Cycling (of the Pedaled Variety) [Archive] - Giant in the Playground Forums

DodgerH2O

2016-05-12, 02:02 AM

Not super into bikes, but I know as with most purchases a good first step is outlining your budget and goals. You can easily spend thousands on a bicycle, but most people who spend that much are very serious about using them or else have a lot of disposable income.

Depending on how often you intend to ride and where you'll be riding you may want to look into more rugged materials. I've had mostly steel frames and if you will ride on city streets at all it might be worth getting the thicker, more puncture-resistant tires.

I highly advise finding your "neighborhood bike shop" and visiting. Don't go in expecting to buy, but most shops will gladly inform you about the different types of bicycle and how to fit one to yourself (you really want to make sure you get the right size bike for you). You'll also be able to see for yourself the range of prices and some bike shops will sell refurbished bikes with a short warranty.

Knaight

2016-05-12, 02:41 AM

I used to bike about 160 km/week, but I wouldn't say I'm into bicycles. They get me from point A to point B.

As for what's good in bikes, there's a few things to look for. You want minimal rust (particularly on the chain), you want gears that work smoothly without catching, and you want breaks that work. All three of those can be checked pretty easily. Tubes and tires are easy to replace, but if the person selling the bike has let them get bad, that's not a good sign; the pressure should be decently high (how high depends on the bike), and the tires shouldn't be cracked. There's a problem where seats kept too high can damage the back of their slot, so check that. Beyond that, bikes are an area where brand names are pretty reliable. Trek, Specialized, Raleigh, and the other big brands are all pretty solid, and I can personally vouch for the three listed by name. Sama bikes are gigantic pieces of junk that should be avoided.

If you're just going for cheap, see if there's a university near you that sells surplus. Some students just abandon their bikes on locks at the end of the term, and those can be picked up for cheap. Will they be any good? No. Will you at least get a pretty good frame out of it, which with some minimal repairs at least gets to usable? Sure.

goto124

2016-05-12, 03:00 AM

Is there a non-pedaled variety of cycling?

Knaight

2016-05-12, 03:07 AM

Is there a non-pedaled variety of cycling?

Motorcycling.

Neftren

2016-05-12, 09:29 AM

Roads here in Southern California are excellent. I wanted something with rear rack and fenders for a while, but I've accepted that it never rains here, and I'm content riding to work with just a backpack.

I'm more frugal than "cheap" so I'm not averse to spending a little more to get something high quality. My budget is roughly up to $1k total (bike + helmet + clothing + accessories). I found a 2005 Specialized Roubaix Elite Triple for $550 on Craigslist (yes, in my size), which seems like a great deal on a carbon frame and reasonably high end parts, but I question why an 11 year old bike with a $2k+ MSRP is selling at a fraction of the price. Do bikes really lose their value that quickly?

I'll check out my local bike shop(s) as well.

Knaight

2016-05-12, 12:04 PM

I'm more frugal than "cheap" so I'm not averse to spending a little more to get something high quality. My budget is roughly up to $1k total (bike + helmet + clothing + accessories). I found a 2005 Specialized Roubaix Elite Triple for $550 on Craigslist (yes, in my size), which seems like a great deal on a carbon frame and reasonably high end parts, but I question why an 11 year old bike with a $2k+ MSRP is selling at a fraction of the price. Do bikes really lose their value that quickly?

It's more that it's hard to sell for a huge amount on craiglist, and there's an immediate drop for not new. Plus, MSRP is generally above new cost anyways. If the bike is in good shape, this sounds like a good deal.

As for the total budget, you don't really need specialized clothing unless you're going pretty long distance, I wouldn't bother. A bike, a helmet, some lights, and a water bottle carrier if there isn't one on the bike currently pretty much covers it.

Lethologica

2016-05-12, 12:15 PM

Bike swaps in your area are another good place to look for gear.

Peelee

2016-05-12, 12:20 PM

Knaight

2016-05-12, 03:06 PM

I actually need to fix my bike. The gears won't change anymore, and there's a metal wire we've found which is loose. I'm loathe to take it to a bike shop, as I'm fairly certain that the costs for repairs will be more than the bike is worth, and I simply don't have enough money to even buy a new cheap one, let alone drop the kind of cash a repair or a new quality one would cost, so I'm probably gonna have to figure our how to fix it myself.

For the wire - is it a brake line or a gear line, and where is it loose? As for the gears, when's the last time you oiled the chain and gears, and what did you oil it with?

