probably need to re-do the edge highlights; they appear to have been completely erased by the sunlight.

Nice smooth grey, and the power sword is very sharky. Only criticism is the white of the teeth designs could do with another coat. When I do those designs I put the white down first (well, astro-grey then white), and put the red over the top. Doing it that way allows me to get a crisper white and sharper edges on the teeth.


Eldan, you could mount it on something totally different to make some necron like construct if you can't find legs for it.


Titan progress:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/Phan51.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/Phan52.jpg

I've increased the glow around the lines, as well as added soem deeper shading to the lines. Both are visible to me sitting here around eight feet away, though the shading is quite subtle this far away which I think is a good thing - the lines don't look flat, but they still look like they are meant to be a consistent shade.
Still need to add some highlighting though.

[Jair Barik]

Big no no the eldar avatar.
That model is way too small. However a forgeworld avatar may work or alternatively a Wraithlord.

[Eldan]

Hell no, I'm not buying forgeworld models. The shipping alone would ruin me. So, barring an actual statuette, demon lord seems like the best bet.

[CreganTur]

I've always wanted to paint one of the really gritty and violent fantasy orcs from GW,and I managed to pick up an old metal Gorbad Ironhide on the cheap at a LHS down in Atlanta. I really like this sculpt- there are a lot of open areas to play around on and I plan on trying a bunch of new things to really make him look good.

So far the only think finished on him is the skin, mouth, and teeth (except for the metal tusk). I started out with a mixture of Goblin Green and Bronzed Flesh for the base color. I shaded to red and then down into purple with a number of glazes and brought up the highlights to a pure glaze of Deck Tan.

The tongue was actually fun to paint and took a number of different colors to complete. I based it with VMC Scarlet Red and the applied a few washes of Leviathan Purple. Once that all dried I glazed some pink around the outer edge and blended it all together.

I'm hoping to make this guy a DG entry, so harsh critiques are most appreciated.

http://www.stonetowerminiatures.com/albums/gorbad/gorbad1.jpg

[dsmiles]

I'm hoping to make this guy a DG entry, so harsh critiques are most appreciated.

RED ONES GO FASTA!! :smalltongue:

[Jair Barik]

Hell no, I'm not buying forgeworld models. The shipping alone would ruin me. So, barring an actual statuette, demon lord seems like the best bet.

Yep. The non FW version is about the size of a terminator.

Also CreganTur what is DG? Do you mean GD (golden demon)?

[Ninjaman]

Hmmm. I might actually start looking around for non-model things. Small statuettes or the like. The imperium guy might work.

Here's a a picture I found for size:

http://www.glaven.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/TK_Necrosphinx_0.jpg


That thing is pretty huge. And i am going to buy 2 tomorrow :smallamused:

Edit:
How would the Eldar Avatar (http://www.games-workshop.com/MEDIA_CustomProductCatalog/m1241385_99060104074_Avatarmain_873x627.jpg) fit in size, I wonder...


I've always wanted to paint one of the really gritty and violent fantasy orcs from GW,and I managed to pick up an old metal Gorbad Ironhide on the cheap at a LHS down in Atlanta. I really like this sculpt- there are a lot of open areas to play around on and I plan on trying a bunch of new things to really make him look good.

So far the only think finished on him is the skin, mouth, and teeth (except for the metal tusk). I started out with a mixture of Goblin Green and Bronzed Flesh for the base color. I shaded to red and then down into purple with a number of glazes and brought up the highlights to a pure glaze of Deck Tan.

The tongue was actually fun to paint and took a number of different colors to complete. I based it with VMC Scarlet Red and the applied a few washes of Leviathan Purple. Once that all dried I glazed some pink around the outer edge and blended it all together.

I'm hoping to make this guy a DG entry, so harsh critiques are most appreciated.

http://www.stonetowerminiatures.com/albums/gorbad/gorbad1.jpg

Grimgor ironhide? The red armor is way too flat. I don´t know but if you dare you can maby try non metal metal?

[Jair Barik]

He did say the skin and teeth were the only bits that were finished.
Those parts are looking pretty good to me, keep up the good work.

[Ninjaman]

He did say the skin and teeth were the only bits that were finished.
Those parts are looking pretty good to me, keep up the good work.

Yeah well he did. Also Cregan i really liked whatyou did with the severed head, is it a statue?

[Ninja Chocobo]

The face also looks a bit flat.

It's actually shaded, but pale skin plus bright lights plus bad angle...

ROAR! I EATZ LITTLE PEEPLES! :smallbiggrin:

So, how many of them do you have now? :smallsmile:
Er, thirteen. Kind of a slow process when I don't have the right paints at home.

Nice smooth grey, and the power sword is very sharky. Only criticism is the white of the teeth designs could do with another coat. When I do those designs I put the white down first (well, astro-grey then white), and put the red over the top. Doing it that way allows me to get a crisper white and sharper edges on the teeth.

Y'know, I actually paint red by painting white first, and that never occurred to me. I'll give it a go on the next model.

[Ninjaman]

Today i am going to GW to get my hands on some of the new tomb kings

[ShadowFighter15]

Okay, remember how I said that I was going to do a bit of colour test with Quickshade to see if it'd work for shading my Warmachine models? It was in the previous thread so it probably got lost. Anyway, finally got around to it and, either I should've used bits with more recessed detail, painted the Quickshade on rather than dipping, or Strong Tone doesn't do enough to the colour.

Ice Blue and Elf Flesh were still too bright after the 'shade and there didn't seem to be much difference in the darker colours. So with that in-mind, I'm going to do something I swore I would never do when I first got into tabletop wargames - hand highlighting.

Not sure how long it'll be, still got a couple of Stormblades missing arms and I haven't even primed stuff yet. Probably do that tomorrow if it's not raining. Either way - don't get your hopes up on quality, especially since I can't be bothered to mix paints (if I ever shift over to a paint range that uses dropper bottles instead of GW's pots that may change - watching the painting videos Beasts of War did for a Grey Knight Terminator's gotten me a bit more open to the idea).

[Eldan]

Eldan, you could mount it on something totally different to make some necron like construct if you can't find legs for it.


Now I'm tempted of getting a gigantic snake body. That should be easier, actually, they sell rubber snake at every fair here. I'll have to try that. Then some plastic card, some wire and some greenstuff... that should work.

[Ninja Chocobo]

So, P3 paints kind of irritate me. I have here Idrian Flesh, Bootstrap Leather, and Bloodtracker Brown and I swear they're the exact same shade, with only a slight difference in tone.
Thank goodness for Menoth White Highlight or I'd never get decent highlights.

[Incomp]

Now I'm tempted of getting a gigantic snake body. That should be easier, actually, they sell rubber snake at every fair here. I'll have to try that. Then some plastic card, some wire and some greenstuff... that should work.

What about, like, a necron tomb stalker?

[Eldan]

Another Forgeworld model, sadly. Would be cool, but shipping from the UK here is extremely expensive. Plus, from what I've heard, Resin is difficult (and potentially dangerous) to work with.

[Jair Barik]

I have some resin (dystopian wars) models. Theyare indeed hard to work with compared to plastic but in this case thankfully there is very little to do on them except clip off of flash.

It is a carcinogenic though and so any work beyond clipping off flash (sanding, drilling etc.) should be done outside in a well ventilated area wearing a mask of some kind to avoid inhaling dust/fumes. It is indeed dangerous.

[Closet_Skeleton]

Today i am going to GW to get my hands on some of the new tomb kings

I just did that. Only bought the book and a box of tomb guard and I'll probably use the tomb gaurd for bits to spread among my chariots and warriors. Just because a proper unit of Tomb Guard would be expensive.

One of the nice parts about the book is the alternate colour schemes in the colour section. They're all a lot better than the standard one.

[Eldan]

Oh? I've had a look through the new WD, there wasn't anything in there I liked more than the standard one.

I thought I might go for Alabaster over the ever-present Obsidian, though. Seems more egyptian. In fact, I can't remember seeing Obsidian anywhere in Egyptian art.

[Winterwind]

I thought I might go for Alabaster over the ever-present Obsidian, though. Seems more egyptian. In fact, I can't remember seeing Obsidian anywhere in Egyptian art.That seems quite reasonable, considering they had a city named after Alabaster (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alabaster#Calcite_alabaster) in Ancient Egypt, whereas I'm not aware of them having had any volcanoes in their vicinity. :smalltongue:

[Eldan]

Ah, didn't know about the city. But I've seen plenty of Egyptian statuary from the material.

Edit:

The finer kinds of alabaster are employed largely as an ornamental stone, especially for ecclesiastical decoration and for the rails of staircases and halls. Its softness enables it to be carved readily into elaborate forms, but its solubility in water renders it unsuitable for outdoor work. If alabaster with a smooth, polished surface is washed with washing-up liquid, it will become rough, dull and whiter, losing most of its translucency and lustre.

:smallbiggrin:

[Winterwind]

Good thing it's a dry, dry desert out there in Nehekhara. :smalltongue:

[Eldan]

Not much for invading the old world, though.

Ah, well. It's magic :smalltongue:

[Closet_Skeleton]

Oh? I've had a look through the new WD, there wasn't anything in there I liked more than the standard one.

They have some guys with green-bronze armour and weapons that are pretty cool.

Its probably just that the studio army is worse painted than the one off models that they don't actually have an army of.

My personal idea for the spare necrosphinx bits is a Thousand Sons Defiler.


