Choosing skills/feats/equip for a newbie?

[goto124]

I'm a complete newbie to tabletop games, and I'm trying to generate my first character. I'll be in campaigns for DnD 3.5.

It looks like Fighter is the easiest class to play, with no spells to fiddle around and pretty much rather plain. So I guess I could go with that.

I got a grasp on Ability Scores, but I still don't know what to do about Skills and Feats. The guides I looked at don't really talk about them. How important is it to be able to Listen? Do I put just 1 Rank in (insert Feat Skill here), or 3? It'll be great if someone could cover the most important skills/feats for a beginner, thanks!

And yes, assume core DnD 3.5.

[atemu1234]

I think you mean skills, not feats, at least for the ranks bit.

Good feats for a fighter... you'll want to pick up power attack, if you see yourself as both a straight-class fighter using only one weapon, weapon focus might be good too, if you go for the chain.

[eggynack]

For skills, I'd advise just maxing out a a few, which means putting in four points plus another every time you level. On a straight fighter, assuming ten intelligence, that'd probably mean intimidate and handle animal. You might get a third point, possibly because of combat expertise, but fighters don't have much else in terms of worthwhile skills, so just go with whatever you want.

On the feats/other stuff, it depends some on book access. However, assuming core, good feats include power attack, as was noted, combat reflexes, improved trip, exotic weapon proficiency (spiked chain), and maybe a couple other less interesting ones. Realistically, the lack of such feats means that you're better off leaving fighter behind after about two levels, even more than you would be with more books. Thus, I recommend looking at the horizon tripper (http://www.giantitp.com/forums/showthread.php?80415-The-Horizon-Tripper-%28Core-Melee-Build%29). It's generally cited as the most optimal and interesting mundane melee build in core, and it's not especially complicated. Even if you don't want to run the full build, reading it should give a good understanding of what good melee optimization looks like.

[Urpriest]

Barbarian is actually a lot easier than Fighter. Feats are pretty complicated when you get as many as a Fighter does, so much of your effectiveness hinges on how well you pick them. There are fewer choices for a Barbarian, if you don't dabble in alternate class features anyway, and it's harder do badly.

[goto124]

I don't have any physical books, and so far have looked only at www.d20srd.org


I think you mean skills, not feats, at least for the ranks bit.

Yea, I'm that bad.


Thus, I recommend looking at the horizon tripper (http://www.giantitp.com/forums/showthread.php?80415-The-Horizon-Tripper-%28Core-Melee-Build%29). It's generally cited as the most optimal and interesting mundane melee build in core, and it's not especially complicated. Even if you don't want to run the full build, reading it should give a good understanding of what good melee optimization looks like.

Looking at the builds, it seems that multiclassing is essential to having a good, well-rounded character. Though, I don't really want to get so far into that when there's a LOT of things I don't know. If I'm not wrong, whenever I level up, I can choose which class to level up in? I know what "Levels: Barbarian 1 / Fighter 1 / Ranger 3" means, but it makes me wonder 'why? what does 1 Barb and 1 Fighter give me? What are those Ranger levels for?'

I'm actually more interested in knowing what I'm doing, less about optimizing. For example:


On a straight fighter, assuming ten intelligence, that'd probably mean intimidate and handle animal.

Why Intimidate and Handle Animal? Okay, looking at what Intimidate does (http://www.d20srd.org/srd/skills/intimidate.htm), I can imagine why I'll use it, but Handle Animal? Will I actually use an animal? What about Ride, Climb, etc? Other skills that are useful/important even though they're not my class skills?


Barbarian is actually a lot easier than Fighter. Feats are pretty complicated when you get as many as a Fighter does, so much of your effectiveness hinges on how well you pick them. There are fewer choices for a Barbarian, if you don't dabble in alternate class features anyway, and it's harder do badly.

I'm open to both Barbarian and Fighter.

[Seharvepernfan]

Okay, go on the SRD and look at the character classes. There should be a table, with levels on the left and other stuff on the right. If you're a first level fighter, you get the stuff to the right of "1st" on the fighter table. If, at 2nd level, you multiclass to barbarian, you add the stuff from the first level of barbarian to your character (+1 base attack bonus, +1d12+constitution modifier hp, +2 Fortitude save, 4+intelligence modifier skill points (chosen from the barbarian class list), the rage ability, and the fast movement). If you then went to ranger, you'd get the ranger stuff. If you level up the same class, you upgrade to or get the stuff for 2nd level for that class, and so on.

[goto124]

Okay, go on the SRD and look at the character classes. There should be a table, with levels on the left and other stuff on the right. If you're a first level fighter, you get the stuff to the right of "1st" on the fighter table. If, at 2nd level, you multiclass to barbarian, you add the stuff from the first level of barbarian to your character (+1 base attack bonus, +1d12+constitution modifier hp, +2 Fortitude save, 4+intelligence modifier skill points (chosen from the barbarian class list), the rage ability, and the fast movement). If you then went to ranger, you'd get the ranger stuff. If you level up the same class, you upgrade to or get the stuff for 2nd level for that class, and so on.