There might be alternatives other than bike shops. For instance, my town has a co-op where you can get repairs done for vastly less than at a bike shop, you just pay for the time it takes a volunteer to show you how to do it (it's still $10 and hour), and the parts, which are also vastly less than at a bike shop. Whether this is viable depends on your budget, but I've gotten good results using mine, and saved a good two-three hundred dollars by not doing bike shop repairs - and this is over at least ten thousand miles on one bike, with total coop repair costs under $100.

Peelee

2016-05-12, 03:41 PM

For the wire - is it a brake line or a gear line, and where is it loose? As for the gears, when's the last time you oiled the chain and gears, and what did you oil it with?

There might be alternatives other than bike shops. For instance, my town has a co-op where you can get repairs done for vastly less than at a bike shop, you just pay for the time it takes a volunteer to show you how to do it (it's still $10 and hour), and the parts, which are also vastly less than at a bike shop. Whether this is viable depends on your budget, but I've gotten good results using mine, and saved a good two-three hundred dollars by not doing bike shop repairs - and this is over at least ten thousand miles on one bike, with total coop repair costs under $100.

.....gear line? Breaks work great, gearshift on the left handlebar works fine, but the right handle gearshift won't click in place and moves freely. It's a thin wire what seems loose. I can take a picture if that can help at all. Thing still rides, it's just effectively a fixed gear at the moment. Happened not too long ago, when we had gotten settled into our new house and I was excited to start biking around the (delightfully flatter than I'm used to) neighborhood. My wife wanted to ride it for a minute, she accidentally scraped it by a big stone drain on the side of the road, and now it's all wonked up.

Knaight

2016-05-12, 04:02 PM

.....gear line? Breaks work great, gearshift on the left handlebar works fine, but the right handle gearshift won't click in place and moves freely. It's a thin wire what seems loose. I can take a picture if that can help at all. Thing still rides, it's just effectively a fixed gear at the moment. Happened not too long ago, when we had gotten settled into our new house and I was excited to start biking around the (delightfully flatter than I'm used to) neighborhood. My wife wanted to ride it for a minute, she accidentally scraped it by a big stone drain on the side of the road, and now it's all wonked up.

That sounds like it's either the derailer on the back or (more likely, if clicking in place is a problem) damage to the right handle gearshift itself. There should be a small metal piece that the line loops through, loosening that up and retightening the line might work, depending on what the damage to the gearshift itself is. There's the possibility that the line just got knocked out of a groove, and that's an easy fix.

On the bright side, unless the bike really sucks the repairs are probably going to be cheaper than a cheap bike even at a bike shop.

Peelee

2016-05-12, 04:19 PM

That sounds like it's either the derailer on the back or (more likely, if clicking in place is a problem) damage to the right handle gearshift itself. There should be a small metal piece that the line loops through, loosening that up and retightening the line might work, depending on what the damage to the gearshift itself is. There's the possibility that the line just got knocked out of a groove, and that's an easy fix.

On the bright side, unless the bike really sucks the repairs are probably going to be cheaper than a cheap bike even at a bike shop.

Huzzah! Thanks for the advice. I'm not scared to take it in to try to get it fixed now.

monomer

2016-05-12, 04:23 PM

I actually need to fix my bike. The gears won't change anymore, and there's a metal wire we've found which is loose. I'm loathe to take it to a bike shop, as I'm fairly certain that the costs for repairs will be more than the bike is worth, and I simply don't have enough money to even buy a new cheap one, let alone drop the kind of cash a repair or a new quality one would cost, so I'm probably gonna have to figure our how to fix it myself.

You can tighten the wire pretty easily with a pair of pliers and a screwdriver. Just follow the wire to one of the end-point (probably on the rear derailleur based on your description), loosen the screw that is holding it in place, pull the wire tight with your pliers, then screw it back in. If you can pull it tight enough, you should be able to get your shifting working again. If the cable is completely borked, you may have to buy a new one, though any decent neighborhood shop should be able to install it for you for a small fee since it only takes a couple minutes. No harm in going over and asking.

That said, you could also research your area to see if there are any used bike shops or bike co-ops around, since these usually also act as biking ambassadors for the community, and they'll either offer free or cheap tune-ups, and workshops on how to maintain your bike yourself.

