Best way to remove Superglue from pewter miniatures?

[Lord Torath]

I just purchased an old Rogue Trader/2E 40k era carnifex off eBay. And some idiot glued the pelvis on backward! :smallannoyed: What's the best way to dissolve the super glue so I can glue it on right?

Possibly-relevant info:

This model appears to be pewter (placing it firmly in the 2E 40k era, I believe), and while I've already primed it, I don't mind re-priming it, so protecting the paint is not a concern. It is also separated from its base, so I don't need to worry about accidentally dissolving any plastic. I'm in the USA, as that can dictate what chemicals are commercially available.

[Brookshw]

I believe brake fluid is popular.

[Wraith]

Any kind of paint stripper will work fine. I recommend the cheaper store-brand versions, as the specialist brand-named ones tend to be TOO caustic and can do terrible things to your skin and sinuses.

Just make sure it's paint stripper and not paint thinner; soak in a bowl for 10 minutes and it should prize apart in your fingers. Soak for another 10 minutes and the dried glue will scratch off with your thumbnail.

[Kaptin Keen]

Back when I had any sort of truck with miniatures .... I'd just break them apart. The pewter is stronger than the glue, so it should* work. Then scrape anything you don't want off with a scalpel.

*Disclaimer: Not liable in case of any magnitude - large or small - of disaster.

[Eldan]

Breaking apart works for really hefty model parts that won't bend. Even then, only try it if you have two. Soaking the glue in some kind of paint remover first is still better. Even then, for larger parts, some breaking and scraping might be involved.

[snowblizz]

If you don't want to mess about with chemicals. Hot water. Make sure it's not got a base though. The plastic does not like the stresses of it. It may or may not take the primer off. Let it soak a bit, it should come off significantly easier than just breaking it apart.

The best part is if it doesn't work you can have a cuppa while thinking about option B.

For almost harmless option of paint stripper that will take the glue too I believe, in the US you have Simple Green. It's what everyone always told me to use and could easily be bought at Walmart. If I had lived in the US and Walmarts that is. I was always greatly annoyed by that offhand simple green option.

[Lord Torath]

If you don't want to mess about with chemicals. Hot water. Make sure it's not got a base though. The plastic does not like the stresses of it. It may or may not take the primer off. Let it soak a bit, it should come off significantly easier than just breaking it apart.

The best part is if it doesn't work you can have a cuppa while thinking about option B.

For almost harmless option of paint stripper that will take the glue too I believe, in the US you have Simple Green. It's what everyone always told me to use and could easily be bought at Walmart. If I had lived in the US and Walmarts that is. I was always greatly annoyed by that offhand simple green option.Simple Green is pretty effective on acrylic-based paints, but it doesn't do anything to super glue, at least in my experience. I don't think it's what people are referring to when they say "paint stripper".

I've tried prying it, but I've inflicted minor surface damage to the part without noticeably affecting the strength of the super glue bond.

I've got some acetone I can try. As mentioned above, the plastic base has already been removed, so accidentally dissolving it is not a worry. Are latex gloves proof against acetone? I think it's time for some googling.

Edit: From Sciencing.com: What Gloves Should Be Used for Handling Acetone? (https://sciencing.com/gloves-should-used-acetone-8536346.html)
Looks like latex will block acetone for about 10 minutes, while nitrile gloves will only last 4 minutes. I think ten minutes should be plenty, since I won't be touching the acetone much, just letting the parts sit in it for ten minutes or so. And I already have some latex gloves. :smallsmile:

And it looks like Acetone should should work well: Removing Super Glue (http://www.supergluecorp.com/?q=removingsuperglue.html).

[snowblizz]

Absolutely any substance I've ever used to strip paint, including real paint stripper, ruins the glue bonds of super glue. I'm surprised the gluebond holds up so well.

I'm willing to entertain the idea that someone used something much more substantial to glue it together though than bog standard cyano-acrylate.

Also if it is pinned, then it would be orders of magnitude harder to break apart.


Acetone should do it I would think. Never personally wanted to mess around with it though.

[chinthechilla]

I just purchased an old Rogue Trader/2E 40k era carnifex off eBay. And some idiot glued the pelvis on backward! :smallannoyed: What's the best way to dissolve the super glue so I can glue it on right?

Possibly-relevant info:

This model appears to be pewter (placing it firmly in the 2E 40k era, I believe), and while I've already primed it, I don't mind re-priming it, so protecting the paint is not a concern. It is also separated from its base, so I don't need to worry about accidentally dissolving any plastic. I'm in the USA, as that can dictate what chemicals are commercially available.

Original Pine-Sol.

[Ornithologist]

Acetone, or for a more unusual solution that works sometimes:

Freeze the model. Most Glues become brittle and shatter easily when extremely cold.

[Lord Torath]

Also, when it comes to Acetone, proper disposal is important (https://www.msdsonline.com/2013/06/18/acetone-the-hidden-hazard/).
Acetone disposal needs to be handled according to how much is being used. If you are using acetone for a small item, like removing nail polish, you can dispose them in a metal container lined with a plastic garbage bag; this bag can then be placed with regular garbage. However, if you have a fully saturated cotton ball or rag, you need to squeeze the excess acetone liquid into a container that will seal tightly, double-bag the material and then place into a regular garbage bag.