Not much for invading the old world, though.


At least the new fluff lets you invade the old world rather than just be stay at home and read kings.

[Dark Faun]

Yes, some of them went from "restore our might" to "crawling in my skin and crawling scarabs in your skin!" with the new book. Not that I mind, they're the only undead I actually like. :smallwink:

I love the ... scarlet king? red king? not sure about his name in English. Lovely paint scheme his army got.

Also, a note for all those who paint Word Bearers: Army Painters' Dragon Red is too light for them. Back to GW's paint gun for me. :smalltongue:

[CreganTur]

First of all, I was wrong- the Orc is Grimgore Ironhide, not Gorbad:smallconfused:. This is actually how he comes- I like the sculpt so much that I didn't convert anything. I will be creating a very cool base to go along with him, but I'm not sure what it's going to be, yet. I do know I'm going to be creating some bloody strings to make it look like it's a fresh kill.

Also, yes, I meant GD.

[Zorg]

Corsair:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/Cors01.jpg

[Incomp]

@Dark Faun: IIRC, it was the crimson king.

[Closet_Skeleton]

I love the ... scarlet king? red king? not sure about his name in English. Lovely paint scheme his army got.


Its crimson king. Think the prog rock band. Or the Steven King novel series.

Pity the fluff then has him relegated to the role of Ogre Tyrant's personal toothpick.

[Eldan]

Ah, well. Ogres need some victories from time to time. The new White Dwarf had an entire section on his army, but I didn't like the paint scheme at all, honestly. Didn't seem to fit my ideas of Khemri. Looked more Vampire Count or demonic to me.

[Jair Barik]

I actually have a chess set in Alabaster.
It is a nice texture with interesting patterning and can be produced in various colours. That said I'm uncertain how one would go about making something appear Alabaster instead of marble.

[Eldan]

I'd probably go for some vaguely pinkish colour. Half-white, half-bleached bone, with a very thin red wash.

[Closet_Skeleton]

Angels Encarmine deathcompany are supposed to be Alabaster. I used white drybrushed over bleached bone with a little bit of devlan mud in the resses for them.

[Dark Faun]

Crimson king? Makes sense. Crimson is the most "warhammy" word of the red synonyms. Thanks for the correction.

I liked the Crimson Prince trampling the Ogre camp to death with a whole mountain though. :smalltongue:

[Closet_Skeleton]

These new tomb guard still aren't what I want from the tomb kings army. Robotic disciplined legions of souless killers. Instead they're shambling horrors that can be made to look incredibly creepy if you glue their arms and heads on at weird angles.

Managed to make one chew on its shield :smallamused:

The moldlines are almost invisible on them. Which hopefully doesn't mean that they're invisible when you're cleaning them but show up after undercoating.

[dsmiles]

Corsair:Awesome! What did you make the wings out of, plasticard?

[Justyn]

I actually have a chess set in Alabaster.
It is a nice texture with interesting patterning and can be produced in various colours. That said I'm uncertain how one would go about making something appear Alabaster instead of marble.

It would depend ENTIRELY on what you want the alabaster to look like: "alabaster" isn't actually a mineral, but rather a term that can refer to ether hydrous calcium sulfide, gypsum, or calcium carbonate, calcite.

Given that you've said you don't want it to look like marble, IE, calcium carbonate, I'd go with the gypsum version, so, at the base, I'd say just go over what you want to paint as alabaster in Skull White (to use GW paints), and then cover the alabaster bits in a gloss varnish to give it that characteristic translucence.

To give an example on how to give it a different color, say, slightly brownish yellow (http://photography.nationalgeographic.com/staticfiles/NGS/Shared/StaticFiles/Photography/Images/POD/a/alabaster-statues-515649-sw.jpg), I would say use a 2:1 mix of Skull White to Bubonic Brown, and then cover it with a gloss varnish.

[Ninjaman]

These new tomb guard still aren't what I want from the tomb kings army. Robotic disciplined legions of souless killers. Instead they're shambling horrors that can be made to look incredibly creepy if you glue their arms and heads on at weird angles.

Managed to make one chew on its shield :smallamused:

The moldlines are almost invisible on them. Which hopefully doesn't mean that they're invisible when you're cleaning them but show up after undercoating.

A lot of the rules ain´t as good as we thought either.

[Zorg]

Awesome! What did you make the wings out of, plasticard?

Nothing so high tech ;)

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zhVWrBjL3gE/TcWfN2hJosI/AAAAAAAABA8/1AQShCFpKss/s320/Cors03.jpg

[Ninjaman]

Nothing so high tech ;)

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zhVWrBjL3gE/TcWfN2hJosI/AAAAAAAABA8/1AQShCFpKss/s320/Cors03.jpg

Awesome :smallcool:

[Zorg]

The simple solution is usually the best :smallsmile: also very cheap - $2 for two A4 sheets.

[Ninja Chocobo]

The simple solution is usually the best :smallsmile: also very cheap - $2 for two A4 sheets.

That's significantly cheaper than plasticard. How does it handle comparatively?

[Justyn]

So, for the past few days I've been working on a Terminator equipped with a heavy flamer and a chainfist, and while it's not completely done (I still need to do the highlighting on the last part of the flamer and the glow effects for the fire and chainfist... and looking at the picture, I might need to redo the eyes yet again), I feel comfortable showing it off.

http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l488/Justyn_Steinke/Warhammer%2040k/IMG_1221.jpg

I'll post a full 360 of it when it's 100%.

[Zorg]

That's significantly cheaper than plasticard. How does it handle comparatively?

Not as well - it doesn't take paint, inks or washes. It might if I soaked it in cleaner or the like, but I haven't tried that (or spraypaint).
It glues fine with superglue though.

[Dark Faun]

Nice painting Justyn, though I'd say the yellow of the chainblade's hazard markings is too dark and that the stripes should perhaps be less numerous and larger.

[Ninja Chocobo]

Not as well - it doesn't take paint, inks or washes. It might if I soaked it in cleaner or the like, but I haven't tried that (or spraypaint).
It glues fine with superglue though.

Well I'd need to prime it first.
I meant in terms of structure, rigidity, that sort of thing.

[Ichneumon]

While unpacking a new dvd-player, I came across this small piece of packaging and it seemed like the perfect piece of Warhammer 40k terrain. It has some nice corners and different layers so models can stand on different heights. I think it can offer some nice angles for line of sight and cover. The difficulty though is deciding what it could be and painting it appropriately.

http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/5357/img0589kz.jpghttp://img827.imageshack.us/img827/770/img0590hg.jpg
http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/6060/img0591q.jpghttp://img821.imageshack.us/img821/3314/img0592um.jpg
http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/592/img0594t.jpg


I'm thinking of maybe turning it into some kind of fortress, bastion or bunker of some kind. Maybe adding a door or two, painting the piece in shades of grey and brown. Any ideas? The odd shape makes it difficult to determine what purpose such a structure could have though. An other option might be some kind of ancient temple, ziggurat type of thing, but I don't think that's much appropriate for a 40k game.

[Eldan]

Actually, to me, it immediately said "Necron". Make it black and metal, put some circuit-like green lines on it and you get a Dawn of War necron building.

[Dark Faun]

It's actually appropriate for a 40K game, though less... expected. There are many feudal worlds in the galaxy and they do get attacked all the time from times to times. It could also belong to people who like crosses. Or to chaos. If the design is odd or hurts eyes, it's chaos!

[dsmiles]

Actually, to me, it immediately said "Necron". Make it black and metal, put some circuit-like green lines on it and you get a Dawn of War necron building.I agree. It's very necron-ish.

[Dark Faun]

I would agree, if it was not for the painfully obvious huge cross of doom on the thing. I admittedly know little about Necrons other than spamming pariahs in Dawn of War, but I don't recall a thing for crosses.

[Gruffard]

I find the pressed cardboard ends make good buildings with a little creativity. As for what type of building. I can see your bunker idea. I don't think it needs to be Necron, but it probably can be converted to them faster then some other factions.

If you want to add some of your extra guns and bits, and some creative painting you can make it look good for whatever faction you play.

[Tarinaky]

To me, it looks like a Shrine. With a big brazier in the centre for burnt offerings to be made to the Emperor, one of the saints or one of the heathen Chaos powers.

Paint it a simple clay-brick brown.

[Science Officer]

This weekend I finished my IoB Rat Ogres.
These are the first models I've done with care, all the clan rats I just base-coated and washed.

I think the turned out very well.
My photography is terrible as usual, but I'd rather not post pictures than learn to do it better. *shrug*

First One Front
http://i.imgur.com/mwQrJ.jpg

First One Back
http://i.imgur.com/ry6TJ.jpg

Second One Front
http://i.imgur.com/C5Qj8.jpg

Second One Back
http://i.imgur.com/LDNpv.jpg

[Incomp]

Thing looks like a big space marine bunker to me. I would cut some horizontal slits, like on a real bunker, and maybe add some of those silly heavy bolters sticking out of windows like you see on the Apocalypse terrain.

[Eldan]

Hm. New idea on the Bone Giant:

Lower body of a Trygon. (http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat440300a&prodId=prod340015a) Does anyone have an idea how the sizes would compare? The general idea, then, would be to cover up most of the holes and most tyranid-ish parts with Green Stuff or fitting bits.