Ah, that makes a lot more sense now. Could you describe a bit about the multiclassing system please, such as 'is it very common' and 'how much do I need to multiclass if I just want to keep things simple'?

[Renen]

It is VERY common.
Though if you wanna keep things very simple, you can just not multiclass. You just wont be as strong as you can be though.
If you arent super afraid of multiclassing, 2 or 3 extra classes is the average people go for. I suggest just googling "barbarian handbook" for example and reading it. Itll tell you about class skill you get, and if you should care. Itll tell you which of your class features are good, itll tell you which feats to take and which prestige classes to consider.

Dont be me though, when I started the game my 1st character was a malconvoker (summoning specialist). Was bloody hard to build, considering I got into DnD tge day before.

[goto124]

It is VERY common.
Though if you wanna keep things very simple, you can just not multiclass. You just wont be as strong as you can be though.
If you arent super afraid of multiclassing, 2 or 3 extra classes is the average people go for. I suggest just googling "barbarian handbook" for example and reading it. Itll tell you about class skill you get, and if you should care. Itll tell you which of your class features are good, itll tell you which feats to take and which prestige classes to consider.

I found Eldariel's Guide to Barbarians (http://www.giantitp.com/forums/showthread.php?105525-3-5e-Being-Bane-Eldariel-s-Guide-to-Barbarians)... goodness it's got so many flavor words. I also found a guide from another forum (http://brilliantgameologists.com/boards/index.php?topic=2502), though I might try to take out the important points from Eldariel's first. Are there any other good guides around? Again, open to both Barbarian and Fighter, and you're more than welcome to argue which one is easier to learn from.

[Renen]

Yeh thats what I often do. Though "that other forum" (and its copy) is the place where you'd usually go for a handbook. Or atleast check there 1st, since it has got a good amound of very decent ones.

[goto124]

I decided to condense a section of Eldariel's. Correct me if I made any mistakes. It's a rather nice guide really, though I'm not sure when to improve what. At what level do I put how many points into Fast Movement, for example?

Also... what is the difference between Skills and Feats?


Full BAB
d12 Hit Die
Good fortitude save
4 skill points/level

-Illiteracy: Fighter-levels give literacy and allows you to wear more armor.

-Fast Movement: Awesome because you walk fast, the true value is forgetting fast movement and instead learning the lightning strikes at the end of your charges (what does this mean?)

-Uncanny Dodge: Becomes Improved Uncanny Dodge later. without risking flat foots

-Trapsense: Walk into traps without taking damage.

-Damage Reduction: Does not matter ever (Adamantine Full-Plate provides the same, and doesn’t stack). Get rid of it and use something that adds damage.

-Indomitable Will: Works nicely with Steadfast Determination. This ensures that you have two good saves instead of just one, preventing you from failing saves too often. Comes late, but still helps.


Ability scores

-Strength: what most Barbarians rely on. the source of your melee hit and
damage, also the primary attribute boosted by Rage. Build your character around Strength. Also governs all the martial maneuvers such as Trip, Disarm, Grapple.

-Dexterity: Acting fast, dodging blows and in general, gaining extra value out of your HP is great added to immense strength. Also, fuels some Barbarian-feats and makes Archerians happen.

-Constitution: Barbarians gain damage reduction or AC bonus. This is your
primary defense. Make sure to keep your Con up. Also, makes you stay in Rage for longer.

-Intelligence: This can be worth it, this can be not worth it. Not recommanded for newbies, though veterans can make good use of it.

-Wisdom: Have some Wis for Will saves and trap detection.

-Charisma: Have some Cha too for balance.


Skills

Class

-Climb: Useful unless you have a mage to cast Fly on you.
-Handle Animal: (someone tell me about this please)
-Intimidate: Weakens the enemy. Might require a few feats to be worth overcoming your possible Cha penalty, though your high Con gives nice circumstance bonuses.
-Jump: If you don’t have Leap Attack, this is replaceable with Fly, but you should always have Leap Attack anyway. You can kill things by jumping on them.
-Listen: Avoid ambushes and to hear whispers. You have d12 HD and Uncanny Dodge, but if you invest in it maybe the d4 caster you break will give you some nice gear (what does this mean?)
-Survival: You survive traps. Save money instead of buying food. Trapkiller makes this worth it. See ACF section.
-Ride: No need, with Fast Movement you run fast enough. Survival is a class skill, so you don't need Emergency Rations anyway.
-Tumble: Cityscape allows you to trade Ride for Tumble. Tumble is much better than ride. Even without Cityscape, max this. Basically, you can keep dodging enemies until you attack them.