Peelee

2016-05-12, 04:30 PM

On the one hand, from what research I've done in the biking community, most people seem to try to not discourage people like me who get dirt cheap bikes because we can't afford better, and would rather focus on welcoming people into the world of biking; on the other hand, I can't help but feel they would be somewhat judgemental of me getting basically a Wal*Mart bike and spending money trying to get it fixed, which is (along with the price range I initially thought it would be) why I was avoiding taking it to a shop to get it fixed.

cobaltstarfire

2016-05-12, 04:34 PM

Is anyone here into cycling?

I haven't been on a bike since high school, but after moving to sunny California, I've been tempted to buy a road bike and check out some of the nearby trails. I've been poking around Craigslist, but not sure what is a good deal or what to look for in a bike. Any advice?

You should keep in mind that bikes for roads and bikes for trails aren't really the same kind of bike. A trail is likely to damage the rims on a road bike, and a bike for trails is going to be a pain to use on the road because it'll be harder to quickly and easily reach a good speed. Though there probably are bikes with tires/rims that can handle both and just not be super optimal, which will be just fine for you probably?

About the only other real advice that hasn't been given yet is to not use WD-40 for lubricating/protecting your chain. WD-40 is a solvent, it's fine for cleaning your chain and stuff, but it isn't very useful by itself as a lube. I used Rock 'N' Roll when I was in school, it did a very good job at protecting my chain from water and dust, works well in hot or cold weather and it was only about 8 dollars at the time.

edit: Oh I'd also recommend self sealing tubes for your tires, they did pretty good at their job.

One other reason you may want to find a middle of the line bike if you want to do both roads and trails, is that bikes made only for roads and such usually havelittle to no shock absorption, the handles are different, the seat is different, it'll be really uncomfortable to ride unless the trails are paved.

Neftren

2016-05-12, 04:41 PM

Lethologica

2016-05-12, 04:41 PM

monomer

2016-05-12, 05:04 PM

Sorry, when I say "trail" I mean "paved asphalt and concrete" ... nice, flat, smooth ground.

Even then, on a fairly high-end bike like the Roubaix you mentioned, it is going to be a harsh ride, though the carbon frame will help slightly. The tires are inflated to 80 psi, and you are going to feel every pebble. See if you can try it out first, or go for a test ride at a local shop to see if you'll actually enjoy riding a true road bike. I was in the market for a decent road bike last year, and wound up going with a cyclocross bike instead as my commuter since they have slightly fatter wheels.

I should also point out that on such a bike, you're going to need cycling shoes to clip in to the pedals. Regular shoes won't cut it.

caledoniaman

2016-05-12, 05:06 PM

I do a 7 mile commute to work (the remainder by train with the bike) then the full 20 miles home. Can be hard going after a days work but it's all about the buzz at the end of it.

Neftren

2016-05-12, 05:23 PM

Even then, on a fairly high-end bike like the Roubaix you mentioned, it is going to be a harsh ride, though the carbon frame will help slightly. The tires are inflated to 80 psi, and you are going to feel every pebble. See if you can try it out first, or go for a test ride at a local shop to see if you'll actually enjoy riding a true road bike. I was in the market for a decent road bike last year, and wound up going with a cyclocross bike instead as my commuter since they have slightly fatter wheels.

Well, sure, but that's a given whether I'm on a street or on a paved asphalt trail, no? Here in Southern California, it's quite literally the same surfacing whether on the trail that parallels the flood control system, or a regular road.

I should also point out that on such a bike, you're going to need cycling shoes to clip in to the pedals. Regular shoes won't cut it.

Okay, now that's something that's good to know. I know cycling cleats are a thing, but I wasn't sure which pedals needed them, and which don't. Is there any way to tell in advance, say if I knew what pedals were attached?

FinnLassie

2016-05-12, 05:27 PM

Cycling has really always been the norm for me up until the day that my beloved ride got stolen. :smallfrown: Now trying to get back to it after 1,5 years. Got myself a bike with a good and rare as hell frame, brakes work alright but all of the wiring needs to change (shredded & rusted). The seat is completely busted... And well, trying to decide what kind of wheels I want for it, as I use my bike both in the city and off road. I just want those sweet, sweet wheels back from my old bike! And oh, yeah... the gears need a total fix as well...