[Ninjaman]

Hm. New idea on the Bone Giant:

Lower body of a Trygon. (http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat440300a&prodId=prod340015a) Does anyone have an idea how the sizes would compare? The general idea, then, would be to cover up most of the holes and most tyranid-ish parts with Green Stuff or fitting bits.

too big. I play tyranids.

[Winterwind]

This weekend I finished my IoB Rat Ogres.
These are the first models I've done with care, all the clan rats I just base-coated and washed.

I think the turned out very well.
My photography is terrible as usual, but I'd rather not post pictures than learn to do it better. *shrug*

First One Front
http://i.imgur.com/mwQrJ.jpg

First One Back
http://i.imgur.com/ry6TJ.jpg

Second One Front
http://i.imgur.com/C5Qj8.jpg

Second One Back
http://i.imgur.com/LDNpv.jpgLooking good! And appropriately terrifying, too. :smallsmile:


Hm. New idea on the Bone Giant:

Lower body of a Trygon. (http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat440300a&prodId=prod340015a) Does anyone have an idea how the sizes would compare? The general idea, then, would be to cover up most of the holes and most tyranid-ish parts with Green Stuff or fitting bits.Having once put a Trygon together (I don't play Tyranids, but made one for a friend at one point)... I think it might actually fit quite well. The Sphinx's torse might be a tad wider than what usually goes on a Trygon's body, but not to the point where it wouldn't work anymore, I think.

[Gruffard]

This weekend I finished my IoB Rat Ogres.
These are the first models I've done with care, all the clan rats I just base-coated and washed.

I think the turned out very well.
My photography is terrible as usual, but I'd rather not post pictures than learn to do it better. *shrug*

First One Front
http://i.imgur.com/mwQrJ.jpg

First One Back
http://i.imgur.com/ry6TJ.jpg

Second One Front
http://i.imgur.com/C5Qj8.jpg

Second One Back
http://i.imgur.com/LDNpv.jpg

You might want to try to get better lighting on the second rat ogre, but from what I could see, I like. Might want to dry brush/highlight the stitches. Found that it makes the unit pop some more.

Overall, quite impressive for a first serious attempt. :smallbiggrin:

[Dark Faun]

Good painting indeed. My only advice would be to paint their eyes. Of course, this comes from someone who hasn't yet managed to paint the eyes the same box' high elves. :smalltongue:

[Eldan]

Putting some dark or reddish wash or ink in the eyes should be enough. It's what I do. Mostly, because I can't do a spot of paint small enough not to paint half the face.

[Dark Faun]

I do the same thing, but it doesn't give the same feeling as actually painting their eyes (I wanted to paint them entirely black). It's not because I can't do a small enough spot though; my hands shake terribly. I can paint their teeth just fine.

[Winterwind]

While we're on the subject of painting really, really fine things, does anybody have advice on how to paint very thin lines? I'd like to make some inscriptions on the Grey Knights I'm currently working on, and even the finest brush I have leaves lines thicker than what I'd like; I tried taking a needle and sticking its tip in paint, but that just makes a big fat drop hang at the needle's tip, leaving huge blotches, and if I try to brush that drop off the needle doesn't leave any trace on the model at all anymore, so... yeah. What can a person that does have the luck of having steady hands and wants to paint something really, really fine and small do to accomplish that?

[Dark Faun]

People around me (who admittedly don't paint models themselves) always suggested toothpicks.

[Ninjaman]

People around me (who admittedly don't paint models themselves) always suggested toothpicks.

I just paint them, even with pupils on wardancers it ain´t that hard.

[Tarinaky]

I tried taking a needle and sticking its tip in paint, but that just makes a big fat drop hang at the needle's tip, leaving huge blotches, and if I try to brush that drop off the needle doesn't leave any trace on the model at all anymore, so...

You need to play around with the consistency of the paint to reduce the viscosity for that to work. Unfortunately I have no idea what mix of Pigment/Solvent/Water would work well.

[Gruffard]

If it is a raised detail, painting kindof like dry brushing can work. If you need to do it free hand toothpicks can work, but I find ultra fine sharpies can work better, and its easy work for when you need to do something like a unit or block of droops. Just note the color might not be what shows on paper if the backdrop isn't light/white.

Also an ink well pen can work too, dipped in paint (might need to water it down some) NOTE: if you don't clean the tip you will ruin it. This allows it to hold more paint then a toothpick. This is the preferred method for unique things, looks better then the sharpy, but takes more time.

[Science Officer]

Ooh yeah, eyes. Keep forgetting about those things. :smallredface:
I also have forty blind clanrats... (sounds like a nursery rhyme...)

I really wanted to do the stitches, but they are sooo tiny. I might try toothpicks or sharpies or something.
Thanks for the ideas and kind words.

[Eldan]

Toothpicks work, but you need to change them often. I use them for most details, they don't flop around like small brushes do when my hands shake.

[dsmiles]

While we're on the subject of painting really, really fine things, does anybody have advice on how to paint very thin lines? I'd like to make some inscriptions on the Grey Knights I'm currently working on, and even the finest brush I have leaves lines thicker than what I'd like; I tried taking a needle and sticking its tip in paint, but that just makes a big fat drop hang at the needle's tip, leaving huge blotches, and if I try to brush that drop off the needle doesn't leave any trace on the model at all anymore, so... yeah. What can a person that does have the luck of having steady hands and wants to paint something really, really fine and small do to accomplish that?

Depends on the size of the model. You can usually get away with some Scotch brand blue masking tape. That's what I use.

[Inquisitor D]

You guys seem to know a good bit about whats out there as far as model rangers, and I figured I would bring my question here first.

I run an all female guard regiment and try to represent the characters I counts-as somewhat like the original. Do you guys know any model I could conceivably count as Creed? Preferably someone with a greatcoat/cigar/dual pistols. Even just one or two of those would probably make it look close enough, provided she looks somewhat guard officer-y.

[Zorg]

Khurasan's "Genocidal Overlord (http://khurasanminiatures.tripod.com/28mmscifi.html)" could work well, or at least for a commisar:

http://khurasanminiatures.tripod.com/genocidal-overlord.jpg


Also Pulp Miniatures "She-Wolves (http://www.pulpfigures.com/cat.php?range=Wierd%20Menace&catalog=PWM&custID=581731292171301318498)" are a possibility:

http://www.pulpfigures.com/catalog/pwm36.jpg

http://www.pulpfigures.com/catalog/pwm2.jpg


-


For painting thin lines or other finescale work I find having a damp brush is often key, as well as the paint slightly thinned. I also find that using a large size brush with a good tip is sometimes better than using a smaller brush. For instance I paint eyes on my dudes and dudettes using a GW detail brush, rather than the fine detail, and have used a 000 size in the past for such things.

[Cheesegear]

Hello,

Specifically, this post is aimed at Australians.
What kind of dremmel do you use? Also, how much did it cost? Tools, like a few other things, are one of those 'get what you pay for' kind of objects.

I've got my Gabriel Seth and I need to take out his head. Because Marines wear helmets (I know, if he wears a helmet, he wont be as recognizable as Captain Garen, leader of the Dauntless Vanguard).

Random crap.
In other news, I'm a git. I'm starting my Blood Dragons/Knights of Blood Marines, and, guess what, due to heraldric tradition, I can leave symbols on special character's kneepads (Such as Seth's Spin-To-Win emblem). Shoulder Pads, and other large, easily-removable symbols will be filed off to be replaced with Dragons.

I'm going to be using Kor'Sarro, chucking a massive axe on him (the one from the Sanguinary Guard, otherwise known as the Black Cleaver), and, he'll be used as Kor'Sarro or Sicarius. Kor'Sarro is the base-model. His name shall be Olaf, and his symbol shall be the Lightning Bolt (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5ML5_rCzYo). He shall jungle and Outflank*.
Unfortunately, the pose is all wrong for me to magnetise a Jump Pack to him and use him as Astorath as well.

In other, other news. I have a camera now. Pics up when I have them.

*No, I'm fully serious. Prince Jarvan, Examplar as The Sanguinor, Exemplar. Garen, Captain of the Vanguard (first company). These LoL references really do write themselves.

[Winterwind]

Alright, thanks for the advice, everyone. I'll give all of your suggestions a try. :smallsmile:

[CreganTur]

When I did the inscriptions on my Grey Knights I mixed up some thinned black with some flow improver added in- this make the paint thin enough to easily paint with a brush. I used one of my sable brushes that had a very well defined tip and used that.

[Zorg]

Specifically, this post is aimed at Australians.
What kind of dremmel do you use? Also, how much did it cost? Tools, like a few other things, are one of those 'get what you pay for' kind of objects.

I've got a 'Dremel Stylus' - it's a cordless model so it doesn't attach to things like the router frame or drill press module, but it still accepts all the bits. I went cordless as it's a lot simpler to use with minis and I don't have to keep unplugging and re-plugging everywhere.

Most Dremels will run you around $100 at Bunnings (mine was $99), but for 40k purposes you'll need to get some other bits and bobs, so it'll be closer to a $200 outlay at first.

First up is you'll need a pack of cut-off wheels, as the basic kit the tool comes with doesn't have any; a small collet (the part that grips the bit), as you only get large ones so you won't grip the tiny drill bits you'll likely be using for pinning and possibly even the chuck attachment.

If you don't have it already get some safety gear (http://collegiatitanica.blogspot.com/2011/04/safety-gear-dremel-and-airbrushing.html), eye protection and respirator - I also wear gloves. The plastic and metal in kits and Forge World's resin are non-toxic, but it's still not good to be breating in regardless.