Cross Class

-Bluff: If you’re building for Intimidate, this gives you another +2 at the cost of 5 ranks. It helps to be able to lie.
-Balance: Put 5 ranks in this, so that 1st level Wizards can't mess you up.
-Spot: Same as listen, except it's even more reasonable to shove the Wizard’s gift down his throat and tell him to avoid his own damn ambushes (what does this mean?) Only worth it if you have nothing better to spend ranks on.
-Hide/Move Silently: Your choice. Probably not worth it.
-Use Magic Device: Nifty. You can use magic items to attack enemies or buff yourself (The Flexible Mind feat makes this a permanent class skill for you).

Skill Tricks

-Clarity of Vision: Not worth it unless you’re in a build that meet the Spot requirement (good for beating enemies avoiding you). Requires 12 ranks of Spot , which means you have to study other classes to even be able to reach it before the end of your path.
-Extreme Leap: Good if you’re a Leap Attacker. Worth it if you can spare the ranks. Needs 5 in Jump, which you should have anyways.
-Never Outnumbered: Demoralize multiple targets simultaneously. Prerequisite of 8 skill ranks.
-Nimble Charge: Grab this. Charge over difficult terrain. Needs 5 Ranks in Balance, which you should always have if you're a charger.
-Point It Out: If you have the ranks in Spot, might as well, but don’t worry
about it otherwise. Requires 8 ranks.
-Spot the Weak Point: Great for fighting high-armor characters, take it if you meet the prerequisites. Needs, again, 12 ranks in Spot.
-Twisted Charge: Grab this. Turn during a charge. Needs 5 Ranks in Balance and Tumble, which are both good investments anyways.


Feats

Fundamentals: Core & SRD

-Power Attack (Str 13) [SRD, PHB]: Trade attack bonus for damage, at a 1 for 2 ratio when wielding a weapon in two hands. Barbarian class feature. Lacks prerequisites.
-Leadership (Character Level 6) [SRD, PHB]: The most powerful feat in D&D. Gets you a Bard cohort to improve your performance (and to use magic (items) for you).
-Improved Bull Rush (Power Attack, Str 13) [SRD, PHB]: Necessary evil. You need it to qualify for Shock Dragoon-combo.
-Cleave (Str 13, Power Attack) [SRD, PHB]: Solid. Since you tend to do a lot of damage, chances are that whenever two enemies are lined up, you'll have a nice shot at decapitating both with one nice strike. Very good for time management and even when you're breaking less easily-broken targets, fact is that eventually you tend to kill something and as long as there's something else left to kill, you get one for free!
-Combat Reflexes (Dex 13) [SRD, PHB]: Wonderful! Lets you attack even when it's not your turn. You can trip opponent, he gets up, make him Stand Still. Someone hits you, Robilar’s Gambit him back. Do it while you’re flat-footed!
-Stand Still (Str 13) [SRD, XPH]: Good. Forgo an AoO to force an opponent to make a reflex save or remain in place. Reflex save DC is equal to your (high) damage.
-Improved Unarmed Strike [SRD, PHB]: Helpful for unarmed combat. Your damage die will suck, but that’s what Power Attack and strength are for.
-Improved Grapple (Dex 13, Improved Unarmed Strike) [SRD, PHB]: Grappling is a problem-laden area of combat. Size is the primary means of boosting it, which almost always favours the monsters. Freedom of Movement is commonly available on higher levels. And you make yourself vulnerable to a lot of things. Barbarian is the best for this job out of all non-casters. Also makes the Barbarian the best for the job in an Anti-Magic Field. Big HP, huge Str & full BAB are help in a Grapple. Not very good outside duels, but if you must be a grappler, at least be a Barbarian!
-Improved Initiative [SRD, PHB]: +4 Initiative. You act first, before your
enemies do! If you have extras, feel free to pick this.
-Rapid Shot (Dex 13, Point Blank Shot) [SRD, PHB]: For the archery.
-Precise Shot (Point Blank Shot) [[SRD, PHB]: If Archery's your career, go
ahead. Otherwise, pass.
-Improved Precise Shot (Dex 19, Point Blank Shot, Precise Shot, BAB +11) [SRD, PHB]: It’s ok. This is Improved Shooting At The Right People. If you make a career out of shooting things, go ahead. Otherwise, pass.
-Combat Expertise (Int 13) [SRD, PHB]: Necessary evil if limited to Core. If you have access to other books, you shouldn't need to bother being a smart combatant. This stuff cramps your style, but acquiring abilities to knock people down, hit them for hitting you and so on can just be worth it. The reason to be a smart Barbarian.
-Improved Trip (Int 13, Combat Expertise) [SRD, PHB]: Lets you trip things, and gives you a free attack when you successfully trip someone, and another one when they get up.You get to touch things instead of hitting them even with iteratives. Much easier, not to mention more pleasant. Wolves learn this whether they have Expertise or not. Prerequisite for Knock-Down.
-Knock-Down (Str 15, Improved Trip, BAB +2) [SRD, D&D]: Whenever you deal 10 or more damage to a target, you get a free trip attempt against them.
-Reckless Offense (BAB +1) [SRD, XPH]: Somewhat worthwhile. If you have nothing better to use your feat on (as is like to be the case in Core), this is ok. Extra Power Attack (what does this mean?), it's not like you'd been dodging hits anyways.
-Exotic Weapon Proficiency (BAB +1) [SRD, PHB]: Depends. Exotic Weapons have 1 size larger damage die than normal weapons (aka they suck). However, there’s one weapon of interest especially to two-handed charger/controller Barbarians: the Spiked Chain. It trips, disarms, deals two-handed reach damage, threatens adjacent and just has the whole damn packet. If you have the feat to burn, it’s for you.
-Weapon Focus (BAB +1) [SRD, PHB]: Bleh. Feel free if you’re run out of everything else to pick. Do take 4 Fighter-levels for Specialization if you really are going to bother. Archers can get something out of these. Most don’t. But meh.
-Weapon Finesse (BAB +1) [SRD, PHB]: Useless in core, but believe it or not, it is possible to make a Dex-focused Barbarian with additional material!

[Vhaidara]

"Levels: Barbarian 1 / Fighter 1 / Ranger 3" means, but it makes me wonder 'why? what does 1 Barb and 1 Fighter give me? What are those Ranger levels for?'

I'm actually more interested in knowing what I'm doing, less about optimizing. For example:

Well, the Horizon Tripper build actually does explain a lot of the parts. For Example
Barbarian 1: Fast Movement is a fantastic class feature for mobility. You are now able to move 30% further than most people, and twice as fast as someone wearing heavy or medium armor. Additionally, Barbarian is possibly the best class at level 1 because you automatically get max HP from their d12 Hit Die, and you get the x4 skill point multiplier on a 4/level class. Compared to starting in Fighter, you don't have heavy armor proficiency at level 1 (you can't afford it then anyways), 2 more HP, 8 more skill points (from a much better list) and you have Rage, which means that you can get tougher if you need to.
Fighter 1: This was to pick up another feat (in the case of Horizon Tripper, Combat Reflexes). Feats are generally what cause your build to work. The faster you can get them, the sooner your build starts working, or "comes online". Therefore, a level or two in Fighter is generally very good on non-caster builds (caster builds and non-caster builds work fundamentally differently)
Ranger 3: This adds Knowledge (Geography) to your class skill list, bringing your maximum ranks in it up to Level+3, which will allow you to enter the Horizon Walker Prestige Class (PrC) at Character Level 6. You generally want to enter a PrC at level 6, and at least by level 10. The other reason for Ranger levels is that they have a lot of utility. They give 6+Int skill points from a solid list, and provide you with the feats Track and Endurance, the second of which is also needed for Horizon Walker.

Now, why Horizon Walker? It is because the class gives a lot of strong utility, while still providing a full Base Attack Bonus. Your Terrain Masteries provide you with Darkvision, Fatigue immunity, and bonuses to perception skills (Spot and Listen), so it becomes extremely difficult to surprise you. Meanwhile, your Planar Masteries are about mobility and utility. Shifting lets you teleport every 1d4 rounds, which is an incredibly powerful ability to have on a non-caster (monks get it 1/day at half the strength you do), tremorsense will help deal with invisible enemies, Aligned is for dealing with Damage Reduction, and the last two are for resistances: Fire damage is incredibly common, so 20 points of fire resistance is a great thing to have. Likewise to cold.

[Darrin]

How important is it to be able to Listen?


Listen is important because it's easier to pinpoint invisible creatures with Listen than it is to use Spot. According to Rules of the Game: There, Not There (Part Two) (http://archive.wizards.com/default.asp?x=dnd/rg/20040921a), the DC to pinpoint an invisible creature with Spot is at least 40, while Listen is a DC 20. The difficulty increases by +1 for each 10 feet between you and the target, but in general you have a better chance with Listen. But Listen and Spot aren't "class skills" for Fighter, which means you have to pay 2 skill points to get 1 skill rank, and since Fighters only get 2 skill points per level, it will be quite a while before you have enough skill ranks to be considered very competent at it.

Outside of invisible creatures, the DM is probably going to call for Spot checks more often, since most DMs forget to think about sounds and Listen checks when describing the environment.

There's a much easier way for a 1st level fighter to deal with invisible opponents, but it involves some rules in a book outside Core. In Dungeonscape, you can buy Flour Pouches for 1 SP each, so buy 10 for a gold piece to start with. These can be thrown as splash weapons, which means you can target a grid intersection on the map, throw the flour pouch, and coat everything within 5' of that intersection with flour. If any invisible opponents get coated with flour, you can automatically pinpoint their square now, and their miss chance is reduced to 20% (it's 50% without the flour). Even better, if Complete Scoundrel is available, you can buy Torch Bug Paste for 25 GP. This also works as a splash weapon, and it completely negates the effects of invisibility.



It'll be great if someone could cover the most important skills/feats for a beginner, thanks!


Ok, let's look at the Fighter's Class Skills. These are skills where you can spend 1 skill point and get 1 skill rank, so these are the skills that Fighters tend to be "good" at.

Climb: This is situationally useful at lower levels, but once things like flight, spider climb, wild shape, polymorph, and various other abilities become more common at higher levels, it barely gets used. If you know the DM is really big on dungeon crawls and gets super-delighted watching PCs fall down pit traps, it might be worth it to put a few points in here, but in most cases you'll probably have a rope and a corner, and your climb DC will rarely get above 5 or 10.

Craft: Unless you know in advance you're going to be making masterwork weapons/armor later, you can skip this skill. By the time you have enough skill ranks to create something useful or interesting, you'll probably have plenty of gold to just buy what you need, and most DMs don't give the PCs enough "down time" to craft anything important. I sometimes throw a few points into Craft to give my PC a little more personality, such as "Craft: Brewing Fish Beer" or "Craft: Macaroni Collage". There are a few corner cases where a couple ranks in something like Craft: Painting or Craft: Basketweaving actually come in handy, but it's somewhat rare.

Handle Animal: This is worth investing some skill points into, particularly at lower levels where a riding dog or a well-trained horse can make a huge difference against low-CR opponents. Basically, if you're willing to put a little effort into some bookkeeping, it's a very cheap form of "Minionmancy" (technical term: creating or summoning "minion" creatures to fight for you). A guard dog costs 25 GP, you can teach it the basic fighting package in 1 week, and the DC 15 or DC 20 is still manageable even at lower levels. A mule is even cheaper (8 GP), it's a large creature with 3 hit dice (3 levels), has a +9 grapple check, and can be trained to grapple enemies (with, uh... their mouth I guess?). A team of mules can block passages, surround enemies, and... well, carry stuff. The risk here is if you're tearing apart everything that the DM throws at you with a pack of attack dogs, the DM is going to be quite peeved at you, and the rest of the party is going to be bored or frustrated. At higher levels, you can train dinosaurs or magical beasts, but you have to be careful about overshadowing the spellcasters or dodging the DM's nerfbat.

Intimidate: Not worth it. It's Charisma-based, so you're not that good at it to begin with, and there are very, very few situations in D&D where spending a standard action to intimidate is better than just spending a standard action to attack. (Note: It is possible to build a very scary Intimidate-based build (http://www.myth-weavers.com/sheetview.php?sheetid=153726), but it involves several "must haves" that are outside the Core rules.)

Jump: If you're going to max out skill ranks on anything, this would be the best skill for that. The Jump skill allows you to jump over obstacles, which can come in quite handy when you want to charge an opponent but there are terrain features in the way. In the Core rules, it's not entirely clear that you can jump over obstacles, and the Charging rules explicitly say if there's anything in your way, you can't even declare the charge. But the Rules Compendium clarified this, and it says explicitly that you can jump over obstacles (however, it's still pretty fuzzy on what "obstacles" might be). You're a fighter, so you like charging. Anything that makes charging better is something you'll want to put points into.

Ride: This one is tricky, because the Mounted Combat rules are pretty dysfunctional without some house-rules. It might be worth it to toss a point or two in here so you can hit the easy DC 5 stuff: guide with knees, stay in the saddle. Fight with warhorse is only a DC 10, but large-sized horses don't always fit into dungeons, and after a few levels they have the the combat survivability of wet tissue. Unless the majority of the party is mounted and the DM's rules mastery is high enough to make mounted combat interesting, I wouldn't worry too much about this one.

Swim: Meh. It takes so long to drown in D&D, you generally have plenty of time to sink to the bottom, walk to the edge, and climb out. A DM who is really on top of the Swim/Drowning rules can still screw you over, but it's not much of a worry once you can afford to throw a potion of water breathing (750 GP) into your pack.

And finally... some skills you may want to consider taking Cross-Class:

Balance: If you have the points for it, make sure you get 5 ranks in this skill. This means that whenever you're on unstable footing (ice, grease, marbles, etc.), you're not considered flat-footed (denied your Dexterity bonus). This means rogues can't sneak attack you just because you're balancing on unusual terrain.

Listen: Already discussed, but to recap: Listen checks usually have lower DCs, you're much less likely to be deafened than blinded, and it's easier to pinpoint invisible creatures.

Tumble: Being able to move around the battlefield without worrying about Attacks of Opportunity helps you stay relevant and keeps combat interesting. Ask (or beg) your DM if you can use the "Skilled City Dweller" ACF (Alternate Class Feature) from the Cityscape Web Enhancement (http://archive.wizards.com/default.asp?x=dnd/we/20070228a). This lets any class that has Ride as a class skill swap it out for Tumble. Even if you can only take it as a cross-class skill, I like to max out Tumble whenever I can.

[eggynack]

Intimidate: Not worth it. It's Charisma-based, so you're not that good at it to begin with, and there are very, very few situations in D&D where spending a standard action to intimidate is better than just spending a standard action to attack. (Note: It is possible to build a very scary Intimidate-based build (http://www.myth-weavers.com/sheetview.php?sheetid=153726), but it involves several "must haves" that are outside the Core rules.)
I rather disagree, at least in the context of the fighter skill list. Yes, the fighter won't be as competent at facery as a character dedicated to the cause, but they will still be capable of using the skill to participate in out of combat situations, which is a rare asset indeed where fighters are concerned. Moreover, there's just not that much competition for the slot, as your apparent intended competitors are either jump or cross-class ranks. This is especially important in a solo campaign, as the ability to handle non-combat situations will fall entirely on the fighter's shoulders

[goto124]

Thanks for all the advice!


This is especially important in a solo campaign, as the ability to handle non-combat situations will fall entirely on the fighter's shoulders

This is assuming that there won't be a DMPC? How often does the DM himself join a campaign as a PC?

[eggynack]

This is assuming that there won't be a DMPC? How often does the DM himself join a campaign as a PC?
Not really sure. Probably more likely in a solo campaign though. Still, it's more of a case by case thing than something that should be assumed one way or the other. Of course, there is also the chance that there will be a DMPC, but that said DMPC won't fill the face role any better than the fighter will, though given the fighter's lack of competency in the role, the chance isn't massive. However, even in a party with other characters capable of facery, the capacity to mechanically participate in that sort of challenge is a relevant thing. It's also nice to be able to add any sort of real versatility to a fighter, because they don't get much of it.

[Telonius]

Also... what is the difference between Skills and Feats?



Generally, a Skill is something that basically any character has the potential to do (or at least try). It doesn't matter if you're a Wizard or a Barbarian, if the floor is shaking pretty much anybody is going to use the "Balance" skill. (There are a few skills that are labeled as "trained only." These are things like Use Magic Device or one of the Knowledge skills. Anybody can learn them with some effort, but unless you've had that little bit of training, there's zero chance you're going to succeed. In order to even try those skills, you need to get one rank in the skill). Every character gets a certain number of skill points each time they level up. Skills don't have any prerequisites; you can add skill points to any skill you want. You can only have a certain number of skill points in each skill. If it's a "class skill," that number is your level plus three (so, four, for a level 1 character; five for a level 2, and so on). If it's a cross-class skill, it's your class skill maximum, divided by two; rounded down. [EDIT: by that, I mean that you round the bonus down; you can have 2.5 ranks in something, but you'd only add 2 to your d20 roll.]

A Feat is (generally) an exception to the usual rules. It lets you do something that the average person can't do, or lets you do something better than the average person. For example, Spring Attack lets you "break" a rule. Usually, if you move up to an enemy and attack, you have to stop there. But a character with Spring Attack can move, attack, and then move again (up to their usual maximum movement). Improved Initiative is an example of letting you do something better than usual. Usually when you roll to see who goes first, you just add your Dexterity modifier to a d20. But someone with the Improved Initiative feat will add an extra 4 to that roll. Every character gets at least one feat at first level. (Humans - and a couple of odd races like Strongheart Halflings - get an extra one as a racial bonus). Every character gets another one at 3rd, 6th, 9th, and so on. Some classes grant bonus feats; that will be included in the class description.

Another way that Feats are different from skills is that Feats will often have prerequisites. For example, Power Attack requires you to have a Strength score of 13 in order to take the feat. Some classes allow you to break the prerequisite rules. If that's the case, it's always spelled out in the class description. For example, the Ranger class's Combat Style bonus feats:

If the ranger selects archery, he is treated as having the Rapid Shot feat, even if he does not have the normal prerequisites for that feat.
Not all Feats have prerequisites; some (like Blind-Fight) can be taken by any character.

Unlike Feats, Skills never have prerequisites; you can put ranks in any skill as long as you don't exceed the maximum skill points for that level.

[Fouredged Sword]

Ok, so I know you want to play an easy character, but I have to say this. For a solo game, if you want a simple character that can actually DO all the parts of the game without heavy character optimization, be a bard.

Seriously, you are tougher than a fighter because you can heal yourself between combats (cure light wounds)

You get enough skill points and much better class skills (hide/move silently, diplomacy/bluff). As a human with a 10 int you get 7 skills. Hide, move silently, diplomacy, bluff, sense motive, listen and preform, done. If you put a 12 into int, get use magic device for later or listen. Get both if you want an int of 14.

You get to dip your toes into the world of spells. You don't have to worry about being a wizard with a massive spell book, but at level 2 you get to pick a 1st level spell to know.

You have 3/4th bab, but you also get inspire courage to boost your melee abilities. At low levels this means you are just as good at hitting things as a fighter. Just remember to sing before you attack. If you are only trying to effect yourself you can hum softly to yourself to avoid being heard (DC to hear a whisper is 15).

Don't be intimidated by the options, embrace them.

Basic build

Level 1 bard - 26 point buy. - boost dex and int if you have better point buy.
Str 10
Dex 14
Con 14
Int 12
Wis 10
Cha 14

Feat - weapon finesse.
Skills, max ranks in: Hide, move silently, diplomacy, bluff, sense motive, Spot (cross class), listen, and preform.

Wield a rapier and get a chain shirt. Have fun and try things out.

[Seharvepernfan]

You need a bab of +1 to take weapon finesse.

[Fouredged Sword]

You need a bab of +1 to take weapon finesse.

Facepalm. :smallsigh: My bad...

[eggynack]

Facepalm. :smallsigh: My bad...
To be fair, it's one of the silliest prerequisites in existence, forcing the classes that really depend on it on occasion, like the rogue, to spend a couple of levels in attack bonus lacking squalor.

[Seharvepernfan]

To be fair, it's one of the silliest prerequisites in existence, forcing the classes that really depend on it on occasion, like the rogue, to spend a couple of levels in attack bonus lacking squalor.

They can always use thrown or projectile weapons for a while.

[Der_DWSage]

Hm. For a first-timer, I'd actually recommend you go with a Ranger instead-for many of the same reasons that the above poster suggested being a Bard, but more because it helps introduce things bit by bit. (I'd recommend Paladin if they had more than 2+Int skill points...)

At first level, you're largely indistinguishable from a Fighter. Picking a Favored Enemy is always a risky business, but it's unlikely that you'll go wrong with Favored Enemy(Undead). And if you don't expect to get out of low levels, Favored Enemy(Animal) also works.

At second level, after you've spent a whole level getting used to how combat works, you're introduced to dual-wielding or archery. While dual-wielding is fancier, it's generally regarded as weaker than just going with two-handed weapons and taking archery as a back-up option.

At fourth level, you're introduced to spells now that you have a handle on combat. Not very many, and very few are worth anything, but that makes it even lower risk if you flub your casting. You also get an animal companion, introducing you to how secondary characters work. (Such as Animal Companions, Summons, Minions, Leadership Thralls...)

So, here's what I recommend.



Strength:16 (+3 modifier)
Dexterity:14 (+2 modifier)
Constitution:14 (+2 modifier)
Intelligence:12 (+1 modifier)
Wisdom:14 (+2 modifier)
Charisma:9 (-1 modifier)

Skills
Hide:4 ranks (+6 total, +5 with armor)
Knowledge(Nature):4 ranks (+5 total)
Listen:4 ranks (+6 total)
Move Silently:4 ranks (+6 total, +5 with armor)
Search:4 ranks (+5 total)
Spot:4 ranks (+6 total)
Survival:4 ranks (+6 total)

Feats
Power Attack
Improved Initiative

Equipment
Greatsword (2d6+4 damage with 16 strength, 2d6+6 if using Power Attack at 1st level, 19-20/x2 critical hit range, Slashing weapon)

Studded Leather Armor (Grants +3 Armor bonus to AC, -1 penalty on all dexterity and strength-based skills, maximum dexterity bonus of +5, something you won't worry about too much)

Shortbow (1d6 damage, critical hit on a 20 for x3 damage, piercing ranged weapon, range of 60 feet)

Whatever mundane gear is appropriate for the campaign.

While your survivability is a little low for first level, you're able to make up for it by usually going first and hitting hard. It's also a bit healthier and more capable with melee than the Bard below, while not giving up too much versatility for a mundane character.

[goto124]

So glad to read advice I can actually understand.

I'm open to suggestions for group campaigns, since I want to join a group later on too.

[Seharvepernfan]

That ranger should have another 4 skill points; 6 + 1 from Int + 1 from human.

Anyway, I second ranger as a good starting class. Yes it's more complicated than a fighter, but in a way that will be better for you. Though bard will introduce you to many things, it's too easy for an newb to mess up.

[Der_DWSage]

Whups, so he does. He started with 10 Int, and I bumped him up to match the Bard's stats, so I forgot to change his skills to match. I also forgot to note that one should improve the Shortbow to a Composite Longbow as soon as possible. (They're horrendously expensive for a first level character, and likely to be well out of your price range until you have a few adventures under your belt.)

That said, the last few skill points...Ride, maybe, if you go with getting a Horse at 4th level? Or just put them in whatever you fancy. Climb, perhaps.

[Coidzor]

Always have a club or quarterstaff or both when making a low level character, since they're free and unless you're a commoner you're proficient and having a source of bludgeoning damage and backup weapon is always good. And they can even be useful tools while at low levels where you actually use tools rather than magic.

After cost is no longer an object (so, level 2, really), morningstars are great backup weapons because they're both bludgeoning and piercing simultaneously.

Always have at least one dagger, preferably two, both as a tool and as a readily accessible worst-case-scenario weapon. They're also something that can do piercing or slashing damage, unlike many other weapons, including several which you'd think *should* be able to do both piercing or slashing depending upon usage due to having stabby bits and chopping/cutting/slashing bits.

If you're proficient, carry at least a light wooden shield at low levels, even if you don't normally make use of it. It can help to have the option, especially if you find yourself needing to use a weapon you can only really use one-handed.

You don't need proficiency with tower shields unless you plan on attacking while using one, which isn't really worth it. Mostly you'd use it for the total cover option which can be useful for some puzzle encounters.

Twine, rope, and string are all your friends. especially since you can make your own better than 10 foot poles that way, to avoid any "haha, we knew you'd have a 10' pole" gotchas that occasionally show up.

Reach weapons are your friend due to attacks of opportunity and larger creatures having better reach than you without them.

[goto124]

Twine, rope, and string are all your friends.

How will I use them in a campaign?

[Vhaidara]

How will I use them in a campaign?

Those three are limited by your imagination. Triplines are a major one, tying people up, climbing up or down a cliff.

I always bring at last 50ft of silk rope on my characters. Starting at higher levels, once I have a Handy Haversack (Bag of Holding as a backpack), I usually have more like 500ft.

[Coidzor]

Yep. There's always *something* you can do with rope or some other fastening agent. Given a sufficient quantity of rope and quarterstaves (http://wildernessarena.com/skills/knots-and-rope/construction-lashings), you can make all kinds of structures (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pioneering_%28Scouting%29).

Mules (http://www.d20srd.org/srd/monsters/mule.htm) are a great animal. They're fairly strong, they have good HD for how early you can obtain them, and you can get more mules than you can easily direct in battle for a song. They're also explicitly called out as being able to be directed into many areas (http://www.d20srd.org/srd/equipment/goodsAndServices.htm#mountsAndRelatedGear) that otherwise one might have difficulty arguing that an animal might be reluctant to go.

If you have Handle Animal, training up to 3 mules at a time for combat can be a great investment of 24 gp and backstory time. Aside from being slower than horses, there's nothing stopping you from being mounted on one from first level.

And you can be a little sly by having several of them set to Defend you in advance when you're expecting combat, letting you save actions from having to direct them in combat.

[goto124]

Yep. There's always *something* you can do with rope or some other fastening agent. Given a sufficient quantity of rope and quarterstaves (http://wildernessarena.com/skills/knots-and-rope/construction-lashings), you can make all kinds of structures (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pioneering_%28Scouting%29).

Wait, do I need a Craft skill to do that sort of things?

[Chronos]

If you play a ranger, talk to your DM about what Favored Enemy choice would be good. He'll usually be able to give you some idea of what the adventure is going to be about. For instance, taking orcs as your favored enemy usually isn't a good idea... unless the adventure is going to be about stopping the rampaging orc horde.

And multiclassing is usually a good idea... between the classes that are mostly about hitting things with weapons, or between the classes that are mostly about using skills. If, later on, you play a spellcaster, you will probably not want to multiclass, except into prestige classes that advance your spellcasting.

[Coidzor]

Wait, do I need a Craft skill to do that sort of things?

Most of it should be relatively simple uses of Use Rope (http://www.d20srd.org/srd/skills/useRope.htm), or, rather, your Dexterity score that are done in sequence to make something greater than the sum of its checks.

You'd make two DC 10 Use Rope checks to tie firm knots for square, shear, and diagonal lashings, and in between you'd tightly wrap the rope around the staves, so maybe another DC 10 Use Rope check, DC 15 at the most, to know how to make a lashing. It's possible they were covered in more depth elsewhere in the rules, perhaps in Stormwrack, but in a Core environment, it's pretty trivial since having a non-negative dexterity modifier and Taking 10 means you can do whatever you want.

And if the DM does raise it up to a 15, there's a number of ways to get a +5 modifier and then Take 10. The first one that comes to mind is having some number of untrained laborer hirelings (http://www.d20srd.org/srd/equipment/goodsAndServices.htm#hirelingUntrained) following you around to aid another you on your Use Rope Checks and schlep stuff around for you. Unfortunately the hirelings would have to roll to be able to aid another unless you had enough present that you to be assured that enough of them would succeed that no rolling was necessary, but that's more the territory you get into once you have Followers.

You repeat this knot-twist-twist-twist-knot procedure for each individual lashing until you've whipped up a ten minute watch tower or a bunch of tripods or other structures to provide difficult terrain due to the obstruction or that act as barricades(unfortunately this last part depends upon the DM rewarding this kind of creativity and prep and also determining just what sort of impediment such things present in an encounter), and making a monkey bridge would probably involve some DC 15 checks for the knotwork involved, IIRC.

If you're a high-Int or high-Wis character and really, really needed to not use your dexterity, you could argue for a craft or profession skill, I suppose. I guess it'd be a way to get around possibly using Survival or Knowledge: Engineering to know where and how to place various structures to put them in the right places and get the most stable place you can place them.