Now, if only I had the money to do all of this work at once would be great. :smallyuk:

Lethologica

2016-05-12, 05:31 PM

Okay, now that's something that's good to know. I know cycling cleats are a thing, but I wasn't sure which pedals needed them, and which don't. Is there any way to tell in advance, say if I knew what pedals were attached?
Pedals do determine cleats, but pedals are easily changed. Odds are you're familiar with the sort of pedals that don't need cleats--squares that rotate through the middle. Some of those have a clear side and a non-cleat side, but most cleated pedals are shaped differently, and take a particular style of cleat. It's still all down to your personal preference, of course.

monomer

2016-05-12, 05:48 PM

Okay, now that's something that's good to know. I know cycling cleats are a thing, but I wasn't sure which pedals needed them, and which don't. Is there any way to tell in advance, say if I knew what pedals were attached?

Yeah, there are basically two types of cleat systems: Shimano SPD, and Look. If you aren't sure which type you'll get, there is an option to get shoes with a universal mount which can be swapped out for either type.

There are also, as Lethologica mentioned, just standard flat rectangles, though I'd be surprised to see those on a Carbon Fiber Roubaix or any other semi-serious road bike. You never know, though.

2D8HP

2016-05-12, 09:20 PM

I have never worked in a bicycle shop, but for what it's worth I have alot of old bikes, live a half mile from two good shops, and worked for seven years at a motorcycle shop where many of my co-workers really liked bicycles as well (many also liked cars, but only one liked all three).
Used bikes from neighbors and bike shops are often cheaper and last longer than "bargains" from major retailer's. You don't need to spend much money to have big fun. In fact, until you get more practiced and find out more what you like I would advise you not to spend hardly any at all, except on initial repairs to get the bike safe (also even when you get another bike it's good to have one to practice repairs on, if your so inclined).
You'll probably be unpleasantly surprised how expensive (and worth it) the initial "tune up" is, but unless I've just been usually lucky afterwards, keeping it in "tune" is really cheap.
They are lots of good books at the Library, one I recommend is "Bike Touring" by Raymond Bridge.
If (and when) you want to make it a hobby to spend money on (your spending is someone else's income, so be a good citizen:smallsmile:), my favorite still in print magazine is http://www.bikequarterly.com (Bicycle Quarterly) which is great!

Peelee

2016-05-13, 12:03 AM

See, that's the thing. I just wanna ride it around the neighborhood to help lose weight. I don't think I'll ever be going to the state park and riding down the mountain trails. We bought it so i could bike to class from our apartment, so high quality wasn't a huge concern. Just getting me to class in 5 minutes compared to the 15-20 it took to walk was all i needed out of it.

At this point, i just want it to work so i can start trying to lose this pudge.

FinnLassie

2016-05-13, 03:23 AM

Can someone tell me what's the point with those only-metal-super-pointy-owey pedals, btw?

Knaight

2016-05-13, 08:23 AM

You should keep in mind that bikes for roads and bikes for trails aren't really the same kind of bike. A trail is likely to damage the rims on a road bike, and a bike for trails is going to be a pain to use on the road because it'll be harder to quickly and easily reach a good speed. Though there probably are bikes with tires/rims that can handle both and just not be super optimal, which will be just fine for you probably?
I use a mountain bike on the road all the time, and it works just fine for that. Does it get up to speed as quickly as an actual roadbike? No. Does it work vastly better on roads than a road bike does for inclement weather, dirt roads, gravel roads, poorly maintained roads, or basically any number of actual road riding conditions? Absolutely.

About the only other real advice that hasn't been given yet is to not use WD-40 for lubricating/protecting your chain. WD-40 is a solvent, it's fine for cleaning your chain and stuff, but it isn't very useful by itself as a lube. I used Rock 'N' Roll when I was in school, it did a very good job at protecting my chain from water and dust, works well in hot or cold weather and it was only about 8 dollars at the time.

edit: Oh I'd also recommend self sealing tubes for your tires, they did pretty good at their job.
WD-40 is better than nothing, so if your chain has gotten bad and it's what you have on hand it's worth using. Followed by getting a better lubricant afterwards.

As for self sealing tubes, there's also the wonders of slime.

Can someone tell me what's the point with those only-metal-super-pointy-owey pedals, btw?
They clip into specialized shoes, which gives better grip on the pedals. Plus, it's a way to shave a bit of weight off.

cobaltstarfire

2016-05-13, 10:02 AM

I honestly don't much like road bikes cause they're too hard of a ride on my wrists and such, but that's what I ended up getting when I was in college and it worked well for the hillyness and stuff. (I started wearing wrist wrapes when I road and that helped stop most of the wrist pains I got from riding)

I also road on the actual road, not on sidewalks, as it's not legal to ride on the sidewalks so I put a very big premium on being able to get up to speed very quickly and maintaining it easily. (didn't save me from eventually getting hit by some jackass rolling through a stop sign, or getting ticketted for it because other bikers run stop signs so clearly I must have too...in fact had I run that stop sign I would have never been hit! Stupid campus police...)