More Phantom:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RIdALZGiu-k/TclXTubCK8I/AAAAAAAABBQ/wqejRBw73WU/s1600/Phan54.jpg

Just need to ink the armour recesses and finish her base (plus the inevitable touchups)

[dsmiles]

More Phantom:
:eek:

That's AWESOME!!!!

[Cheesegear]

I've got a 'Dremel Stylus' - it's a cordless model so it doesn't attach to things like the router frame or drill press module, but it still accepts all the bits. I went cordless as it's a lot simpler to use with minis and I don't have to keep unplugging and re-plugging everywhere.

Most Dremels will run you around $100 at Bunnings (mine was $99), but for 40k purposes you'll need to get some other bits and bobs, so it'll be closer to a $200 outlay at first.

First up is you'll need a pack of cut-off wheels, as the basic kit the tool comes with doesn't have any; a small collet (the part that grips the bit), as you only get large ones so you won't grip the tiny drill bits you'll likely be using for pinning and possibly even the chuck attachment.

If you don't have it already get some safety gear (http://collegiatitanica.blogspot.com/2011/04/safety-gear-dremel-and-airbrushing.html), eye protection and respirator - I also wear gloves. The plastic and metal in kits and Forge World's resin are non-toxic, but it's still not good to be breating in regardless.

<3 Bunnings. It's almost like a trip to GW given the amount of cool stuff I can buy.

Thanks for the help Zorg.

[dsmiles]

w00t! More minis done. All Legion.
Scather and Crew:http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/10/219803_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/10/219804_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
Spawning Vessel Acolyths:http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/10/219807_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/10/219808_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
Hex Hunters:http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/10/219809_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/10/219810_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
Lylyth:http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/10/219805_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/10/219806_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
Seraph:http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/10/219800_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/10/219801_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/10/219802_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
Carnivean:http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/10/219797_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/10/219798_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/10/219799_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
I was really limited on posing options, here. I could only get the arms to stay on like this. :smallannoyed:
Next up: Bayal, Angelius, and the rest of this Hex Hunter unit.

EDIT: Also, I like P3's Radiant Platinum WAY better than Citadel's Mithril silver. :smallbiggrin:

[Justyn]

So, I've gotten that Terminator I posted earlier done, I'll post the few pics I took of it after I flocked and lighted the base, but I'll also provide a link to the gallery that has a 360 view of him, but just not the base (http://s1120.photobucket.com/albums/l488/Justyn_Steinke/Warhammer%2040k/Finished%20Terminator/).

http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l488/Justyn_Steinke/Warhammer%2040k/Finished%20Terminator/IMG_1260.jpg?t=1305069272
http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l488/Justyn_Steinke/Warhammer%2040k/Finished%20Terminator/IMG_1261.jpg?t=1305068951
http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l488/Justyn_Steinke/Warhammer%2040k/Finished%20Terminator/IMG_1262.jpg?t=1305069532

[dsmiles]

Zorg, I think you posted it before, with all those charts and links for Citadel paints, but...

Quick question (directed at the thread in general):

What base color would be best for making Asurmen Blue? Necron Abyss or Regal Blue?

[Justyn]

Zorg, I think you posted it before, with all those charts and links for Citadel paints, but...

Quick question (directed at the thread in general):

What base color would be best for making Asurmen Blue? Necron Abyss or Regal Blue?

Making Asurman Blue? Well, really, the best way to get Asurman Blue is to just buy some, but Regal Blue watered down to a wash consistency (that would be about 3:1 water to paint, by my approximation) would be the best, because foundation paints aren't that great for washing; they're too opaque. Plus, Necron Abyss has a bit of an indigo tint to it, whereas Asurman Blue and Regal Blue are both... well... blue.

[dsmiles]

Making Asurman Blue? Well, really, the best way to get Asurman Blue is to just buy some, but Regal Blue watered down to a wash consistency (that would be about 3:1 water to paint, by my approximation) would be the best, because foundation paints aren't that great for washing; they're too opaque. Plus, Necron Abyss has a bit of an indigo tint to it, whereas Asurman Blue and Regal Blue are both... well... blue.Yeah, I realize that the best solution would be to go buy some, but I'm in a pinch, and by the time I get to the gaming store, it'll be closed. So, Regal Blue, eh? I'll give it a shot.

[Ninjaman]

w00t! More minis done. All Legion.
Scather and Crew:http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/10/219803_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/10/219804_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
Spawning Vessel Acolyths:http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/10/219807_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/10/219808_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
Hex Hunters:http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/10/219809_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/10/219810_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
Lylyth:http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/10/219805_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/10/219806_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
Seraph:http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/10/219800_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/10/219801_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/10/219802_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
Carnivean:http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/10/219797_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/10/219798_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/10/219799_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
I was really limited on posing options, here. I could only get the arms to stay on like this. :smallannoyed:Next up: Bayal, Angelius, and the rest of this Hex Hunter unit.

EDIT: Also, I like P3's Radiant Platinum WAY better than Citadel's Mithril silver. :smallbiggrin:

some of your stuff looks quite flat, especially the dark blue coats, maby try to use layering, or extreme highlights.

[Gruffard]

@dsmiles: What are you using to get the snow layered that high? My normal baking soda/salt mixture doesn't layer that high and still look fluffy.

[dsmiles]

@dsmiles: What are you using to get the snow layered that high? My normal baking soda/salt mixture doesn't layer that high and still look fluffy.Snow flock. I don't know the brand (since I'm now at work), but it was $12.95 for a big thing of it (you know, one of the big clear plastic containers with the red top, like a ginormous spice shaker). On the 40mm+ bases, I'm putting some modeling putty to build up the base (standard Testor's gray putty, painted Space Wolf Grey), and I'm using standard Locktite to glue the flock to the putty.
some of your stuff looks quite flat, especially the dark blue coats, maby try to use layering, or extreme highlights.Really, that's just in the pictures. I have a crap camera that I don't know how to use (I just push the button). Hell, I only learned about 'macro' mode two sets of pictures ago (the whites were coming out much more yellow before). :smalltongue: IRL, they have a bit more depth. The wash makes the whole thing darker, but I try to puddle it in the folds of the robes for extra dark evilness.

[Winterwind]

w00t! More minis done. All Legion.Ooooh... magnificent. I especially like the details on the armour of the Hex Hunters and Lylyth. :smallsmile:
It also probably helps that blue is my favourite colour. :smallredface:

[Ninjaman]

Really, that's just in the pictures. I have a crap camera that I don't know how to use (I just push the button). Hell, I only learned about 'macro' mode two sets of pictures ago (the whites were coming out much more yellow before). :smalltongue: IRL, they have a bit more depth. The wash makes the whole thing darker, but I try to puddle it in the folds of the robes for extra dark evilness.

Well okay.

[Gruffard]

Snow flock. I don't know the brand (since I'm now at work), but it was $12.95 for a big thing of it (you know, one of the big clear plastic containers with the red top, like a ginormous spice shaker). On the 40mm+ bases, I'm putting some modeling putty to build up the base (standard Testor's gray putty, painted Space Wolf Grey), and I'm using standard Locktite to glue the flock to the putty.
Thanks. I think I will have to look for the equiv of it the next time I am at the Hobby shop.

[CreganTur]

@zorg
looking very nice!

@dsmiles
those guys look much better than your mice- did you change hwo you thin your paints?

[dsmiles]

@dsmiles
those guys look much better than your mice- did you change hwo you thin your paints?No, but I think the problem with the mice was: I laid on the primer too thick. :smallredface:

EDIT: @WW: Wait till you see Bayal, Hound of Everblight. I think he came out way better than either Lylyth or the hex hunters. Like I said a little earlier: I like P3's Radiant Platinum way better than Citadel's Mithril Silver.

[Zorg]

So, I've gotten that Terminator I posted earlier done, I'll post the few pics I took of it after I flocked and lighted the base, but I'll also provide a link to the gallery that has a 360 view of him, but just not the base (http://s1120.photobucket.com/albums/l488/Justyn_Steinke/Warhammer%2040k/Finished%20Terminator/).



He'd benefit alot from starting with a darker shade, or inking the recesses. As is he's very flat aside from the highlights, so the recesses are blending in too much.
If you either gave him a blue wash or started with a base colour of Regal Blue and put Ultramarines Blue over that, leaving the Regal showing in the recesses (either being careful or through heavy drybrushing) he'd pop a whole lot more, especially areas around the head and hands.

I like having a burning flamer on him.



w00t! More minis done. All Legion.

The silver looks much better :)

[dsmiles]

Thanks. I think I will have to look for the equiv of it the next time I am at the Hobby shop.
I'm home now, it's Woodland Scenics brand Soft Flake Snow (SN140) (http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/category/SoftFlakeSnow).

@Zorg: Thanks. :smallsmile:

[Gruffard]

I'm home now, it's Woodland Scenics brand Soft Flake Snow (SN140) (http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/category/SoftFlakeSnow).

@Zorg: Thanks. :smallsmile:

Cool, Dan's Crafts and Things and Hobby Lobby both have it. Will have to grab some this weekend.

[Ninja Chocobo]

Really, that's just in the pictures. I have a crap camera that I don't know how to use (I just push the button). Hell, I only learned about 'macro' mode two sets of pictures ago (the whites were coming out much more yellow before). :smalltongue: IRL, they have a bit more depth. The wash makes the whole thing darker, but I try to puddle it in the folds of the robes for extra dark evilness.

Have you considered...highlighting?

[dsmiles]

Have you considered...highlighting?

I've done it on a few minis, and apparently, my blending skills suck. I can't blend up to a highlight to save my life, so I just slap on a wash and call it a day.

[CreganTur]

To be honest highlighting and blending are 2 completely different skills You can continue to highlight withour perfect blending- you see this a lot on 40k minis, especially space marines with a lot of edge highlighting. If it looks good on the table and you're happy with it, then keep adding your highlights and work developing your blending skills. Highlights can add a lot to a mini.

Blending is a really hard skill to master. There are also a lot of ways to get this effect. One of the simplest is known as feathering. As an example, say that you have a base color and a highlight next to each other in a straight line. With feathering, you dray tiny lines perpendicular between the two colors where they meet. This tricks the eye into seeing the colors blending together because of the hash mark effect. A really stark example fo this is pencil shading in black and white comics. This is generally the easiest type of blending for someone to start with.

Next there's wet blending. This is where you put down one color, then quickly come in with the next color and blend the 2 colors togehter while they're both still wet where they meet. This can give mixed results, but can also give really cool effects for cloth.

Another style of blending is very similiar to glazing- where you come in with thinned paints and build up translucent layers of different colors over your base coat to force the color change. A lot of times you'll also see this where the painter lays down 2 clors next to each other and then glazes the highlight color from the darker color into the highlight to make the transition more seamless.

[Zorg]

I've done it on a few minis, and apparently, my blending skills suck. I can't blend up to a highlight to save my life, so I just slap on a wash and call it a day.

Don't blend - drybrush! It's what I do most of the time.


Just about finished my Farseer:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/FarS04.jpg

[Tome]

Ooh, that is awesome.

Though something about the colour scheme and pigtails makes me think "perky goth"?

[Closet_Skeleton]

Ooh, that is awesome.

Though something about the colour scheme and pigtails makes me think "perky goth"?

That's a dark eldar head that's painted green or pink in bits of the codex, so its probably the least perky goth use of that head.


Don't blend - drybrush! It's what I do most of the time.



Or just line-highlight. Its a space marine after all.

[Chumbaniya]

I should have some pictures up tomorrow once my girlfriend has charged her camera batteries. I've not had the chance to do much painting this week - just some highlighting of the metal on the kan I'd already done most of and doing the metal basecoat and wash on the second kan along with some work on its base. I've tried painting some stone slabs freehand onto the second kan's base and they look pretty good - the idea is that the kan's standing on a stone floor now mostly covered by gravelly mud, so I painted the stone first and then put sand around the outside. I think it'll look good when I've painted and drybrushed the sand.

[dsmiles]

So I've started on my Nightmare Knight Skeryth Issyen (Fane Knight Skeryth Issyen). Photos when he gets a bit closer to completion. Armor's almost done, the horse's hair is almost done, cloth, leather, and flames are started.

My Nightmare Riders (Dawnguard Destors) are glued to their bases, but not started yet.

[Ninjaman]

Or just line-highlight. Its a space marine after all.

Or layering?

[Gruffard]

Highlighting is easier, I can only seem to get layering to work with certain colors, Some lighter colors like "Ice Blue" I can't seem to layer well at all. :smallmad:

[Closet_Skeleton]

I just drybrushed my pale blues. Looks really dusty but that's fine if the whole army is like that.

[dsmiles]

Ok, a couple of more minis. None of these are varnished yet.
Hex Hunters:http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/14/221151_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpgOops, looks like I forgot to paint their eyes. :smallredface:
Angelius:http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/14/221148_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/14/221149_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/14/221150_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
Bayal, Hound of Everblight:http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/14/221152_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/14/221153_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/14/221154_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
Nightmare (Fane) Knight Skeryth Issyen (Dismounted):http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/14/221158_md-Retribution%2C%20Scyrah%2C%20Steampunk%2C%20Warmac hine%2C%20Wm.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/14/221159_md-Retribution%2C%20Scyrah%2C%20Steampunk%2C%20Warmac hine%2C%20Wm.jpg
Special thanks to Cregan Tur on the conversion of the heavy warhorse into a nightmare, for this next one. :smallbiggrin: I'm not entirely sure I'm done with this one yet. I want to put some reflections from the firelight on his armor, but I'm having trouble figuring out object source lighting. :smallannoyed: (But I do have glow-in-the-dark flames! :smalltongue:)
Nightmare (Fane) Knight Skeryth Issyen (Mounted):http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/14/221160_md-Retribution%2C%20Scyrah%2C%20Steampunk%2C%20Warmac hine%2C%20Wm.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/14/221163_md-Retribution%2C%20Scyrah%2C%20Steampunk%2C%20Warmac hine%2C%20Wm.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/14/221161_md-Retribution%2C%20Scyrah%2C%20Steampunk%2C%20Warmac hine%2C%20Wm.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/14/221162_md-Retribution%2C%20Scyrah%2C%20Steampunk%2C%20Warmac hine%2C%20Wm.jpg

[Justyn]

Quick question: what colors should I mix to get tyrian purple?

Adendum: or at least a close approximation thereof.

[Closet_Skeleton]

I got my sphinx with golden armour and all the skulls picked out in dark angels green and it looks pretty awesome apart from the stone bits, which are so far a failed attempt at sandstone ruined by mixing in bleached bone into the highlights :smallfrown:

[Zorg]

More Corsairs:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/Cors04.jpg

Fancy pic:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/Cors05.jpg

The rest are painted, but cutting and fitting the wings is a very time consuming process, so I've just done these ones so far.

[dsmiles]

More Corsairs:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/Cors04.jpg

Fancy pic:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/Cors05.jpg

The rest are painted, but cutting and fitting the wings is a very time consuming process, so I've just done these ones so far.
Those look awesome, Zorg. I can't wait to see the rest of the TRONdar.

[Zorg]

Those look awesome, Zorg. I can't wait to see the rest of the TRONdar.

Thanks mate, but it might be a while - the recent price shenanigans and whatnot have soured me on GW for the moment, but I'm sure that'll change once I get my hands on the scourges :smallwink:

[dsmiles]

Thanks mate, but it might be a while - the recent price shenanigans and whatnot have soured me on GW for the moment, but I'm sure that'll change once I get my hands on the scourges :smallwink:By the way, that "Fancy Pic" may just become my wallpaper.

EDIT: More minis:

Another Ghost Sniper:http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/16/222371_md-Retribution%2C%20Scyrah%2C%20Steampunk%2C%20Warmac hine%2C%20Wm.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/16/222372_md-Retribution%2C%20Scyrah%2C%20Steampunk%2C%20Warmac hine%2C%20Wm.jpgNightmare Rider (Dawnguard Destor):http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/16/222368_md-Retribution%2C%20Scyrah%2C%20Steampunk%2C%20Warmac hine%2C%20Wm.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/16/222369_md-Retribution%2C%20Scyrah%2C%20Steampunk%2C%20Warmac hine%2C%20Wm.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/16/222370_md-Retribution%2C%20Scyrah%2C%20Steampunk%2C%20Warmac hine%2C%20Wm.jpgAbsylonia, Terror of Everblight:http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/16/222373_md-Retribution%2C%20Scyrah%2C%20Steampunk%2C%20Warmac hine%2C%20Wm.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/16/222374_md-Retribution%2C%20Scyrah%2C%20Steampunk%2C%20Warmac hine%2C%20Wm.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/16/222375_md-Retribution%2C%20Scyrah%2C%20Steampunk%2C%20Warmac hine%2C%20Wm.jpgTyphon:http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/16/222376_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/16/222377_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/16/222379_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/16/222378_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg

[CreganTur]

For my first entry in the Darksword painting contest over at WAMP I've decided to work on Sansa Stark. It's a great little sculpt and I'm planning on incorporating her into a little winter dio scene. So far the skin and her cloak are the only things I would call done.

Her skin was a really big challenge for me because I wanted her to be pale but lovely. I worked a lot of layers into it and a few different colored glazes. Her outer cloak I worked down to a red/purple tint in the shadows to give it the appearance of a rich fabric, which is also why I worked the highlights and folded edges up so high.

Believe it or not her hair is nothing more than 2 thinned coats of VGC Dark Fleshtone over white primer. It's not even close to done, but I'm just surprised at the highlights peeking through from the primer. I guess that shows what proper thinning can do!

http://www.stonetowerminiatures.com/albums/sansa/sansa1.jpg

I also got another commission from the same client: this time it's to work on the command units for his army. This pic shows all the units, except that there are a total of 8 psykers.

This is just the minis after the quick shade dried and I hit them with varnish. I'll be doing all the highlights next. There are also a few places where the QS got wierd and blotchy on a couple faces, so that'll add a little more cleanup time.

My plan is to add in some extra color with washes before doing the highlights. I've actually already done that with the Commassar- his sash was hit with some Asureman Blue and his uniform was much lighter than you see now. I used Adeptus Battlegrey- the QS knocked it down a good bit, but 2 washes of Babab Black brought it to this level.

http://www.stonetowerminiatures.com/Albums/Commissions/ImperialGuard/ig22.jpg

[Ninja Chocobo]

I'm planning on incorporating her into a dio scene.

When I realised what this meant, it was nowhere near as awesome as I first thought. (http://youtubedoubler.com/Bwd)

[Ninjaman]

When I realised what this meant, it was nowhere near as awesome as I first thought. (http://www.youtubedoubler.com/?video1=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3 D64coD-rx9sk&start1=&video2=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.chttp%3A%2F%2Fwww. youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D_CNrNQjWGHI%26feature%3D relatedom%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DetU_wtP5Pck&start2=&authorName=Over+30)

I think link is broken.

[Ninja Chocobo]

I think link is broken.

This (http://youtubedoubler.com/Bwd) ought to work better. Edited.

[CreganTur]

@dsmiles
I really like your flame effects- and I also love that you painted them correctly- moving from yellow to red. You've been pumping out a lot of work recently.

[Ninjaman]

This (http://youtubedoubler.com/Bwd) ought to work better. Edited.

Stel just show some "image markers" but not actual images.

[Borgh]

todays blog post (http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/blogPost.jsp?aId=16500007a) is rather pretty, its Dark Trondar actually :smallwink:

I like phil kelly more and more.

[dsmiles]

@dsmiles
I really like your flame effects- and I also love that you painted them correctly- moving from yellow to red. You've been pumping out a lot of work recently.Thanks. That means a lot to me. :smallsmile:
I did my homework on fire before I started painting, and I like the blending effect that comes from the glazing I did with the glow-in-the-dark orange paint on there. (Granted, it glows green, but the paint is orange, and that's all that matters. :smalltongue:)

As far as pumping out a lot of minis, with my wife visiting family, I have nothing but time on my hands, and I've started using a "production line" technique for minis that have similar paint jobs.

[Renegade Paladin]

Quick question before I complain to Games Workshop's customer service. Is the Catachan infantry squad box supposed to contain two copies of the same sprue (that is, two sergeants, two flamers, two vox-casters, in all ways two identical sprues) or did someone pack the one I bought wrong? I'm guessing it's wrong because there's also two instruction sheets and no transfers, but I want to make sure.

[Borgh]

the batallion contains four of those sprues IIRC so i think its correct.

[Renegade Paladin]

the batallion contains four of those sprues IIRC so i think its correct.
Okay. That's a little awkward for making a legally outfitted squad, but whatever. I'm going to get a Marine Scout's heavy bolter from somewhere and do a cheap knock-off of Sergeant Harker (55 points for a Relentless heavy bolter with FNP, Infiltrate, Stealth, and Move Through Cover? Yes please!) anyway, so I was bound to have wasted sergeant bits no matter what I did. :smalltongue: Thanks for the help.

[Jair Barik]

So what does anyone know about the finecast things then?

So far I know the following.
-Metal isn't entirely going away but lots of the metal models will be replaced with resin.
-The resin is different to that used by FW. It doesn't need washing, is non toxic and not very fragile (described as 'bouncy')
-The resin 'blisters' will be a sort of reddy orange colour and will feature a colour pic of the mini on the frnt of the box so that you can actually see how it is supposed to look fully assembled.
-Some of the boxes will contain multiple models where before they only contained one.

Also...
-New Homonculi model in the near future, looks pretty cool. New Tomb Kings 'prince' model in the near future, the model in question is a prince transforming into a scarab swarm of some sort.

[Gruffard]

It makes sense why then are switching mold materials. Oil has just climbed in prices in the last few years and oil based plastics (most of their line) will just be forced to get more expensive. So they made a new formula for their casts, gave it a fancy name.

I doubt the new casting material is going to cause any problems or be less quality. I hope they don't alienate peeps to much with their new price increases with no changes being visible in the foreseeable future.

[Zorg]

By the way, that "Fancy Pic" may just become my wallpaper.

:smallredface:


EDIT: More minis:

You are a painting machine :smallbiggrin: As said, nice flames.




todays blog post (http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/blogPost.jsp?aId=16500007a) is rather pretty, its Dark Trondar actually :smallwink:

I like phil kelly more and more.

Stealing my ideas... grumble grumble... :smallamused:



Cregan, Sansa's looking good, the cloak is a lovely shade and texture. Her skin tone is great, but the lines on her face are very shadowed so she looks older than I think the character is meant to be. I mean it looks fine, but if the contest is to paint the characters rather than the minis (if you get what I mean) it might count against you.

[dsmiles]

You are a painting machine :smallbiggrin: As said, nice flames.Thanks, that means a lot, Zorg. :smallsmile:
I guess that makes my flame-painting technique a valid scientific principle, since I have validation from two of the best mini-painters I know. :smallwink:

[Justyn]

http://www.stonetowerminiatures.com/Albums/Commissions/ImperialGuard/ig22.jpg

The metals on those look good; are those NMM techniques there, or just metallic paints?

[Closet_Skeleton]

Also...
-New Homonculi model in the near future, looks pretty cool. New Tomb Kings 'prince' model in the near future, the model in question is a prince transforming into a scarab swarm of some sort.

That would be Prince Apophas. He's supposed to just be a skull and a bunch of scarabs.

[Jair Barik]

Model looked interesting. The skull looked a bit crazy though, lacking the *ahem* 'sophistication' of some of the other Tomb Kings instead opting for an expression of manic evil.

[CreganTur]

@justyn
Thery're metallic paints, but the quick shade dulled them down a good bit. I'll be going over the highlights with other metallics as well. The gold is P3's Blighted gold, the darker steel is Vallejo Air Metallics Gun, and the lighter steel is VMA Steel.

[Ninjaman]

Also...
-New Homonculi model in the near future, looks pretty cool. New Tomb Kings 'prince' model in the near future, the model in question is a prince transforming into a scarab swarm of some sort.

As closet skeleton said that must be prince Apophas, in the army book they also show a necrotect and usabti with great bows, so they will properbly also be out soon. I also suspect a multipart plastic necrolith collossus/hierotitan to come out at some point.

[dsmiles]

@justyn
Thery're metallic paints, but the quick shade dulled them down a good bit. I'll be going over the highlights with other metallics as well. The gold is P3's Blighted gold, the darker steel is Vallejo Air Metallics Gun, and the lighter steel is VMA Steel.
I absolutely love Blighted Gold. It's quite possibly my favorite metallic paint. I haven had the opportunity to try any Vallejo paints, but I've heard that their metallics are even nicer than the P3 metallics.

[Gruffard]

@justyn
Thery're metallic paints, but the quick shade dulled them down a good bit. I'll be going over the highlights with other metallics as well. The gold is P3's Blighted gold, the darker steel is Vallejo Air Metallics Gun, and the lighter steel is VMA Steel.

Curious, do you use multiple brands of paints, because you like certain colors from each lines, or are you phasing yourself to certain brands? I like your works, and if in your opinion certain brands are better, I like to try them out.

As of now, I use Citadel Paints mostly, with P3 for metals and a select few colors unique to my army, and Citadel is mostly my main paint line cause it is always in stock at my FLGS and my first paint brand.

[dsmiles]

Curious, do you use multiple brands of paints, because you like certain colors from each lines, or are you phasing yourself to certain brands? I like your works, and if in your opinion certain brands are better, I like to try them out.

As of now, I use Citadel Paints mostly, with P3 for metals and a select few colors unique to my army, and Citadel is mostly my main paint line cause it is always in stock at my FLGS and my first paint brand.Blah. After trying out P3, and hearing about Vallejo paints, I'm finding that Citadel is kind of bottom of the line when it comes to quality. I'm slowly moving away from Citadel, as they run out (except for certain colors).

IIRC, Cregan Tur is a big advocate of the Vallejo paints with select colors from other lines.

[Chumbaniya]

I finally have some pictures of my models! They're actually a little out of date now (the first killa kan is now nearly complete - I just need to add a ranged weapon arm). I may try to take a new one of the almost-complete kan tonight.

First off, the kans:

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/Chumbaniya/Kan1partfinished1.jpg?t=1305835276

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/Chumbaniya/Kan1partfinished2.jpg?t=1305835570

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/Chumbaniya/Kan1partfinished3.jpg?t=1305835590

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/Chumbaniya/Kan2basecoat1.jpg?t=1305835610

I'm definitely going to do some more of the mud-covered stone effect on the base of the 3rd kan.

I've also now added an animal skull standard from the WHFB starter set I got 6 years ago to the 1st kan, and I think it looks pretty orky. Pictures shall appear at some point in the future.

Anyway, here are some other photos. First, the orc warboss from the old starter set (one of about 5 models I painted ~6 years ago):

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/Chumbaniya/OrcWarbossold.jpg?t=1305835822

One of the basic orcs from my old box that I painted recently as practice:

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/Chumbaniya/PracticeOrc.jpg?t=1305835825

And a part-painted savage orc boar boy. I think these models are fantastic. The boar and the base are mostly done (except the boar's teeth and extreme highlights on the face and fur) but I've done nothing but the green base for the orc's skin.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/Chumbaniya/SavageOrcBoarBoy.jpg?t=1305835828

[Gruffard]

I like. The only suggestion would be on the savage orc boy, I would add "tattoos" on the model, since magic tattoos are why they have a ward save, but then you said your not finished.

What base material do you use?

[Ninjaman]

Why do you put grass on the base before painting it? also the practise orc looks really flat.

[dsmiles]

Why do you put grass on the base before painting it?That actually looks really good for a "trampled battlefield" type of look, with the grass all crushed into the mud.

[Ninjaman]

That actually looks really good for a "trampled battlefield" type of look, with the grass all crushed into the mud.