About the only time I ever would have liked bigger tires was to ride up curbs without fear of damaging my rims to more quickly get to the bike racks. A bit of sand, dirt, grass, or water isn't really going to hurt someone on a road bike.

Sounds like it's really a matter of taste, what you want from the bike, and just how terrible the roads and weather can get.

But yes, self sealing tubes are super. The area I road around wasn't really that bad for things that could puncture it, but I still got a lot of flats before swapping to self sealing tubes. That's probably also a symptom of the smaller tires on a road bike but self sealing tubes fix that weakness.

Neftren

2016-05-13, 08:49 PM

Yeah, there are basically two types of cleat systems: Shimano SPD, and Look. If you aren't sure which type you'll get, there is an option to get shoes with a universal mount which can be swapped out for either type.

There are also, as Lethologica mentioned, just standard flat rectangles, though I'd be surprised to see those on a Carbon Fiber Roubaix or any other semi-serious road bike. You never know, though.

It looks like the bike in question comes without pedals, which possibly puts a damper on test riding the thing. I'm trying to set up a meeting to at least look at the bike though.

If I did buy the bike, would I be crazy to put "regular shoe" pedals on a road bike?

Lethologica

2016-05-13, 08:57 PM

FinnLassie

2016-05-14, 03:54 AM

They clip into specialized shoes, which gives better grip on the pedals. Plus, it's a way to shave a bit of weight off.

Ah, I figured. Totally can understand those pedals on more of the sportier road bikes and such, but I was testing out a "just your regular joe" bike at one point and it had those pedals. It just felt... Completely unnecessary.

BannedInSchool

2016-05-14, 08:39 AM

Cycling shoes also have a thin, inflexible sole so it's more like walking in bare feet instead of soft shoes, and you're not spending effort compressing your shoe's sole, just pushing the pedal. You can also power the pedal around most of the circle with your foot attached to the pedal, which means less muscle force for the same power, and spinning faster in a lower gear without having to worry about your feet coming off gives even less muscle force. Spinning your feet around, like turning a crank, is easier on your muscles than basically walking up stairs for an hour. If you're going to spend any time riding I think it makes a huge amount of difference. Also, even if you're not going off paved trails, MTB shoes are easier to walk around in, so going SPD with MTB shoes is convenient if you're going to get off the bike along the way.

Neftren

2016-05-14, 11:53 AM

False economy. A lot of the virtues of a road bike are sharply blunted without cleats. If you're gonna choose convenient but inefficient pedaling, laying down half a grand for the more efficient, less comfortable, less versatile bike is wasteful. Get an upright commuter or mountain bike instead.

I do want to repeat that there are pedals that work either way, though. So you can use cleats for riding trips while eschewing them for just getting around.

Well, I'd like to ride the bike to work without having to bring a pair of cycling cleats. I'm not opposed to buying a pair of cycling cleats for long weekend rides though ... if there are pedals that work for both use-cases, great!

DodgerH2O

2016-05-14, 01:16 PM

I'm more frugal than "cheap" so I'm not averse to spending a little more to get something high quality. My budget is roughly up to $1k total (bike + helmet + clothing + accessories).

I think for general trail and commuting purposes your budget is far more than adequate and you'll be satisfied with whatever you get, assuming the fit is right. If you're new to cycling I'd suggest a more general purpose bike, high quality above $500 or so is assured (IMO), at that point it's about the right bike for your needs.

If you can get an excellent used bike for a good price you can also easily customize the parts with the money you save, really you're buying a frame and a set of accessories. Seats, handlebars, pedals and the assorted "plumbing" are all replaceable with a bit of work (and within the limits of the frame you have).

FinnLassie

2016-05-14, 02:55 PM

Can we like totally share pics of our bikes at some point? I kinda want to show off my beauty. :smalltongue:

Peelee

2016-05-14, 04:07 PM

Can we like totally share pics of our bikes at some point? I kinda want to show off my beauty. :smalltongue:

idontwannafeelbad

FinnLassie

2016-05-14, 04:26 PM

idontwannafeelbad

Honestly, the bike is a piece of crap. The frame is just a really rare one. I've never seen one before I got mine, and there's only one or two sources about it on the internet... and it was produced by a rather big company, too. Dunno how many they actually made though.