But couldn´t you still achieve that if adding it after painting?

[Chumbaniya]

I like. The only suggestion would be on the savage orc boy, I would add "tattoos" on the model, since magic tattoos are why they have a ward save, but then you said your not finished.

What base material do you use?

I agree, I'd like to do the tattoos. I think for now I'd like to do the boars (they're pretty easy, just base, wash, drybrush and then highlight) and do the orcs with tattoos once I'm more confident with freehand designs.

The bases are just the sand and (on the boar) grass from the basic hobby set. The stones are painted. In future I'll have to get hold of some more bits and try something different.


Why do you put grass on the base before painting it? also the practise orc looks really flat.

For the grass on the boar boy, I did it after the boar was painted. I've done the base of the killa kan before painting it so I don't end up sticking sand over the already-painted feet (although I did do the base metal of the kan before the sand). I agree the practice orc looks flat - definitely needs highlights and I was far too cautious with the amount of wash. Also it's a less detailed model so washing it isn't as effective because there's less definition in the muscles.

Anyhow, I have pics of the almost finished first kan, including the skull pole:

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/Chumbaniya/Kan1almostfinished1.jpg?t=1305839694

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/Chumbaniya/Kan1almostfinished3.jpg?t=1305840221

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/Chumbaniya/Kan1almostfinished4.jpg?t=1305840248

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/Chumbaniya/Kan1almostfinished5.jpg?t=1305840292

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/Chumbaniya/Kan1almostfinished6.jpg?t=1305840318

I like the effect on the skull - I'll probably redo the same thing on the horns on the front of the body.

[dsmiles]

But couldn´t you still achieve that if adding it after painting?
Maybe, but I'd have to see it done to compare.

[Ninjaman]

For the grass on the boar boy, I did it after the boar was painted. I've done the base of the killa kan before painting it so I don't end up sticking sand over the already-painted feet (although I did do the base metal of the kan before the sand).

:smalleek:... i just stick it on before i spray them.

[dsmiles]

More minis, again, all Legion. I've got way too much time on my hands. :smallbiggrin:
Harriers:http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/19/223674_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/19/223675_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
Stingers:http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/19/223676_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/19/223677_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
Spawning Vessel:http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/19/223678_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/19/223679_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/19/223680_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/19/223681_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/19/223682_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg

[Gruffard]

Is there are reason you made the shredder's fireball thing the same color as he is? Seems like it be harder to tell it apart from a distance.

Other then that, I like. :smallbiggrin:

[dsmiles]

Is there are reason you made the shredder's fireball thing the same color as he is? Seems like it be harder to tell it apart from a distance.

Other then that, I like. :smallbiggrin:Thanks. :smallsmile:
The site I use to edit my photos has an autocorrect feature. Normally the pics come out okay, but for some reason, this time, the blue-grey chitin came out almost entirely blue. :smallannoyed: It's actually Shadow Grey, washed with Asurmen Blue, drybrushed with Shadow Grey. In the end, it looks like a shaded Shadow Grey. Stupid autocorrect. (The fireball glows in the dark. :smallbiggrin:)
These may look more like they do in RL:
http://i675.photobucket.com/albums/vv111/dsmiles76/Warmachine/DSC01385.jpg
http://i675.photobucket.com/albums/vv111/dsmiles76/Warmachine/DSC01386.jpg

[Justyn]

Just got done playing around with sky-earth non-metallic metals on an Iron Snake Space Marine, it's still fairly WIP-ish because I keep using this one snap-together model as a test model (I spilled glue all over it if you care).

http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l488/Justyn_Steinke/Warhammer%2040k/IMG_1298.jpghttp://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l488/Justyn_Steinke/Warhammer%2040k/IMG_1297.jpg

[Incomp]

Justyn, NMM is very, very difficult to do, and I would recommend a beginner stick with the regular kind until they're more experienced. Having said that, the highlights on the blue armor are very harsh, and I would recommend having a color in between the blue and the white to smooth it out.

[CreganTur]

I really am moiving away from GW paints because I've found that Vallejo is easier to work with, but I do have some GWs that I continue to use because I like the color. I also have a ton of them, so I'm phasing them out over time.

Some of the people at WAMP turned me on to Vallejo Air Metallics and I'm really liking them- they've got the smallest metallic particles since they're designed for airbrush use. THis means I can just squeeze a drop out of the dropper and use it without any extra thinning. I love Blighted Gold from P3 because it's just a great color.

the reason I'm turning more and more to Vallejo colors is because I'm finding they're easier to blend with and seem to have fewer coverage issues when compared to GW. Also, a large number of Vallejo paints are made to be the exact same as GW- Blood Red (GW) and Bloody Red(VMC) are 2 perfect examples of this. Vallejo also has many more shades to choose from.

I'd suggest picking up a few Vallejo paints and try them out just to see if you like them.

(I tried to post this yesterday but got hit with that annoying server is busy message).

[dsmiles]

These Vallejo Air Metallics sound awesome. I'll have to look into them. Thanks, again, CT. You keep recommending all these things that make me spend more money on minis. If my wife ever meets you, she'll probably kick your ass. :smalltongue:

EDIT: I just found a set of 8 Vallejo Air Metallics for $20.35. Is that a pretty good deal? (I see they sell for about the same as P3 paints, so I'm assuming it is.)

[dsmiles]

Cool, Dan's Crafts and Things and Hobby Lobby both have it. Will have to grab some this weekend.Did you ever get some snow? If so, how's it working out for you?

[Gruffard]

I did pick up some, first experiment worked, but haven't gotten to matting any of my snow themed models, so I am not there yet.

PS: I should wait until post matting for something fluffy like that right?

[dsmiles]

PS: I should wait until post matting for something fluffy like that right?If by matting, you mean varnishing, then it doesn't matter. The snow stays pretty fluffy. I accidentally spilled about half a bottle of super glue on one the other day, and there was no change to the consistency of the snow, it just got harder.

EDIT: MOAR!
Vayl, Disciple of Everblight:http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/20/223845_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/20/223846_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
Blighted Nyss Shepherds:http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/20/223844_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/20/223843_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
Nyss Sorceress on Hellion:http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/20/223842_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/20/223841_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/20/223839_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/20/223840_md-Everblight%2C%20Hordes%2C%20Legion.jpg

[Gruffard]

I don't care for the shininess, I tend to use a matte sealant from a spray can. Works for me.

[dsmiles]

I don't care for the shininess, I tend to use a matte sealant from a spray can. Works for me.

I just call it all varnish. So it shouldn't matter if you put the snow on first.

Also more pics! ^

[Gruffard]

Nyss Sorceress on Hellion, that is a cav unit? Neat.

Overall, I like. I tend to make duplicates different by painting them different (different hair color, etc) just so they don't look the same. But I am envious in how fast you are painting... I need to get more done. Haven't done anything since my giant O&G spider.

[dsmiles]

Nyss Sorceress on Hellion, that is a cav unit? Neat.

Overall, I like. I tend to make duplicates different by painting them different (different hair color, etc) just so they don't look the same. But I am envious in how fast you are painting... I need to get more done. Haven't done anything since my giant O&G spider.Thanks. :smallsmile:

Yeah, it's a cavalry solo. Their regular cavalry ride large caribou called "ulk."

Sadly, the two shepherds are based with different blues (one Necron Abyss, one Regal Blue; both dark, but pretty different when un-washed), but they came out almost identical after the Asurmen Blue wash. :smallfrown:

I'll probably highlight them before I varnish them, just to give them some of their individuality back.

EDIT: As far as speed goes, my wife is out of town, and I've got my "production line" technique perfected. :smallwink:

[Justyn]

Justyn, NMM is very, very difficult to do, and I would recommend a beginner stick with the regular kind until they're more experienced. Having said that, the highlights on the blue armor are very harsh, and I would recommend having a color in between the blue and the white to smooth it out.

Yeah, I messed up the white to blue a bit; what would you reccommend for the intermediary color? Space Wolves Grey? Or should I just take a longer time transitioning between white and blue?

But at any rate, it was a learning experience, so it was successful in that I learned what doesn't work. :smallsmile:

[dsmiles]

Yeah, I messed up the white to blue a bit; what would you reccommend for the intermediary color? Space Wolves Grey? Or should I just take a longer time transitioning between white and blue?

But at any rate, it was a learning experience, so it was successful in that I learned what doesn't work. :smallsmile:
This is why I stick to metallics, I can't do NMM to save my life. :smalltongue:

I'd try a longer, smoother transition. Mix your paints more, or do a wet blend.

[Incomp]

Yeah, I messed up the white to blue a bit; what would you reccommend for the intermediary color? Space Wolves Grey? Or should I just take a longer time transitioning between white and blue?

But at any rate, it was a learning experience, so it was successful in that I learned what doesn't work. :smallsmile:

My first suggestion would be to do a 50/50 mix of the two as an intermediary color. Otherwise, I think Space Wolves Grey would probably be alright.

[Turcano]

Some of the people at WAMP turned me on to Vallejo Air Metallics and I'm really liking them- they've got the smallest metallic particles since they're designed for airbrush use. THis means I can just squeeze a drop out of the dropper and use it without any extra thinning.

Also, Model Air metallics include red, blue, and black, which means between these, gold, and metallic medium, you can make pretty much any metallic color you want. I just got some Turn Signal Red for my Knights of the White Wolf.

[Closet_Skeleton]

I really am moiving away from GW paints because I've found that Vallejo is easier to work with, but I do have some GWs that I continue to use because I like the color. I also have a ton of them, so I'm phasing them out over time.

Whenever I look at buying Vallejo paints I just end up thinking "I like pots and always end up wasting paint when I have to squeeze it out onto a pallet".

I'm assembling some tomb kings skeletons in the roman style 'turtle formation' thing and the shields have turned out to not be nearly as big as they look. Bigger than the similarly shaped Egyptian shields were in real life but hardly legionaire sized.

Still look pretty cool raised above their heads in a collum though.

[Turcano]

Whenever I look at buying Vallejo paints I just end up thinking "I like pots and always end up wasting paint when I have to squeeze it out onto a pallet".

That's what a wet pallete is for. Actually, where I live a wet pallete is a necessity, as it's so dry here that the paint will dry out very quickly without one.

[Gruffard]

Whenever I look at buying Vallejo paints I just end up thinking "I like pots and always end up wasting paint when I have to squeeze it out onto a pallet".

I'm assembling some tomb kings skeletons in the roman style 'turtle formation' thing and the shields have turned out to not be nearly as big as they look. Bigger than the similarly shaped Egyptian shields were in real life but hardly legionaire sized.

Still look pretty cool raised above their heads in a collum though.

But how long paints last, I don't think that is a big concern for me, plus with the wacky weather I have here, they do need drops of water every so often anyhow. (doesn't sound as bad as Turcano :smallwink:)

On the turtle idea for the troops, that does sound fun.

[Zorg]

Hello Cathy from Maow Minis mounted on a Studio McVey base with a Tamia 1/35th Tommy Gun:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NLw6H0BYxz4/Tdk1dHqHOwI/AAAAAAAABB4/PLo88x-eleE/s1600/MHC01.jpg

[dsmiles]

I like it, Zorg. Looks really great. I'm guessing that the tommy gun isn't originally part of the mini, it looks like it came from a different brand (since there's a scale difference).

EDIT: I've finished the Nightmare Riders (Dawnguard Destors), and though they all look pretty much like the first one I posted, I wanted to post the Leader:
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/22/224819_md-Retribution%2C%20Scyrah%2C%20Steampunk%2C%20Warmac hine%2C%20Wm.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/22/224821_md-Retribution%2C%20Scyrah%2C%20Steampunk%2C%20Warmac hine%2C%20Wm.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/22/224820_md-Retribution%2C%20Scyrah%2C%20Steampunk%2C%20Warmac hine%2C%20Wm.jpg
Also, a link (http://www.dakkadakka.com/core/gallery-search.jsp?u=21466).

[Ninjaman]

Zorg@
That s the very aspect of awesomeness.

dsmiles@
The fire is awesome, how did you paint it?

[dsmiles]

dsmiles@
The fire is awesome, how did you paint it?Thanks. :smallsmile:

Layers. Layers are the key. (And wet blending.)

1. Mechrite Red basecoat.
2. Blood Red Highlights.
3. (While still tacky) Blazing Orange Highlights.
4. (Again, still wet) Sunburst Yellow Highlights.
5. (This is the special part) Glow-In-The-Dark Orange glazing. You could probably get away with a Fiery Orange glaze here, but this is a naturally thin paint (which is why I'm saying I glazed it on there). The effect should be about the same, either way.

[Zorg]

I like it, Zorg. Looks really great. I'm guessing that the tommy gun isn't originally part of the mini, it looks like it came from a different brand (since there's a scale difference).

It's a Tamia (or maybe Dragon) 1/35th gun. It's oversize, but I think it works. All the properly scaled guns I have were too chunky for her or not the right look. She almost had an M-16 with M-203, but the barrel was too long.



EDIT: I've finished the Nightmare Riders (Dawnguard Destors), and though they all look pretty much like the first one I posted, I wanted to post the Leader:
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/22/224819_md-Retribution%2C%20Scyrah%2C%20Steampunk%2C%20Warmac hine%2C%20Wm.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/22/224821_md-Retribution%2C%20Scyrah%2C%20Steampunk%2C%20Warmac hine%2C%20Wm.jpg
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/5/22/224820_md-Retribution%2C%20Scyrah%2C%20Steampunk%2C%20Warmac hine%2C%20Wm.jpg
Also, a link (http://www.dakkadakka.com/core/gallery-search.jsp?u=21466).


+1 flaming horse of vengeance! Again, great flames on him - they really go well with the dark armour.


Ninjaman - thanks very much :smallsmile:
When I showed my girlfriend her comment was "she seems to have run out of clothes". I pointed out she has plenty of hair to keep warm, which got me "Just Cuts - $35."
:smallbiggrin:

[dsmiles]

+1 flaming horse of vengeance! Again, great flames on him - they really go well with the dark armour.Thanks! :smallsmile:

On another note...I've got this whole crapton of snow flock left from my Legion models. I only have 2 left to do, and they're both small (30mm) bases.

Anyhow, time to move on to the rest of my pirates. Yay! I love painting pirates! No two have to be alike, they're so much more fun than regular units.

[Chumbaniya]

I've now got one of my kans completed. I've got it armed with a big shoota but it's only blu-tacked in for now so I can swap around weapon choices.

Tonight I've started working on the stormboyz. I've not done a great deal but the legs are finished and I've done a nice little freehand teeth design on the kneepad. I was worried at first about them being difficult to paint because they're quite closed and the arms and jump packs get in the way, but it seems to be working alright.

[Gruffard]

I've now got one of my kans completed. I've got it armed with a big shoota but it's only blu-tacked in for now so I can swap around weapon choices.

Tonight I've started working on the stormboyz. I've not done a great deal but the legs are finished and I've done a nice little freehand teeth design on the kneepad. I was worried at first about them being difficult to paint because they're quite closed and the arms and jump packs get in the way, but it seems to be working alright.

Magnets depending on the model, might hold better then the tac. Just a suggestions. Not familiar enough with the Kans to be sure.

[CreganTur]

Sansa is almost done, but I don't have any pics of her yet. The only things left are the ornamental lining of the cloak and her hair.

I've been spending most of my time building the base for her. I decided I wanted to do a winter scene since it fits so well with the character and the beginning of the book series. After a lot of thought I decided I wanted her to be standing alone underneath a dead tree in a snow covered forest. I couldn't find any premade trees that looked any good, so I decided to make my own. I grafted it together out of sticks and twigs from my backyard. I think it turned out pretty well because you can't even tell where the greenstuff is that I used to cover the splices.

I painted it with a bunch of layers and a whole lot of differen washes to give it the mottled coloration of a dead tree. I hate that the snow is going to cover almost all of the top of the tree, but I think putting in the work was worth it. The base is completed except for adding in some grass tufts and dead leaves, which will com ein just before I finish adding the snow.

http://www.stonetowerminiatures.com/albums/sansa/sansa2.jpg

[Incomp]

Oh, wow. That tree is cool.

On an unrelated note, I may finally have some work of my own to post tomorrow. :smallbiggrin:

[Ninja Chocobo]

Hello Cathy from Maow Minis mounted on a Studio McVey base with a Tamia 1/35th Tommy Gun:


Her skin's got an unfortunate-looking...textured quality to it.

[dsmiles]

~Snip~
That tree looks great, CT. I can't wait to see the finished product.

[Closet_Skeleton]

Having to remix white and two other colours every four models is annoying.

[Zorg]

Her skin's got an unfortunate-looking...textured quality to it.

Hrm, so it does... Odd as she certainly doesn't have it in person :smallconfused: It's probably a result of the way I paint, using a more drybrush-y method than blending.

[dsmiles]

Anybody ever use Army Painter Battlefields scenics?

I bought a package of swamp grass yesterday, and put some on Snapjaw's base. This stuff is pretty good. Unfortunately, they only had swamp grass and poison ivy.

[Closet_Skeleton]

I was contemplating getting some swamp grass but it looked like you didn't get much in the packet for your money.

[dsmiles]

I was contemplating getting some swamp grass but it looked like you didn't get much in the packet for your money.
Considering the fact that you really only need 2 or 3 tufts on a 50mm base to make it look good, $5.99 is a better deal than most of the GW/Citadel scenics. (I mean, really? $8.25 for a 4 oz. tub of sand? :smallsigh: I can get it at the local craft store at $3.99 for 4 lbs.)

[CreganTur]

I've got 1 set of their tufts- they're really nice and easier to use than static grass. I use them on display projects or anything I want to look really nice- otherwise I still with static grass cause it's cheaper.

[dsmiles]

Any new pics of that mini you're working on, CT?

[FlyingScanian]

(I mean, really? $8.25 for a 4 oz. tub of sand? :smallsigh: I can get it at the local craft store at $3.99 for 4 lbs.)

People actually PAY for sand? I can understand paying for grass (well, didn't that sound wrong...), but for sand? At least I have no trouble getting that for free out in the nature...

[dsmiles]

People actually PAY for sand? I can understand paying for grass (well, didn't that sound wrong...), but for sand? At least I have no trouble getting that for free out in the nature...
Yeah, I pay for it. Craft sand is pre-cleaned and sifted to provide a (relatively) consistent grit size. I'd rather not have to do that myself. It's just paying for convenience (much like paying $3.50 for small pots of pre-mixed acrylic paints rather than buying large tubes of unmixed paints for the same price and mixing it yourself).