Knaight

2016-05-14, 11:20 PM

Well, I'd like to ride the bike to work without having to bring a pair of cycling cleats. I'm not opposed to buying a pair of cycling cleats for long weekend rides though ... if there are pedals that work for both use-cases, great!

I've done a 16 mile commute on a mountain bike before, and that was with normal shoes and pedals made for normal shoes. If you're reasonably close to work, you'll be fine without specialized cleats. I just wouldn't recommend a road bike in that case, although part of that is that I don't particularly like road bikes to begin with.

MrZJunior

2016-05-15, 12:12 PM

You could get toe clips mounted on your pedals, they'll give you some of the advantages of cleats while still allowing you to use regular shoes.

I have been using a hybrid bike to commute for a couple years now and I have been very happy with it. It's lighter and easier to ride than a mountain bike while being sturdier and more versatile than a road bike.

Neftren

2016-05-15, 01:22 PM

So I checked out that bike today. The frame is in good condition, if a bit grimy. Seat post was a little tight to adjust, but I think that's due to the accumulated dirt and dust. It was used as a triathlon bike, so I figure that's par for the course. Front brakes were noticeably weaker than I expected, rear brakes were okay. Tires/rims are in good shape, both front and rear derailleurs shift cleanly, but I was not a fan of the handlebars or shifters. All in all, a very snappy ride, and surprisingly smooth on asphalt. Incredibly quick to accelerate. This thing is light (like, I can comfortably lift with one hand light).

The asking price is $550. I like it a lot, but I figure I'll have to put a few hundred bucks and a few hours into it before I'll be comfortable riding it day-to-day -- is that a realistic assessment?

MrZJunior

2016-05-15, 02:01 PM

The asking price is $550. I like it a lot, but I figure I'll have to put a few hundred bucks and a few hours into it before I'll be comfortable riding it day-to-day -- is that a realistic assessment?

Sounds reasonable to me. You can get solutions for cleaning bikes, but my understanding is that giving a bike a properly thorough cleaning is quite a job, your local bike shop would be happy to do it for you, but I'm not sure how much that would cost. It might be worth it to have an expert look the thing over just in case there's any major issues you didn't notice.

As to the hand bars, how major an issue is it? It might be the kind of thing you get used to with time.

I'll assume since you took it for a spin that the bike comes with pedals.

DodgerH2O

2016-05-15, 02:45 PM

The asking price is $550. I like it a lot, but I figure I'll have to put a few hundred bucks and a few hours into it before I'll be comfortable riding it day-to-day -- is that a realistic assessment?

That sounds reasonable to me. If you just swapped out the handlebars and shifters at a shop it'd probably eat up the few hundred (like auto shops, a lot of the price is labor) so if you're mechanically inclined I'd suggest a co-op repair place like others have mentioned or try to figure it out yourself. An entirely decent set of bike tools can be had for under 50 dollars (at least ten years ago when I got mine) and then you'd have it for any fixes/modifications you'd want in the future.

Edit: Just did some checking and while I've personally found my kit has worked for 90% of applications, it is missing a couple of specialty tools, and is now running ~80 dollars (MSRP).

FinnLassie

2016-06-10, 11:18 AM

I got tired of the idea of fixing my old bike - too much hassle. That, and it got stolen. Oh well, I'm too tired to care. I only paid like 30 euros for it. Sigh, I hope someone gives the Fjällräven ATB bike a better life. But honestly try googling the bike. Very little information on them, and no mention of it in Fjällräven's history - or at least what I've tried to look for. I've seen like one or two of these bikes before, so I don't think someone has just slapped a sticker on it or anything. Hmm. Oh well. Meh.

BUT ANYWAYS MEET MY NEW BABY that totally made me bankrupt. and i am totally replacing my ex with this bike like whatever

http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y387/smathsinfionnghal/avatars/13435582_675190449298299_6299218761286349331_n_zps 5343kcfx.jpg
Here's my honeybun, lil' mister Focus, lookin' sexy as hell. Suggestions for a name are welcome. :smallsmile:

It also felt good to support a local independet cycling business rather than getting the thing at a chain store of some sorts, even if it was a tad more expensive.

:smile::cool: