The Warhammer models thread [picture intensive!] [Archive]

Bryn

2008-09-15, 04:38 PM

Basically, this thread arose from the discussion on the 40k Tactics thread. A few people have posted pictures of their models, so I suggested a thread for that very purpose! This is that thread.

This thread is for both Warhammer 40k and Fantasy. Any era of models is fine! Fantastic conversions are great, but any models are fine. Don't worry about painting standard, we're not judgemental, and we should be able to provide some helpful advice to improve!

To get the ball rolling, here are a couple of my tanks...
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/267/russfullbv9.png
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/3597/russbackcu5.png
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/8729/russfull2di7.png
Mars Alpha Pattern Leman Russ

http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/427/hellhoundfulltz1.png
Artemia Pattern Hellhound

...and a Techpriest.
http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/8831/techpriest01szm6.png
http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/6803/techpriest02scr4.png
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/5493/techpriest03syj2.png

I'll be interested in hearing critiques on those. Also, when I take some more photos (and when I paint the bases) I will post some Guardsmen as well, including a few conversions.

YPU

2008-09-15, 04:54 PM

Destro_Yersul

2008-09-15, 04:57 PM

Those are good. Simple and kind of rough, which works very well for Guard. Guard shouldn't be clean. The tech-priest could use a few touch-ups on his robe though.

Unfortunately I can't upload any new photos to the web cause the internet hates me, but I've got some older ones.

Chaplain, who has since been finished:
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/ArtemistheHunter/Warhammer/chappyfront.jpg?t=1221515943
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/ArtemistheHunter/Warhammer/chappyleft.jpg?t=1221515985
he now has red eyes and a finished base, as well as more servo-skulls following him around.
Librarian:
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/ArtemistheHunter/Warhammer/librarianfront.jpg?t=1221516007
My Chaos Dreadnought:
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/uploads/1144445899/gallery_17464_564_43314.jpg
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/uploads/1144445899/gallery_17464_564_32590.jpg
A pair of Aspiring Champions and some of their WIP friends, also more of the first Aspiring Champion. Apologies for quality:
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/uploads/1147738243/gallery_17464_564_563.jpg
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/uploads/1146242454/med_gallery_17464_564_48220.jpg
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/uploads/1144445899/gallery_17464_564_13348.jpg
And a sideways Chaos Sorcerer type:
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/uploads/1144445899/gallery_17464_564_3620.jpg

feel free to point out all the ways in which they are bad. Or good, whichever you prefer.

Bryn

2008-09-15, 05:52 PM

The last russ image needs a resize, its really overstretched.
Other than that, your tank painting is real good. Looks quite realistic and “hard”
Your human looks somewhat gritty painted, something that does well with orks but not so much humans.
And is that a forgeworld techy?

Oops! It wasn't obvious from the thumbnail how big that was going to be.

The techpriest is indeed kinda messy. The lighting in the photos is pretty bad, and ideally I'd sort that out. I admit that I'm not a neat painter. Any advice for improving the techpriest other than getting the bits I haven't covered? Not sure what you mean by gritty, or how I can sort it out.

The techpriest is indeed a Forge World Titan Techpriest. This means he's the most fragile model in my army, and the servo-arms have snapped at least twice (but fortunately always fixable with some superglue).

SolkaTruesilver

2008-09-16, 12:01 AM

Z-Axis, by "gritty", we mean that your models looks taken out of some.. err.. scriptures? Gravures? They don't look like "photos" of soldiers, but very, very old depictions.

Which is very nice, in itself, I have to admit. If you are aiming for a "legendary" regiment, and epic battle depiction, I think your style is much more appreciated. Personnally, I aim for a more "high-tech" battle feeling, which is why I try to put colors differently.

Here are the babies I made so far. Hmm.. damn it, I haven't taken picture of 10 other regular guardsmen. But on the other hand, they are very, very much the same than the one you see here... :smallbiggrin:

http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp86/SolkaTruesilver/LemanRussTank-HighDefinition.jpg
http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp86/SolkaTruesilver/LemanRussTank-HighDefinition2.jpg
http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp86/SolkaTruesilver/ImperialSoldiers.jpg
http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp86/SolkaTruesilver/ImperialSoldiers2.jpg

I hope to increase further more my army in the next months. I know my friend just came in with 2 Officers and 2 Commissars, so at least, I'll have someone to command my army, and someone to shoot them when they fail.

LordVader

2008-09-16, 05:30 AM

Eh, I like the look, Guard tanks ain't meant to be pretty. Leave that to the Eldar. :smallwink:

But seriously, I do like the scheme, the battleworn look is cool.

Mc. Lovin'

2008-09-16, 05:44 AM

http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/2806/75768805zi6.png
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/9184/84375956ma8.png
http://img224.imageshack.us/img224/8687/55376617gi7.png

Those are some guys I painted ages ago, I'm not as good now but I do OK I reckon :smallbiggrin:

Critiques? Comments? Etc?

Chaplain, who has since been finished:
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/ArtemistheHunter/Warhammer/chappyfront.jpg?t=1221515943
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/ArtemistheHunter/Warhammer/chappyleft.jpg?t=1221515985
he now has red eyes and a finished base, as well as more servo-skulls following him around.

I love that guy! Nice work

Eldan

2008-09-16, 11:25 AM

I just love this guy:
Anti-Infantry Wraithlord of Reianar

http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/420/cimg0698bg6.jpg

Lorn

2008-09-16, 01:45 PM

I haven't done any painting for a long time, but here's some of my older work as it began to get decent:

First, the APU (see: Matrix Revolutions) guy. Used as an Inquisitor/Lord in Terminator or Artificer armour with a mastercrafted psycannon.
Warning: There are a LOT of pics in the spoiler. Like, nine. Very proud of that model.

Unpainted:
http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq156/Anatheus/WH40K/P1010169.jpg
http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq156/Anatheus/WH40K/P1010171.jpg
http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq156/Anatheus/WH40K/P1010172.jpg
http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq156/Anatheus/WH40K/P1010173.jpg

Painted:
http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq156/Anatheus/WH40K/P1010240.jpg
http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq156/Anatheus/WH40K/P1010241.jpg
http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq156/Anatheus/WH40K/P1010242.jpg
http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq156/Anatheus/WH40K/P1010244.jpg
http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq156/Anatheus/WH40K/P1010245.jpg

He was made from a Sentinel, head from the Catachan sprue, autocannons from the IG heavy weapon sprue, and the arms on the sentinel were taken from assault terminators. Lightning claws specifically.

E: Oh, the lighting played around with the colours on him a bit - he isn't gold, he's primarily boltgun metal. Well, the APU itself that is.

More of my stuff will most likely come at a later date, specifically when I can find the camera. I have some webcam images but they're horrible and tiny and bad quality >.>

Mc. Lovin'

2008-09-16, 04:09 PM

I just love this guy:
Anti-Infantry Wraithlord of Reianar

http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/420/cimg0698bg6.jpg

Wowsers, he's pretty sweet!

I hate painting tank like stuff, how do you manage to make it look good?

Also at Z, I suggest adding a "Picture intensive" warning to the thread title? :smallsmile:

...Pirates?

2008-09-16, 04:09 PM

And here was me thinking of suggesting a similar thread!

Edit: I take it we can do Fantasy models too here?

onasuma

2008-09-16, 04:14 PM

Im not a painter myself, however, i do love a bit of greenstuff and some bitz. Just one for now, but heres my chaos lord:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/078.jpg
EDIT: As soon as I find my camera, Ill put up my slaaneshi penitent.

Eldan

2008-09-16, 04:34 PM

How I'm good at painting the wraithlord? Simple. He has no small details.
No, honestly. I suck at the human-sized models. Can't draw eyes, or uniforms or anything. Except maybe with drybrushing. I'll go dig around my box and see what else I can find.

Bryn

2008-09-16, 04:41 PM

And here was me thinking of suggesting a similar thread!

Edit: I take it we can do Fantasy models too here?

Of course.

Also at Z, I suggest adding a "Picture intensive" warning to the thread title? :smallsmile:
Done and done!
[hr]
Thanks for the clarification on grittiness. I don't think I will change the techpriest, because I'm not very good at neat, flat, detail, so I doubt I'll change him and make him better. Since the background of the army is written entirely from the point of view of a future Inquisitor looking back, I guess it's appropriate, although these guys certainly ain't legendary by any stretch of the animation.
[hr]

Unfortunately I can't upload any new photos to the web cause the internet hates me, but I've got some older ones.

<snip>
I like the Chaplain and Librarian a lot. The chaplain is more precise than I could ever hope to be, with some lovely details (100% badass = :smallbiggrin:). The librarian is likewise very detailed, and the banner looks great.

With the Chaos stuff, it might just be the lighting, but the blue looks extremely bright, almost too bright. It doesn't seem so powerful in the picture of the infantry, though, so I suspect it's just the lighting.
[hr]

Here are the babies I made so far. Hmm.. damn it, I haven't taken picture of 10 other regular guardsmen. But on the other hand, they are very, very much the same than the one you see here... :smallbiggrin:
These look good, but it does look like these were taken with a camera with flash turned on, which gives extremely bright highlights and makes all the colours look stronger than they actually are. My advice is to turn flash off when you take pictures, instead relying on diffuse lighting to create the effect you want.

The colour scheme looks pretty good, but the super-bright specular highlights make it hard to talk about much else :smallwink:
[hr]
Apelord, I know you in RL, and you know that I know you in RL, and I'm going to stop now before it becomes too recursive. Anyway, you know that I think your models are fantastic, so I won't say any more.
[hr]

I just love this guy:
Anti-Infantry Wraithlord of Reianar
That looks like a great wraithguard! The blue looks particularly well done, and the glossy black front also looks great. I'm not sure whether or not you would be better off putting inks on the metallic bits or not, since ink shading would contrast with the very nice gradients and stuff on the blue. In short, very nice Wraithlord!
[hr]

I haven't done any painting for a long time, but here's some of my older work as it began to get decent:

First, the APU (see: Matrix Revolutions) guy. Used as an Inquisitor/Lord in Terminator or Artificer armour with a mastercrafted psycannon.
Warning: There are a LOT of pics in the spoiler. Like, nine. Very proud of that model.
I love this conversion! The modelling looks great, very creative use of the parts involved. The painting also seems pretty good, although I would reccomend putting some chestnut ink on his face to shade it (though it might already be shaded, the lighting makes it hard to tell).
[hr]
No time to photograph seventy-odd Guardsmen now, so that can wait until tomorrow (which is what I said yesterday :smallbiggrin:)

Eldan

2008-09-16, 04:48 PM

I ain't touching ink again. Back when I painted my first army, Skaven, I ruined an entire squad with ink. Then, two years later, when I was a little better at painting and tried it on my Eldar, I ruined my swooping hawks. I still have them, because I don't have the money to buy a new squad, but they look horrible.

Here's probably the best humanoid/detailed stuff I've done so far:

http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/1196/harlequinyc4.jpg

The painted half of my harlequin squad, two harlequin with the kiss and a death jester. The whole squad will include another kiss, a fusion pistol and a shadowseer who are currently being painted. Everyone says I have a gift for horrible combinations of colours. I'll do some more pictures tomorrow, it's getting late. The death jester deserves some more, he has a nicely done coat which you can't see from this angle.

Destro_Yersul

2008-09-16, 05:24 PM

I like the Chaplain and Librarian a lot. The chaplain is more precise than I could ever hope to be, with some lovely details (100% badass = :smallbiggrin:). The librarian is likewise very detailed, and the banner looks great.

With the Chaos stuff, it might just be the lighting, but the blue looks extremely bright, almost too bright. It doesn't seem so powerful in the picture of the infantry, though, so I suspect it's just the lighting.

Thank you. My favourite part about the chaplain is that the finished model is 95% plastic, and the only metal bits are servo skulls that follow him. I have a closeup of the banner somewhere...

I'm rather proud of my freehand, to be honest. It's what I've been working on most. And if I could get new pictures, you'd see the Daemon prince I have, who has no freehand but is the best Large Model I've done to date. Speaking of freehand, here's some more of it, including that banner close-up I mentioned:
The banner, taken with flash so you could see it properly
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/ArtemistheHunter/Warhammer/libbybanner.jpg?t=1221603672
The Chaplain's cloak, with an eagle that is totally centered and just doesn't look like it due to wavy folds :smallwink:
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/ArtemistheHunter/Warhammer/chappycloak.jpg?t=1221603732
The Chaplain's arm, with a painted crux terminatus and a hawk on the bolt pistol
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/ArtemistheHunter/Warhammer/chappyright.jpg?t=1221603795

As for the blue, I blame the flash. I used an older, crappier camera for those, and having the flash on was the only way to pick up detail at that distance. It's much less intense IRL, sort of a cross between Ice Blue and Turquoise.

Kane

2008-09-16, 06:22 PM

Very nice models, all. I'm not certain I like the Mars-pattern Leman Russ, but the painting is very nice. And I want an Artemia pattern hellhound now...

Also, Z-Axis, since you seem to be the authority on IG, do you know if the Sentinel is going to be removed in the next 'dex?

And as a final question, I've got a few, probably crappy, pictures of my Tau, but I'm not certain how to upload them. Any suggestions? I'm not as tech-adept as I'd like to be.

Mr._Blinky

2008-09-16, 07:51 PM

Ok, so I bought the new Assault on Blackreach box-set. Excellent purchase, vastly boosted the size of my army, so that now I can finally field a 2000 point for. However, let this be said:

I HATE THE SNAP TOGETHER TACTICAL MARINES!!!!!:smallfurious::smallfurious::smallfuri ous::smallfurious::smallfurious::smallfurious::sma llfurious:

Okay, so the Terminators? Snapped together just fine. The Captain? Just fine. The Dreadnaught? It looks a little bland, since you can't really pose it, but other than that it fit together perfectly find without my even having to glue it.

But the STUPID *)$#ING TACTICAL MARINES?! Hell no. Why? THE FREAKIN' ARMS DON'T FIT. I mean, yeah, I can get them into a decent position if I push really hard and hold it there, but as is the entire gun, which is connected through one snap and lets the other hand hang free, is pushed out so far that the hand that holds the trigger has its wrist pushed halfway out. In addition, that one snap point is far too small. Several of my marines showed strain almost to the point of cracking, if not actually cracking, when I had to force those things in. I'm sorry, but how can they not tell before shipping that these things just don't fit and need to be shaved down? [/rant]

Kane

2008-09-16, 08:27 PM

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Santiago874/Picture005.jpghttp://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Santiago874/Picture006.jpghttp://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Santiago874/Picture007.jpghttp://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Santiago874/Picture015.jpghttp://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Santiago874/Picture016.jpghttp://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Santiago874/Picture017.jpghttp://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Santiago874/Picture018.jpghttp://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Santiago874/Picture019.jpg

Big load, and a bit Fish-heavy, but those are the pictures I had. Also probably because that's all I have painted, and the majority of the time was spent on the fish. (In the vicinity of eight hours, more or less.)

And, this is my first army. Ever. First painted models. Ever.

Suggestions or advice are welcome.

I tried to go for an urban warfare scheme, and the grays and blues are there because of it. (Plus, you know, I like grays and blues.) some of those pictures make me think I need to go back over parts of the fish, but I think I'm pretty happy with them over all. The shiny thing on one of the FW bases is a bit of sprue I cut up and glue down, after painting it to look like broken or blasted metal. (Again, urban/city theme)

EDIT: GACK! I've definitely got to do more work on that devilish. Back especially.

Psychotic

2008-09-16, 10:16 PM

Wow, some of these are pretty well painted. If I had a decent camera here would've taken a few shots and put'em up for you.

onasuma

2008-09-17, 01:23 AM

Kane

2008-09-18, 10:12 AM

Does anyone have advice on making game tables and terrain? Specifically, Tau and Imperial terrain?

It seems that that's the next step for me, and it'd add a lot to the games we play.

Destro_Yersul

2008-09-18, 10:47 AM

General advice:

Imperial Architecture is very gothic. Lots of hard lines, flying buttresses, stained glass, and so on and so forth. It generally looks really boxy, though it will naturally have loads of pointy bits as wall, namely on spires and the tops of windows. Also, it is universally grey, dark grey and marble. The marble applies only to floors in chapels, which there are tons of. For good Examples, go HERE (http://uk.games-workshop.com/cityfight/studio-table/1/).

Tau architecture is the opposite. It's very curved, with no straight lines or edges or pointy bits anywhere at all. It's all white and emphasizes form over function, though it's also very practical, and generally doesn't have many unnecessary decorations. For good examples, go HERE (http://uk.games-workshop.com/tau/terrain/1/).

Fay Graydon

2008-09-18, 10:52 AM

whereas Orks just build stuff out of scraps and metal held together with spit,teeth and Gretchin...:smallbiggrin:

I'm currently working on making a Trukk with two seated orks, the gunner raised between two bars and an Ork warboss in the back.

The Trukk I've already made (haven't got a picture ATM) has the driver with on hand over his eyes and the other hand in the air holding a broken off stearing wheel

Zorg

2008-09-20, 01:47 AM

Here's two Deathwing marines (with a few more yet to be done) and an Exarch I've finished for Golden Demon:

Lieutenant Zakyya Sleeping Sun (2 pics):

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/brick1.jpg

Bit blurry sorry. Yes I name all my characters, with a chapter name (Zakyya in this case) and a lodge name (Sleeping Sun) keeping in with the Dark Angel's Native American influence (ie the first appearance of Deathwing).

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/brick2.jpg

Shoulder detail - it's a solar eclipse, as one of my favourite songs is Nightwish's Sleeping Sun, about a solar eclipse.

Veteran Sergeant Dena Dreaming Bison (2 pics):

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/boomer.jpg

As Deathwing squads have a huge variety of weapon options I've mixed and matched my squads weaponry, thus a Vet Sgt with a flamer. I also have squads with two Sgts and the like - it makes no difference game wise so it's pure fluff.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/boomer2.jpg

Eldar Scorpion Exarch Deepwater Shadowstrike (1 pic):

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/Exarch.jpg

Predator? Never even heard of her!

I thought the big Scorpion rune on the chest was a bit silly, so chopped it off, then noticed it left a spirit stone in the centre of the chest, much like a female guardian - bit of green stuff later and one female Exarch.

Have yet to add the name to the base (I found this program to convert words into Sindarin script, so it'll be in elvish - yes, I do think about this stuff way too much)

I've been making a large amount of scenery lately so shall waffle on about that later, but I'm tired and can't be bothered right now (and have heaps of scenery to finish for a game coming up soon :smalltongue:).

Mc. Lovin'

2008-09-20, 10:56 AM

Wow! That flame effect is very well done! Nicely painted stuff there ;D

Eldan

2008-09-20, 11:32 AM

Heh. I thought the predator look was silly. That was the reason why I never bought any new scorpions. Also, they don't have these combat poses the old ones had.

onasuma

2008-09-20, 04:01 PM

Also, Z-Axis, since you seem to be the authority on IG, do you know if the Sentinel is going to be removed in the next 'dex?

Theres talk of removing sentinels? No, gamesworkshop would never screw over fans who put lots of money into a squad like...
*remembers his 2k lost and damned army*
If gamesworkshop want to keep their reputation, yeah, probably.

The_Squid

2008-09-20, 04:10 PM

http://xs231.xs.to/xs231/08386/front153.jpg (http://xs.to)
My custom Stompa. The lower body is an old AT-AT model, and the upper is scratch-built from plasticard. It's not the most amazing model ever, but it only took two days, one for building, one for painting.
http://xs231.xs.to/xs231/08386/left186.jpg (http://xs.to)
Another angle. Not the Leman for scale.

Spoiler tags aren't working right. I must be doing something wrong.

Bryn

2008-09-20, 08:08 PM

Also, Z-Axis, since you seem to be the authority on IG, do you know if the Sentinel is going to be removed in the next 'dex?

I sure hope not. I haven't heard any rumours about it, but since everything I hear is what's posted over on Warseer and I only occasionally read over Warseer it could easily have slipped by me. So, no idea really.

Here's two Deathwing marines (with a few more yet to be done) and an Exarch I've finished for Golden Demon:

Fantastic painting there. The detail on the Terminators is fantastic! The textured effect looks great, and all the freehand detail stuff is... well, great stuff. The Striking Scorpion looks wonderful as well. Also, a Golden Demon entrant? I'm even more impressed.

Does anyone have advice on making game tables and terrain? Specifically, Tau and Imperial terrain?

I know it's kind of against the unspoken community rules to suggest the expensive Games Workshop plastic stuff when you can make your own stuff out of card, but I've got a lot out of the plastic buildings. They're easy to customise however you want (assuming you have plenty of sprues), and they have a big lot of detail. To cover a game table, though, it does get costly.

GW have quite a nice tutorial on making industrial corridors here (http://uk.games-workshop.com/warhammer40000/space-hulk/4/). It's specifically for Space Hulk games, but the techniques can probably be adapted for anything you want.

Adapting packing stuff, such as foam things, is a good way to make terrain. Make sure you modify it, though: an upside down piece of foam packing material looks like an upside down packing material, not a building, unless you're either really lucky or you modify it to sort that out.

I reccomend getting the IG tank accessory sprue from GW. It comes with the Leman Russ, Chimera, Hellhound, etc. but I think you can get it separately. It's a very easy way to add detail to your buildings: one bunker I have is part of a large blister pack (not a GW one) with a Rhino door and various bits that are supposed to go on the side of the tank. Speaking of Rhinos, whichever Rhino sprue it is that comes with doors will give you some excellent Imperial doors for your buildings.

I'm fairly sure that both the old Cityfight book and the newer Cities of Death book give some instructions on how to make buildings.

You may also be interested to know that GW are going to release, as far as I know, a new bunker for the Imperium, which can be seen on a large number of pages in the 5e book. If you like that, you might want to wait before spending anything on building a city.

That's enough rambling from me. If you also happen to come across a leprechaun and get his stash of gold at some point in the near future, the Forge World Anphelion Base is really a fantastic model. Since most of us aren't Bill Gates (and if one of you is Bill Gates, hi there! Didn't know you were into OotS and 40k :smalltongue:), though, that will probably be impossible.

Mc. Lovin'

2008-09-21, 04:56 AM

Theres talk of removing sentinels? No, gamesworkshop would never screw over fans who put lots of money into a squad like...
*remembers his 2k lost and damned army*
If gamesworkshop want to keep their reputation, yeah, probably.

Well forge world make a lot of sentinals, don't they, so they will probably be making rules for them *if* they are removed from the 'dex

Kane

2008-09-21, 10:43 AM

It was probably just a rumor anyway. The friend I heard it from is not exactly in the know.

And the problem with the Pot-O-Gold idea, Z-Axis, is I'd have to decide between Anaphelion base, Imperial City Gates (or whatever it's called),a Manta, or a Titan. (Or a decent supply of thier trench-works stuff.)

Speaking of which, what's the story behind Anaphelion Base? It's got a name and everything, and I understand that it was mentioned in one of the Imperial Armor books...

Mc. Lovin'

2008-09-21, 12:52 PM

Imperial Armour 4 I beleive, the Anphelian project. That has rules for guard and Nid moddels

Narmoth

2008-09-21, 01:09 PM

Psychotic

2008-09-21, 02:58 PM

From my sm army

Not totally pleased with the paint job, and will redo it, but here's one of my customized devastators:

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r79/Narmoth/devastator2.jpg

My custom Space Marine tank (used a LR as base), which is more battle damaged than an ork vehicle:

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r79/Narmoth/S1030353.jpg
http://s141.photobucket.com/albums/r79/Narmoth/?action=view&current=S1030349.jpg
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r79/Narmoth/S1030355.jpg

notice the trophy tyrranid backplate, the damaged cannons, the drivers seat and controlls in the back and the textplate over the drivers seat

I think your painting would highly benefit from a priming. From the looks of it, you have large amounts of exposed metal, which is either wear & tear, negligence or (the most likely) the paint refuses to adhere to the surface of the model. A primer will take care of most of these.

Mc. Lovin'

2008-09-21, 03:07 PM

Wow, how did you customize the devastator that way?

Hoggmaster

2008-09-21, 09:25 PM

Here are a couple of mine on CMoN
http://www.coolminiornot.com/44447

and

http://www.coolminiornot.com/51471

I'm not really sure of how to upload pics to GitP

Narmoth

2008-09-22, 01:43 AM

I think your painting would highly benefit from a priming. From the looks of it, you have large amounts of exposed metal, which is either wear & tear, negligence or (the most likely) the paint refuses to adhere to the surface of the model. A primer will take care of most of these.

I use plastic models. No metal to be exposed there so I'm not exactly shure what are meaning. The LR is painted to be worn down. The devastator is getting a new pain job, but he was posted for the conversion

Wow, how did you customize the devastator that way?

You take the open hand that is supplied with the devastators, the one that they are supposed to hold on the side of the rocket launcher, and make 2 cuts in it, freeing the middle finger. Then make a half-cut over the fingers you want to bend on the outside of the hand and apply a glue that melts plastic on the joint you want to bend to soften it. Be careful not to use to much glue. Then bend in place the joint.

SolkaTruesilver

2008-09-23, 01:15 AM

All right, after finishing painting the commissars and my officers, here's finally my complete army of 25 Shock Troopers, 10 Conscripts (the Cachatans), 1 Leman Russ, 2 Officers and 2 Commissars.

http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp86/SolkaTruesilver/Army1.jpg

http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp86/SolkaTruesilver/Army2.jpg

http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp86/SolkaTruesilver/Army3.jpg

http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp86/SolkaTruesilver/Army4.jpg

http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp86/SolkaTruesilver/Army5.jpg

Please comment on the color scheme, quality of painting, and whatever else you'd like. Do you think they'd fit with a classically-painted Tau Regiment?

Bryn

2008-09-23, 07:59 AM

Speaking of which, what's the story behind Anaphelion Base? It's got a name and everything, and I understand that it was mentioned in one of the Imperial Armor books...

The Anphelion Base is the setting of Imperial Armour IV: the Anphelion Project (that's the Tyranids one). It was the site of macabre experimentation to determine ways to fight the Tyranids, and the place where Inquisitor Solomon Lok goes when the facility loses contact with the rest of the Imperium. (Bet you didn't see that coming :smallbiggrin:).

The book is a good one, with a fairly good story that should really appeal to fans of the Alien films (like me). This is because it heavily, heavily rips off Aliens in style and even some aspects of the story.

It features Elysian and Cadian Imperial Guard plus the Red Scorpions chapter of Marines. The Red Scorpions are coming back in IA V-VI, so if you want to know what eventually happens to Culln, this is the book you want to read. This is the book that accompanied the release of the Arvus Lighter and Artemia/Graia pattern Hellhounds as well as the Anphelion Base and some other things.

Please comment on the color scheme, quality of painting, and whatever else you'd like. Do you think they'd fit with a classically-painted Tau Regiment?

I do like the colour scheme, some nice choices there. I don't know how it would fit in with the Tau, though, not because of the colours, but because of the models. This is because the Tau generally use very smooth, curved shapes, so a Leman Russ like you have would really stand out. The Cadians work, but to really play up the Tau theme, I'd reccomend combining the pieces with Fire Warrior parts, although it's a bit late now (:smalltongue:).

Still, it does depend on how recently these Guard converted to the service of the Tau empire. If they're only recent heretical evil traitors *ahem* fresh cannon-fodder brave servants of the Greater Good, then it would probably be fine to have a Russ in there.

Nonetheless, if you did have some spare Tau parts, it would be good to fit them to any new Guard you make. There's a short guide to converting Gue'vesa here (http://uk.games-workshop.com/tau/tau-auxiliaries/), and if you have some Catachans and Fire Warrior bits, it might be useful.
[hr]This evening, when I have more time, I'll take some photos of my Verdis 8th Imperial Guard to go alongside the tanks and the techpriest I started the thread with. :smallwink:

SolkaTruesilver

2008-09-23, 08:42 AM

Okay. I am not making a Tau Auxiliary army, but.. err..

Well, look at it this way: when the Tau managed to convert a lot of imperial worlds to the Greater Good, these worlds already had an army, which were generally disbanded (and their equipment stored).

But after the recent setbacks of the Fire Cast in intergalactic warfare, the Tau have authorized that the human volounteers who won't fit as simple auxiliaries in regular Tau Regiments to form their own independant regiments. Even if these primitive cannond fodder brave front soldiers are inferior to the Fire Cast, it's not like they are effectively stealing ressources that the Fire Cast could have used otherwise.

The Tau still like to keep these regiments on a short leash, and won't entrust their advanced technology into their hands. And, when you think about it, Humans already are trained with the use of their own technologies, so it wouldn't be logical to ask them to learn how to pilot Tau craft if there is a good Leman Russ available.

So, my Gue'Vesa Regiment is an experiment of the Tau Empire to see if the Humans could... independantly fight for the Greater Good, without the watching eye of their overseer guides.

Justyn

2008-09-23, 12:21 PM

So, my Gue'Vesa Regiment is an experiment of the Tau Empire to see if the Humans could... independently fight for the Greater Good, without the watching eye of their overseer guides.

The only problem I can see here is that many of the humans in the Imperial Guard aren't all that willing to independently fight for the God Emperor of Mankind and had to have Commissars force them forward over the bodies of their comrades on pain of death inspire them to victory.

Destro_Yersul

2008-09-23, 12:31 PM

Nah, the don't mind the fighting so much. It's the dying the dislike, which is what Commissars are for. The threaten to shoot you if you run away from imminent death. This is also why so many of them seem to die heroically for the Emperor whilst the enemy is a suspiciously long way away.

Besides, the Tau are more likely to promise them a good retirement plan. If you know you're fighting for the right to live the remainder of your years in safety and peace, you're more motivated than if you're fighting endlessly for no reason other than 'some bureaucrats decided you should'. Not that the Tau care about their lives, but if they APPEAR to care it still counts.

Bryn

2008-09-23, 12:41 PM

As it happens, the Imperial Guard does have a pretty good retirement plan for successful soldiers. If they conquer a world, they are awarded some land on that world with which to do what they wish. The majority of them will die, but for the survivors, you get a large amount of land on a conquered planet to do what you wish with.

Most Guard regiments are raised only for one campaign, so they won't fight on in war after war but will have a chance to settle down after they've seen off those Chaotic ruffians over on a nearby planet. One thing they normally don't get to do is return home to their home planet.

Of course, many of the Imperium's wars are long, gruelling crusades in which the Guard won't have a chance to settle down after fighting a fair few battles. But many Guardsmen can at least hope to enjoy their retirement after they've done their duty to the Emperor. (Note I said hope, not expect - they're far more likely to die in battle long before this chance turns up, but a lucky few might just survive long enough to retire.)

Anyway, one thing I wonder about your Tau army is what the Commissars are doing there. Surely the morale officers of a Tau-controlled army wouldn't be the super-dogmatic Imperial commissars, or wear the distinctive uniform? It would be pretty nifty to see a couple of Tau doing that job instead. Apart from that, your background seems perfectly reasonable, and the colour scheme looks pretty good.

Gimme a moment, I am going to shoot some soldiers! With a camera, that is.

SolkaTruesilver

2008-09-23, 11:39 PM

Anyway, one thing I wonder about your Tau army is what the Commissars are doing there. Surely the morale officers of a Tau-controlled army wouldn't be the super-dogmatic Imperial commissars, or wear the distinctive uniform? It would be pretty nifty to see a couple of Tau doing that job instead. Apart from that, your background seems perfectly reasonable, and the colour scheme looks pretty good.

I was worrying about the same thing initially, and planned not to include Commissars. But first, lemme explain the mindset of these people:

they still believe in the Golden Throne. They worship the Emperor, and the Tau decided that fanatism can be for the Greater Good.. in Humans ready to die in it's name (a little fanatism in your cannon fodder soldier is never bad). The Gue'Vesa, however, consider the whole Imperial Authorities (the High Lords and whatever that is under it) to be a big corrupted totality, to be overthrown.

They have respect for the Ogryns and the Ratlings and the Psyckers, because all of these.. strange people are still humans to the core. But they despise the Adeptus Astarte, because these are freak mutation of humanity, ready to convert to chaos overnight.

The GG Commissars are people who were completely "convinced" of the supremace of the Greater Good. The Tau were initially appalled to see that some of their Gue'Vesa soldiers were authorised to shoot others, but the Gue'Vesa Generals told them that a soldier's mind is a fragile thing, and that these "Commissars" helped maintain perfect cohesion during battle. They are dressed like Commissars because the Commissariat left so much of a psychological image in the mind of the soldiers, why not use it?

Kane

2008-09-24, 12:14 AM

Sounds very well thought out and reasonable. Some of those I half thought up my self, when I first heard your idea for it, but you've expanded them and added several more. The one about hating space marines was quite fitting. For the Greater Good!

(I think I'm going to have my guard, if I get them, be loyalists, though. I want to be able to yell "For the Empra!" as I crush the nids/orks/necrons under my treads.)

Baerdog7

2008-09-24, 02:13 AM

This thread needs more Fantasy! As such, I present a tuskgor chariot that I painted up a while back for my Beasts of Chaos army.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g141/Baerdog7/IMG_2049.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g141/Baerdog7/IMG_2047.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g141/Baerdog7/IMG_2043.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g141/Baerdog7/IMG_2042.jpg

The hardest part was getting pictures that clear on a digital camera that doesn't have a macro lens. :smallsigh:

SolkaTruesilver

2008-09-24, 02:19 AM

Who do you call that? "Fann... tay... zee"? What's that? It sure doesn't have a thing to do with Warhammer! I mean, there are no guns on your model!!!

Colmarr

2008-09-24, 03:40 AM

They have respect for the Ogryns and the Ratlings and the Psyckers, because all of these.. strange people are still humans to the core. But they despise the Adeptus Astarte, because these are freak mutation of humanity, ready to convert to chaos overnight.

I don't quite get this.

They're fine with ogres and halflings and people who can blow heads off with the powers of the mind (not to mention draw the attention of daemons and other chaos scum), but they hate the soldiers that represent human physical perfection?

The average imperial citizen or guard soldier doesn't know that a space marine has two hearts and three kidneys. They just know that he's a 7' tall road block with a REALLY big gun.

I can see it working as some sort of "uncanny valley" effect where the former are different enough not to be unnerving but the latter are too similar to be acceptable, but the "uncanny valley" doesn't really work as a basis for hate.

SolkaTruesilver

2008-09-24, 03:53 AM

But the Space Marines are.. artificial. They haven't evolved into what they are, they are created. What is the difference between the Iron Men who enslaved mankind and these artificial monstruosities? Monstruosities that, we have to say, proved more than once they can convert to chaos and become humanity's greatest menace.

They aren't humans anymore. The Ogryns and the Ratlings still are, somewhere. They haven't been made like that, they are simply a natural extension of the human being. A Space marine has nothing natural in him. He doesn't reproduce, he doesn't grow old. He doesn't LIVE. It's a biological machine made to kill, kill and kill some more.

Destro_Yersul

2008-09-24, 08:02 AM

But the guard don't KNOW that. No one tells the poor bloody footsloggers anything.

SolkaTruesilver

2008-09-24, 08:04 AM

But the guard don't KNOW that. No one tells the poor bloody footsloggers anything.

The Imperial Guard? Yhea, you are right. But the Tau? Hmm... that's another matter.

Destro_Yersul

2008-09-24, 08:09 AM

The Imperium wouldn't tell the Tau anything, and the Tau can't really find that sort of thing out for themselves. They know the Space Marines aren't ordinary soldiers, but that much is obvious to everyone.

For all the Tau know, the Space Marines did evolve.

onasuma

2008-09-24, 10:44 AM

The average imperial citizen or guard soldier doesn't know that a space marine has two hearts and three kidneys. They just know that he's a 7' tall road block with a REALLY big gun.

Nope, most imperial citizens dont know that marines exist. After all, they're only really brought in once mass evacuation is over and when most of the guard are dead. Most people think marines are little more than rumours.

Eldan

2008-09-24, 10:48 AM

Destro_Yersul

2008-09-24, 10:56 AM

Well, they probably killed one or the other space marine in their campaigns. And given that they are quite the techie people, I can imagine that they would dissect some to find out why the hell they can take a bullet to the head and live.

I'll give them that. The thing is that they would have no idea that the marine was made, rather than evolved. The only people who know how Marines are created aren't telling, and honestly, who would believe them if they did?

Soups

2008-09-25, 04:07 PM

Wow, you guys are pretty good at painting these models. I have to ask how you guys do it. do you use the airbrushes, or just paint brushes? I only have paint brushes at my disposal, and all I really plan to buy. is there a way to not have the brush strokes show? I would show some of my in progress pictures, but I'm not in my room right now. I get out of class in 2 hours, so I'll update later. I think my mistake seems to be is I used a black primer spray, instead of white. My colors seem to be very muted(again, sorry for no pics right now). My friends said they used a black primer, but then, they play Necrons.

If at some point I do need to repaint them, does paint thinner/remover work on plastic models?

onasuma

2008-09-25, 04:14 PM

Generally, you use a black or white (or now, brown) undercoat on everything, otherwise paint doesnt ahear properly. Most often black, unless you want to paint green or yellow.
Yes, we all use paint brushes, there isnt really much else to use for other parts of the models. Gw tried to release an airbrush, but it got withdraw due to it not being pressurised right.

Destro_Yersul

2008-09-25, 04:19 PM

I'll answer those questions in reverse order.

If at some point I do need to repaint them, does paint thinner/remover work on plastic models?

I wouldn't try it if I was you. Paint thinner is a solvent, so it'll probably melt the plastic. Go with something like Simple Green, which takes longer but won't damage the miniatures.

is there a way to not have the brush strokes show?

Use very thin paint, and do a couple coats. It'll dry pretty fast, so it won't even take that long. Black primer generally works better for hiding brush strokes, simply because it's darker. It does mute the colour though, so if you want it bright either use a lot of layers or go with a lighter undercoat. Personally, I am a complete nutter, and use black for everything, including yellow, bright blue and orange. I find it works better and cuts down on the amount of shading I have to do.

Wow, you guys are pretty good at painting these models. I have to ask how you guys do it. do you use the airbrushes, or just paint brushes?

Just brushes. I don't own an airbrush, so I have to do everything by hand. Airbrush would only work well for very large models anyways.

Justyn

2008-09-25, 08:56 PM

is there a way to not have the brush strokes show?

Use fine, natural hair bristled brushes. Red sable are the best. And make sure to take care of them. Only use synthetic bristled brushes for fine detail work.

Also, work in a single direction when painting, and remember to pull the brush towards you when you move it.

I think my mistake seems to be is I used a black primer spray, instead of white. My colors seem to be very muted(again, sorry for no pics right now). My friends said they used a black primer, but then, they play Necrons.

Layer your paints. Use more than one layer of paint for each color, ESPECIALLY if you use warm colors (red, orange, yellow) from Citadel Paints. You should see improvements very quickly.

Soups

2008-09-26, 12:32 AM

Thanks for all the advice. Sorry it took a bit for me to pop back in, forgot about an assignment...and I had to level in WoW :P . And apparently my camera is lamer than lame, and is taking really crappy shots. models are too small. I would prolly have better luck scanning them. But here is some form of progress of what I have.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/SoupsMan/WarHammer40k/DSC00666.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/SoupsMan/WarHammer40k/DSC00664.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/SoupsMan/WarHammer40k/DSC00657.jpg

it's only the red right now. I'm 5 models in on the 17 model army I have (587 pts, I believe). This is only 1 model, but my painting is pretty much the same on the other 4 i have the red done with.

edit: arg, now people might know where I go to school. O well, it's not like this is 4chan :P
edit2: if you don't already know what 4chan is, you stay far and away from it. Bad images. very NSF work, home, sanity, lunch, and faith in human kind

SolkaTruesilver

2008-09-26, 01:25 AM

Wow, you guys are pretty good at painting these models. I have to ask how you guys do it. do you use the airbrushes, or just paint brushes?

Well, I usually use paintbrushes, but for very very fine details, I use a needle. Fine brushes just gets damaged over time, while a needle is so easy to clean!

Eldan

2008-09-26, 08:12 AM

I'm not good at working with a needle, but I used it the few times i had to paint eyes. The bad thing is, my hands tend to shake a lot when I'm holding fine objects, so I normally screw up the fine details on my models, like eyes, gems and the like. I've also used toothpicks, but they don't work for long when they get wet.

Destro_Yersul

2008-09-26, 09:19 AM

Nifty trick I've found for painting red over a black undercoat. Do the first layer in pink, then switch to red. Makes them a lot brighter, and looks better than red over white.

Vazzaroth

2008-09-26, 03:47 PM

Mc. Lovin'

2008-09-26, 04:32 PM

Destro_Yersul

2008-09-26, 04:37 PM

Eldan

2008-09-26, 04:42 PM

Doesn't work either. I mean those eye crystals or whatever they are on the eldar. I usuallly just paint them green (looks good on black helmets) but I tend to paint the surrounding helmet as well.

Justyn

2008-09-26, 09:41 PM

Very nice thread. There's some cool models here. I'm brand new to the Tabletop game, and just got the rulebook after wanting to get into it for awhile. Me and a friend will be getting Assault on Black Reach soon (I getz da Orks!). I'm also looking to paint-up my Metal Mini of the Warboss that came with Warhammer Online Collector Edition. I heard metal takes a special process, right?

Also, what suggestions on Colors? Im going to get the beginners painting and modeling kit from GW very soon.

There is no real special process for painting a pewter mini per se, you just need to remember that priming metal ones is not optional: You have to prime them, or the paint will not stick, and even then the paint will fleck off with handling, so you will need to give them a varnish. Games Workshop offers "Purity Seal" in gloss (shiny) and matte (not shiny), but I have read people say that it stays sticky even after it dries. Take that as you will.

I'm not good at working with a needle, but I used it the few times i had to paint eyes. The bad thing is, my hands tend to shake a lot when I'm holding fine objects, so I normally screw up the fine details on my models, like eyes, gems and the like.

Try to brace your elbows on the table when doing fine detail work, and breathe steadily, that should help a little. Also, have some tea or anything else that helps you relax a little before you paint: if you are relaxed, you won't shake as much.

Bryn

2008-10-01, 05:59 PM

It arrived! I am pretty much running on happiness right now.

http://img366.imageshack.us/img366/8438/machariusbitsej8.png

What? This. (http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/machvhb.htm)

More pictures to follow tomorrow.

Kane

2008-10-01, 06:26 PM

That looks craz awe crazy awesome!

What are the stats/options on it?

That looks seriously intimidating.

SolkaTruesilver

2008-10-01, 11:44 PM

Indeed! I specially like the repeating.. err.. are that repeating cannons?

Justyn

2008-10-02, 12:34 AM

Indeed! I specially like the repeating.. err.. are that repeating cannons?

Forgeworld calls them "Vulcan Mega Bolters"

SolkaTruesilver

2008-10-02, 03:34 AM

Vulcan Mega Bolter? Just that name makes me drool.. niiiiiice...

What are the stats of these babies? BTW, what is the name of the tank?

Bryn

2008-10-02, 06:07 AM

OK... Right now I'm AFB, but I'll try and give answers: That there tank is the Macharius Vulcan. As of IA: Apocalypse, it's ~400pts (which might be overpriced, compared to the other Macharius variants). It's a superheavy tank with (IIRC) two structure points; the Vulcan Mega-Bolter has 15 shots at Str 6-7 and AP3. Yes, you heard that right: 15 shots. (If you find those stats odd, the Warhound Titan has a different version of the Vulcan with 10 shots, but that one is rending.)

For the most part, the casting is very high quality, with no notable mould lines (although there are the usual gates that all resin models have). A couple of the parts are bent, but those can be very easily fixed with a bit of hot water. The sponsons mounts are more problematic: it seems that Forge World have accidentally sent me two left sponson mounts and no right sponson mounts (for all I know, there may be a Macharius owner somewhere who ended up with two right sponsons). I'll have to get that one replaced. Other than that, though, it's an incredible model. The amount of detail is stunning, most especially on the Vulcan turret.

Having never assembled a Forge World superheavy before, I find construction is fairly interesting (so stop here if you don't). The entire Vulcan turret is one solid lump of resin. The tracks are also solid - unlike the plastic tanks, almost all the track links are already attached, so I don't need to glue them on (there is a gap at one end where a gate is, but I only need to stick one piece there). The tracks simply slot into the sides of the main body of the tank, and the bottom attaches to that. The turret simply drops into place.

The inside of the tank is oddly smooth, unlike the very crisp edges on the outside of the tank.

From the looks of the things, it will be a much simpler construction than a typical plastic tank, especially considering the number of pieces in the baneblade. The pieces can only really fit together one way, so there isn't much risk of sticking it together wrong. It's certainly a lot easier to make than the Vulture Gunship.

I intend to wash the pieces in soapy water to get rid of mould release fluid before constructing it, because my Vulture Gunship has had a little paint flake off it before (just basecoat, fortunately) and this is the reccomended way to avoid that sort of thing.

I intend to make a log of how I build this beast, with photos (better than the one I already posted, I rather overzealously shrunk that one).

Bryn

2008-10-04, 06:53 PM

Building a Macharius
By Z-Axis and Uhrud Skulltaker, Ork Warboss.

Dat 'un is me, yer runt.

Hello everyone, meet Uhrud Skulltaker -
- taker of skulls.
Yes, thank you Uhrud, I think we -
Shut it, 'umie! I is buildin' a tank wif lots o' dakka! E's just me 'umie slave.

Uh, indeed. But first, a little background. The Imperial Macharius Vulcan is zoggin' 'uge! I woz talkin'! Dis tank 'as enuff dakka ter level a barn! Dese 'umies 'ave some good ideas, but we Orks kan just loot it, an' so we 'as dis 'uge tank wif a big kannon on da top. But wes got to build it first.

http://img115.imageshack.us/img115/9241/43932670im7.png
Dese 'ere are da trak bitz. Dey is zoggin' big, an' dey as dis bit at da back where dere was dis door or summin'. Da 'umie 'ad to file it off wiv dis 'uge file and den 'e stuck track on top of da track.
http://img390.imageshack.us/img390/1750/74523175yj8.png
Den, dis bit is da middle of da tank, an' da floor 'az to be stuck on. It's even uger than da tracks, but it's not da best bit...
http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/5483/89265842dr9.png
DAKKA.
http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/5659/77278791il0.png
Here you can see my hand.
Ahahahaahaaaaa! Look at dat weak an' pink 'and. Green is best! Waaaaagh Orks!
http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/1526/52020548pr5.png
Now we kan stand up.
http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/7425/34533598ff8.png
Dat ruff bit waz where da door fing was, but da 'umie filed it off. 'Es a good 'umie but 'es really slow. 'Umie! 'Urry up dere! Dese pictures is boring!
Yes, lord Uhrud.
http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/1760/78881677kq7.png
Trak is on da trak fing as I sed. Dese pictures ain't nuffin' new. Stupid 'umie.
http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/3392/57939729sd9.png
It 'as wheels! Waaaaagh! Give it zum red paint! Monotrak!
http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/2057/10wb3.png
Here you can observe - most of da tank. Stop talkin' 'umie. Dere isn't a hatch yet, cos dis umie can't work.
http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/4687/11fp8.png
Dis bit is fer RAMMIN'! Ram ram rrrrram!
http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/1586/12lc1.png
More dakka! Dis' tank 'az so much dakka dat you can't breave!
http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/8057/13ua9.png
Exorst pipes, fer smoke wen you charges...
http://img396.imageshack.us/img396/7518/15cr6.png
'Ow can dere be a tank on a tank? Hahahahaaaa!
http://img396.imageshack.us/img396/7720/18ck3.png
Some headlamps so the driver can see.
Dat's stupid! Dark iz more fun.
http://img389.imageshack.us/img389/3019/19us2.png
WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAGH! Get lootin'!

Those there are about half the photos I took while building the tank today. I hope they're interesting.

Dat's got it! Now run i'm over boyz!

Aieee!

Vazzaroth

2008-10-04, 07:18 PM

Thats amazing. Is that new? I don't know a ton about the game yet, but I don't think I've seen anything that big besides a baneblade.

Also, the Ork is totally Adam Savage from Mythbusters when I read that in my head.

Nicely done.

SolkaTruesilver

2008-10-04, 11:49 PM

I know you probably wanted to mount the thing first, but personnally, I prefer to paint the pieces of my tank before mounting it.

BTW: Awesome commentaries!!

Mc. Lovin'

2008-10-05, 05:52 AM

Nice one Z! I look forward to seeing it aimed at the Tyrannids

Bryn

2008-10-05, 06:20 AM

I'm posting this from a hospital after Uhrud ran me over. Damn Ork!

The Forge World newsletter announcing the Macharius Vulcan came out on the 10th of September 2007 - in other words, about a year ago. Being a Forge World model, though, it's not exactly mainstream - not many people get FW models, mostly because of the price :smalleek:

For the most part, I think the Macharius will be easy enough to paint when a whole thing. The only problem I can see coming is the heavy stubber on the front - I'll need to be careful not to stick that in place if I want it to still be able to freely rotate. It might also be hard to get paint into some of the more awkward places, like the bottoms of the headlights.

Thanks for the kind comments! :smallbiggrin:

Dakkadakkadakkadakkadakkadakkadakka...

tribble

2008-10-05, 07:55 PM

any ideas on how to represent a Dark Angel who turned to chaos? I am not using the black-green-red scheme in the Chaos codex. i mean, yuck.

onasuma

2008-10-06, 01:40 AM

1)Take 1 part chaos space marine sprue and 1 part dark angel sprue.
2)Mix together and paint as normal.
3)Enjoy awesomeness of chaos armies.

Destro_Yersul

2008-10-06, 10:32 AM

Use the pre-heresy scheme. Dark angels back then were, IIRC, black with red iconography. For bonus points give them bits from the DA upgrade sprue and have the squad leaders in bone coloured robes. Because the robes are awesome.

tribble

2008-10-06, 12:47 PM

can I get a picture of some Dark Angels in pre-heresy colours?

Bryn

2008-10-06, 01:09 PM

http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/mediawiki/images/2/20/PreheresyDarkAngel.jpg
http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/mediawiki/images/4/40/PhDarkAngel.jpg
http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/mediawiki/images/1/1b/Dark_Angels_black.jpg

5 seconds on Lexicanum. See also Google.

Destro_Yersul

2008-10-06, 01:24 PM

Got a few for you. Google and a favourite forum of mine comes up with these:

Inquisitor Scale (54mm) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/precinctomega/Tim%20Vorne%20Art/Commissions/marinecomplete3.png)

Illustration (http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/mediawiki/images/1/1b/Dark_Angels_black.jpg)

With plasma pistol and Sword (http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg148/Iacton/Dark%20Angels/tiriel-2.jpg)

With two bolt pistols (http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg148/Iacton/Dark%20Angels/gabriel-2.jpg)

A squad of Fallen (http://uk.games-workshop.com/chaosspacemarines/fallen-angels/images/Stus_Fallen.jpg)

That good for ya?

Vazzaroth

2008-10-09, 12:35 PM

Not mine, but I found a really cool Land Raider on Ebay with a what is basically a Mural on it. Pretty awesome.
Land Raider (http://cgi.ebay.com/WARHAMMER-40K-Space-Marine-Land-Raider-Crusader-convert_W0QQitemZ320308573872QQcmdZViewItem?hash=i tem320308573872&_trkparms=39%3A1|66%3A2|65%3A1|240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14)

Mc. Lovin'

2008-10-09, 02:38 PM

wow, if that's real then it's pretty awesome!

Exachix

2008-10-09, 05:44 PM

Eldan

2008-10-10, 10:18 AM

I painted mine pure aspect colours. For one, pure craftworld colours on everything get boring to me. Then, it has the advantage that everyone can see what they are. They also look very cool (I need to post a picture of my fire dragons here).
However: my craftworld's colours are royal blue and black, and for those squads who have similar colours, I did change them slightly. I.e. my swooping Hawk exarch has a royal blue armor, while everyone else is bright blue. My Dire Avengers look like my guardians (back when I still had guardians), with white instead of black helmets.

onasuma

2008-10-10, 11:04 AM

Stupid question;

I'm getting an eldar army (First army.... Wheeee fire prisms). And would it be better to paint aspect Warriors with;
> their colours (i.e. Colours all Aspect Warriors use),
> Pure Craftworld colours (The Colours Guardians of the craftworld use),
> or variants on the craftworld colours. (So, each Aspect Warrior set has their own style, but it's based on the colours of the craftworld).

Which ones of those will get my lynched? =). Just a silly question.

And, mixing and matching parts for models is ok? Or just to an extent?

I say varients of the craftworld. My reasoning: You have to buy less paints.

Edit: camera is found. So, heres the pics that i promised of my slaaneshi penitent engine:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/065.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/067.jpg

Thats probably my favourite model, ever.

evil_d4_swarm

2008-12-17, 11:03 AM

Alright, here are my models:

Crisis Commander

http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/ww327/evil_d4_swarm/DSCN0655.jpg

http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/ww327/evil_d4_swarm/DSCN0656.jpg

http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/ww327/evil_d4_swarm/DSCN0657.jpg

http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/ww327/evil_d4_swarm/DSCN0658.jpg

Fire Warriors

http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/ww327/evil_d4_swarm/DSCN0648.jpg

Shas'ui Fire Warrior
http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/ww327/evil_d4_swarm/DSCN0654.jpg

Hammerhead Gunship

http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/ww327/evil_d4_swarm/DSCN0663.jpg

Devilfish APC

http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/ww327/evil_d4_swarm/DSCN0661.jpg

Broadside Battlesuit

http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/ww327/evil_d4_swarm/DSCN0659.jpg

http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/ww327/evil_d4_swarm/DSCN0660.jpg

Kroot

http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/ww327/evil_d4_swarm/DSCN0665.jpg

Yes, it's pink.

EDIT: Sorry about the bad quality of the pictures.

grinner666

2008-12-17, 12:54 PM

Lately I've been working mostly on terrain modeling & painting. You can find pics here:

http://www.grinner666.deviantart.com/ :smallbiggrin:

I'm just finishing up an old Rhino I modified as a command vehicle; I'll have to pull out the digital camera and get a few shots of that up sometime soon.

grinner666

2008-12-17, 01:05 PM

Does anyone have advice on making game tables and terrain? Specifically, Tau and Imperial terrain?

It seems that that's the next step for me, and it'd add a lot to the games we play.

Type "Warhammer 40k terrain" or just "wargame terrain" into the Google search engine. You'll find HUNDREDS of sites devoted to that very thing. You might also try picking up GW's How To Make Wargames Terrain. Excellent treatise on the subject.

Here are a few of my personal favorite sources:

http://www.netterrain.de/

http://www.ironhands.com/necro.htm

http://www.toposolitario.com/principal/index.html

Zorg

2008-12-17, 01:49 PM

Grinner, nice terrain - though with the bunker lid off the foam is exposed - maybe a quick coat of grey over it?

Evil d4 - first thing I noticed is lack of undercoat. A base coat, either sprayed on or hand painted (GW's foundation paints are as excellent as advertised). No undercoat causes faster paint wear and the colours won't be as vibrant.

As proof I present my first ever miniature, the Hero Quest Sorcerer (without undercoat):
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/HQsorc.jpg
You can see the grey plastic showing through the gold and a little bit on the skin - it's far more pronounced in person. This was painted usiing enamels, which are much harder wearing than acrylics, and being almost 20 years old is still in quite good condition. That said he's been on a shelf for about 15 years so that may have helped...

And some more recent stuff:

Captain West of the Rainbow Warriors 5th Company:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/west2.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/west3.jpg
She's basically my Sicarius stand-in, and has proved excellent at carving opponents into tiny little pieces.

I'm currently painting up some RW assault marines and making a four legged sentinel conversion - hopefully have some pics tomorrow.

Dark Angels Land Raider Redeemer:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/rede1.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/rede2.jpg
Unfortunately, being a giant slab of black it doesn't photograph too well.

evil_d4_swarm

2008-12-17, 02:02 PM

Sweet models!

Also, I do have an undercoat, the orange is Macharius Solar Orange (a foundation paint).

Isak

2008-12-17, 02:02 PM

Dark Angels Land Raider Redeemer:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/rede1.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/rede2.jpg
Unfortunately, being a giant slab of black it doesn't photograph too well.

HOLY!

That's amazing!!!!!!!

(Had to dig myself out of a hole to post :smalltongue:)

grinner666

2008-12-17, 02:02 PM

though with the bunker lid off the foam is exposed - maybe a quick coat of grey over it?

Yeah, that's something I've been meaning to get around to since I first put the damned thing together. Unfortunately since I store it as a single piece, I never notice it until it's on the damned battlefield.

:smalleek:

Anyway my next planned piece is a big swamp, then I'm building the orbital laser turret they've got on the Necromundicon site. But first I gotta finish painting my Space Marine transports.

:smallbiggrin:

I'll never be finished. Never.

Erloas

2008-12-17, 02:51 PM

Well I don't have any of my 40k stuff painted yet, though most of it is now put together. I figure in probably another week I'll have it all together and get it primed, it will probably be a good month or so before I have anything worth taking pictures of.

Although I think I've posted them here before, here is some of the Battletech stuff I painted.
http://cid-ad80cc4fe722a33a.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/.res/AD80CC4FE722A33A!121

And here is some Fantasy stuff I painted.
http://cid-ad80cc4fe722a33a.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/.res/AD80CC4FE722A33A!114

Since its not 40k I'm not going to embed them in the thread. The goblins aren't bad, but they aren't as good as I was hoping. I think the dragon and the Cold One Knights came out really well though.
I love the demolisher tank (red one) and I think the pouncer (orange 'Mech) came out very well. I think the scorpion's (small tank) camo came out a lot better then the King Crabs camo. The mantueffel tank was mostly just a test run for a very white model, and I think it came out pretty well for that.
I've got a madcat that is mostly done, and a warhammer I think came out especially well but I haven't got around to photographing them yet.

grinner666

2008-12-17, 04:42 PM

Here's a couple pics of some of my Iyanden Wraithguard. I'd been planning on doing my entire army in raw wraithbone ... then, two squads into this grand plan, I realized that doing good wraithbone requires something like six coats of drybrushing. Now only the Wraithguard and Wraithlords (a substantial percentage of the Iyanden army, to be sure) are in this color scheme.

Okay, I can't figure out how the heck to get my Imagevenue-hosted pics to show correctly here. You can find my Wraithguard on my page at Deviantart. :smallfurious:

http://www.grinner666.deviantart.com/

Erloas

2008-12-17, 05:05 PM

Test for Grinner666's pictures

http://www.deviantart.com/download/106610499/Wraithguard_1_by_grinner666.jpg

I got the direct link by going to the "Download" button and doing a right-click and selecting "copy shortcut". I couldn't get the other one because it doesn't have a download button.

starwoof

2008-12-17, 05:38 PM

Theres some really good stuff here! I've always wondered why there wasnt a thread for pictures of our models. /subscribe

Grinner... I think those wraithguard are really cool.

I don't paint very often, but I love to convert stuff. My painting style is intended to be bold and kinda cartoony. Its easy to do and looks cool too. Heres some of my models!

Sorceror of Tzeentch
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l121/starwoof2/marines005.jpg

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l121/starwoof2/marines006.jpg

Lord of Tzeentch
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l121/starwoof2/marines007.jpg

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l121/starwoof2/marines008.jpg

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l121/starwoof2/marines010.jpg

Abaddon the Despoiler :smalltongue:
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l121/starwoof2/tourney013.jpg

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l121/starwoof2/marines011.jpg

The only guardsmen I have painted, the poor bastards.
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l121/starwoof2/HSO005.jpg

*runs outside to take pictures*

My wyvern rider for my orcs and goblins

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l121/starwoof2/marines015.jpg

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l121/starwoof2/marines016.jpg

I thought it was brighter out today... oh, it also snowed apparently.:smalltongue: I've got more pics if anyone cares.

Mc. Lovin'

2008-12-17, 05:56 PM

I just wanna pop in and compliment that bitching land raider thing you got going on there Zorg!
That was all, BYEEE

grinner666

2008-12-17, 09:50 PM

Your Chaos Marines are awesome, starwoof, and interestingly enough the style seems to work just as well on the Imperial Guard models. I'd never have suspected that.

And yeah, Zorg, you make me unbelievably envious with that Land Raider.

Yes, I have Land Raider Envy. I hate you.

:smalltongue:

:smallbiggrin:

*giggles and skips away*

Zorg

2008-12-18, 09:09 AM

What do Orks build when they can't afford a Stompa? Or a Dread? Or a Kan?

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/orksent1.jpg

Painting tomorrow.

Thankyou all for the kind words :) Though I left off a shot of the rear, where there is a tiny stencil of a Dragon with a single beefy arm ready to burninate the enemies of the Imperium. And of course the nameplate reads 'Trogdor'.

That said, it still needs some more work on it - from most angles it seems a pretty formless black box unfortunately. I'm thinking hot-rod style flames along the top.

Starwoof - like the boldness of your style :) though the green makes me think of Nurgle, but I'm sure it's some grand scheme on the part of Tzeentch.

Grinner - go on, do the whole army that way, it'll be awesome! :smalltongue:

Evil d4 - my apologies, I really shouldn't post so late at night, I thought the silver was bare metal :smallredface:

grinner666

2008-12-18, 03:19 PM

Nope, my infantry and command units have the exact opposite color scheme; blue uniforms and raw wraithbone helmets. I may decide to continue the lightning motif on the blue uniforms, though if I did that I think I'd have to re-paint all the wraithguard (about 15 models, already covered in polyurethane protectant ... *sighs*) that don't already have it.

Unfortunately my farkin' Wraithlords disappeared in one of my many moves over the past five years, or I'd'a showed ya those, too. THEY looked awesome with that paint job.

Oh, well ... just means I'll hafta build some when I'm outta my current Space Marines phase ...

That Ork walker is amazing. What's it armed with, heavy flamer and Dreadnought close combat weapon? Fabulous; I want game stats!!

:smallbiggrin:

starwoof

2008-12-18, 04:09 PM

What do Orks build when they can't afford a Stompa? Or a Dread? Or a Kan?

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/orksent1.jpg

Painting tomorrow.

Dat fing is ded 'ard and stompy... jobs a good 'un!

Starwoof - like the boldness of your style :) though the green makes me think of Nurgle, but I'm sure it's some grand scheme on the part of Tzeentch.

Thanks! I actually play undivided... I'll post some of my khorne guys when I finish painting them. :P Your land raider is pretty sick... It makes me want to do something fierce with mine!

Dragor

2008-12-18, 05:10 PM

Dark Angels Land Raider Redeemer:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/rede1.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/rede2.jpg
Unfortunately, being a giant slab of black it doesn't photograph too well.

Nice Arch Enemy quote. Do I get a cookie?

Also, loving the model. :smallwink:

Zorg

2008-12-19, 11:38 AM

That Ork walker is amazing. What's it armed with, heavy flamer and Dreadnought close combat weapon? Fabulous; I want game stats!!

:smallbiggrin:

Here it is finished:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/orksent2.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/orksent3.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/orksent4.jpg

No stats yet - I'll probably use it as a counts as Deff Dread with a Skorcha and extra klaw. I'm thinking about doing up an Apocalypse datasheet for it, but can't think of a name - anyone with some suggestions (as either an individual thingy or a class)?

Grinner - maybe just the lightning on squad leaders (sure they don't have rules but it'll look cool)? And I sympathise about loosing stuff - I can't find my Ork Kodex :/

Starwoof - Undivided makes sense :) Vehicles (especially big ones) are a good place to go crazy, given how many points they cost to get on the table they might as well look awesome.

Dragor - A brutal, metal cookie ;) I was thinking of using "You were born your brother's keeper // why can I see blood on your hands? // You became your brother's slayer // embrace again in death" and making it a Chaplain-mobile. But that would have been far to long to write and keep the murals. Might do it on the other Crusader I've got tho.

Mc. Lovin'

2008-12-19, 12:53 PM

Wow. Wow wow wow wow wow. Nice to see a project see completion, and that one really does look great.

grinner666

2008-12-19, 04:41 PM

Dat ... is dead 'ard and Orky!!!

Seriously, ya gotta love the Orks. What more really needs to be said about a race whose cleverest and most inspiring battle cry to date is "'Ere we go, 'ere we go, 'ere we go ..."

:smallwink:

grinner666

2008-12-21, 05:11 PM

Does anybody know if the new Predator models come with the White Scars transfers that the Land Raider Crusader model comes with? I'm running low on that transfer, I can't do the darn thing freehand and every time I try to make a stencil it ends up making nothing more than an ugly red blob on the tank.

:smallfrown:

Malek

2008-12-21, 07:51 PM

Well it just happens that I was painting my first necron warrior - it's about 90% done (still need to do the gun and the base, plus correct paint "overflows" in some places), but any comments and hints for a newbie are welcome :P
Far front shot - the green rod was put in for the picture.
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m240/Malek_Deneith/Wh%2040k/Necron-distance.jpg

Close up - focus on the picture is off, sadly I discovered this only after coming back from friends house (don't own a camera... yet)
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m240/Malek_Deneith/Wh%2040k/Necron-front.jpg

Back shot
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m240/Malek_Deneith/Wh%2040k/Necron-rear.jpg

And one more far shot - the fire warrior isn't mine - that one was done by my friend with whom I were working :smallbiggrin:
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m240/Malek_Deneith/Wh%2040k/Tau-vs-Necron.jpg

Edit: one problem that I run into is that black paint came off a tiny bit a few times forcing me to repaint it - any idea why?

grinner666

2008-12-21, 09:57 PM

Nice job!!!

Only piece of advice I can give is ... remember you're painting an army, not a single display piece. Don't spend too much time on any one model (except for the really big or important ones; unique characters, vehicles, monstrous creatures, etc). Small imperfections won't matter so much when your painted army is sitting on the tabletop as they might seem to when you're concentrating on a single piece.

I generally paint my infantry figures in groups of 5 or 6 (or more, depending on how ambitious I'm feeling) at a time; I do one color on each, then go back to the first and start with the next color, etc. until I'm done. Using that method I can usually get a group of 6 models done in an hour or so.

Erloas

2008-12-22, 10:05 AM

Edit: one problem that I run into is that black paint came off a tiny bit a few times forcing me to repaint it - any idea why?

If paint is chipping off (and not from impacts or handling, etc) then it is usually because you didn't get a good primer coat. I have minimized paint chipping off by washing all of my models with soap and water before doing anything else and then making sure I have a good primer coat. There are always a few places that don't get sprayed well so I picked up a little bottle of paint-on primer to touch up the troublesome spots.

The only thing that really stands out (or doesn't as the case may be) about the model is a lack of highlights. I personally found it hard to get highlights right for quite a while because to me it looks wierd when you are putting it on up-close, but it always looks a lot better when you have it at normal distances. Its not uncommon to have at least 2-3 different shades on a highlight, but if you are doing a lot of rank-and-file models a single highlight shade is enough.

As to where you highlight, it takes a bit of practice or examples to see what looks right where. But your pictures can do a lot to show you where the highlights should be. I would say a grey line along the ridge on the head, on the outside of the shoulder plates, then along the top of the arms and a bit on the top of the tights.

grinner666

2008-12-22, 10:05 AM

I've posted my (finally!) completed Command & Communications Rhino on my page at deviantART!!

http://www.grinner666.deviantart.com/

The idea was originally conceived back when Space Marines could take the Improved Comms vehicle upgrade just like Imperial Guard still can, but I went ahead with it just because I thought the idea would look cool.

Wasn't there some sort of command & commo rhino outlined in one of the Imperial Armour books as an HQ choice, though?

:smallbiggrin:

Zorg

2008-12-22, 12:04 PM

Edit: one problem that I run into is that black paint came off a tiny bit a few times forcing me to repaint it - any idea why?

I've found chaos black is pretty prone to chippping in addition to what Elors said earlier. Basically I always put an extra coat of two on.

Only piece of advice I can give is ... remember you're painting an army, not a single display piece. Don't spend too much time on any one model (except for the really big or important ones; unique characters, vehicles, monstrous creatures, etc). Small imperfections won't matter so much when your painted army is sitting on the tabletop as they might seem to when you're concentrating on a single piece.

Don't listen to him! :smalltongue: While, yes, your line troops don't need to be as detailed as your commanders, I personally feel that each deserves as much time and attention as the other. Of course I've not finished a third of my pile of unfinished minis so grinner may be right... :smallwink:

And grinner, the Rhino is the Damoclese in IA2. The only criticism of your model I have is of the dish and radio gear. Well, more specifically that it's mounted on the top hatch. If you were to disguise the join in the doors and the hand holds it would be a big improvement. Otherwise all good - and good to see an old school Rhino! :)

onasuma

2008-12-22, 12:51 PM

So, i had a productive afternoon:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/WIPGUO083-1.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/WIPGUO081.jpg

and for comparisons

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/WIPGUO082.jpg

That there is Ku'Gath the plague father, embodyment of nurgles perfect disease ever. Unfortunatly, he doesnt photograph well at this stage due to being almost all the same colour green, and therefore I hope to get painted pics up in a day or so.

Oh and cause Z told me to:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/WIPGUO084.jpg

grinner666

2008-12-22, 11:19 PM

I've found chaos black is pretty prone to chippping in addition to what Elors said earlier. Basically I always put an extra coat of two on.

I've pretty much quit using Citadel paints, except for a very few specialty colors and a few pots I still haven't used up. They combine all the easy flow of thick mud with all the coverage of watery paste. I recommend the Reaper Master series. MUCH better stuff.

Don't listen to him! :smalltongue: While, yes, your line troops don't need to be as detailed as your commanders, I personally feel that each deserves as much time and attention as the other. Of course I've not finished a third of my pile of unfinished minis so grinner may be right... :smallwink:

Heh. I'm still not finished with my Iyanden army, and that's the smallest of my three ... I'm doomed. Then again, that is the army where I'm spending as much time on troops as on commanders and monstrous creatures. Granted the results are nice, but who the heck can afford to spend 16 hours on a single troops choice? You'd go completely and irrevocably insane.

And grinner, the Rhino is the Damoclese in IA2. The only criticism of your model I have is of the dish and radio gear. Well, more specifically that it's mounted on the top hatch. If you were to disguise the join in the doors and the hand holds it would be a big improvement. Otherwise all good - and good to see an old school Rhino! :)

*grins* Actually it's pretty new-school now that I've dumped the twin-linked bolters and mounted a storm bolter next to the driver (don't ask me where I got that storm bolter ... I haven't a clue). My other Rhino is true old school, right down to the pathetic HK missile without launcher (I jury-rigged a launch rack out of a piece of sprue). I'll post a shot of that when I've got it painted in White Scars colors.

Thanks for the info on the Damocles; I KNEW I had the IA issue with it in PDF, I just couldn't remember the name or find the damned thing. I don't think I'll be using this Rhino that way very often, but it's nice to know where the option is.

:smallbiggrin:

BTW youse should call dat walka a Stampa ... 'coz it's lighter den a Stompa, but it'll still stamp stuff nice an' flat!

Zorg

2008-12-23, 11:43 AM

I've pretty much quit using Citadel paints, except for a very few specialty colors and a few pots I still haven't used up. They combine all the easy flow of thick mud with all the coverage of watery paste. I recommend the Reaper Master series. MUCH better stuff.

I use Citadel for two reasons - I'm just so used to the colour range and know what they all look like (having used them for close to 17 years now), and there's no easy way to get any other range near me.

Granted the results are nice, but who the heck can afford to spend 16 hours on a single troops choice? You'd go completely and irrevocably insane.

<_< ... >_>

I only spend around two hours on each...

*grins* Actually it's pretty new-school now that I've dumped the twin-linked bolters and mounted a storm bolter next to the driver (don't ask me where I got that storm bolter ... I haven't a clue). My other Rhino is true old school, right down to the pathetic HK missile without launcher (I jury-rigged a launch rack out of a piece of sprue). I'll post a shot of that when I've got it painted in White Scars colors.

Well really really old Rhinos didn't even have HKs, just a pair of bolters ;)

BTW youse should call dat walka a Stampa ... 'coz it's lighter den a Stompa, but it'll still stamp stuff nice an' flat!

Excellent suggestion! It shall be so, thanks! :smallbiggrin:

grinner666

2008-12-23, 01:06 PM

I use Citadel for two reasons - I'm just so used to the colour range and know what they all look like (having used them for close to 17 years now), and there's no easy way to get any other range near me.

There's these two wonderful new inventions you might look into. One's called the Internet, the other's called the postal service. :smalltongue:

<_< ... >_>

I only spend around two hours on each...

That's about right for a ten-man squad or a single character model. It's when you start spending an hour on each trooper that you start getting kinda crazy ... or crazier ...

Excellent suggestion! It shall be so, thanks! :smallbiggrin:

*bows* Thank you! Thank you! No ... no! No applause, please! Just throw money!! I have Wraithlords and Wave Serpents to buy ...

:smallbiggrin:

Eldan

2008-12-23, 01:09 PM

There's two problems stopping me from ordering my stuff via the internet: one is that i don't have a credit card, because the fees you pay on every transaction are insane over here, the other one is that sending stuff via post is either incredibly expensive or they just don't deliver into switzerland. Quote from some online shop: "Sorry, delivering there wouldn't be worth it, not enough customers." Damn nerd-free country. People here don't even know what a nerd is and don't understand if you try to explain.

Dragor

2008-12-23, 01:25 PM

Dragor - A brutal, metal cookie ;) I was thinking of using "You were born your brother's keeper // why can I see blood on your hands? // You became your brother's slayer // embrace again in death" and making it a Chaplain-mobile. But that would have been far to long to write and keep the murals. Might do it on the other Crusader I've got tho.

Yay for brutal metal cookie. *breaks teeth trying to eat it*

Hmm, that'd be just as good. I thought just the chorus to The Last Enemy would've done it good too.

The last enemy is falling
Here I am- to conquer death itself
The last enemy is falling
Here I stand- to conquer death itself

Suits the Marines to a tee, in my opinion. 'The Last Enemy' easily can refer to Chaos, or anyone else for that matter. Also typical morbid Marine bravado oozes off of that chorus. :smallbiggrin:

Bryn

2008-12-23, 03:26 PM

http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/Imperial%20Guard/Krieg/tanks/valdor1.jpg (http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/valdor.htm)
Emperor.

Why is Forge World so awesome?

grinner666

2008-12-23, 05:02 PM

http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/Imperial%20Guard/Krieg/tanks/valdor1.jpg (http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/valdor.htm)
Emperor.

Why is Forge World so awesome?

Heh. Heh-heh. Heh.

Hey, Butt-head! Let's BURN something!!!

:smallbiggrin:

grinner666

2008-12-24, 10:01 AM

Unfortunately I can't upload any new photos to the web cause the internet hates me, but I've got some older ones.

My Chaos Dreadnought:
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/uploads/1144445899/gallery_17464_564_43314.jpg
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/uploads/1144445899/gallery_17464_564_32590.jpg

I should've said this DAYS ago, but I LOVE that Dreadnought. There's something ... Lovecraftian about the multitude of eyes that's very, very cool. Very Chaos.

Just don't show it to my brother-in-law; he plays Chaos.

:smallbiggrin:

Zorg

2008-12-24, 11:57 AM

Ditto the Eyenought love! Not sure how I missed that bad boy - the ultimate chainsaw hand is very very cool :)

Hmm, that'd be just as good. I thought just the chorus to The Last Enemy would've done it good too
....
Suits the Marines to a tee, in my opinion. 'The Last Enemy' easily can refer to Chaos, or anyone else for that matter. Also typical morbid Marine bravado oozes off of that chorus. :smallbiggrin:

Saving that one for a Dreadnought - who better to conquer death itself ;)

Grinner - yeah, but there's a GW about 10 minutes up the road and it's right next to where my girlfriend works :smalltongue:

Ash08

2008-12-25, 06:08 PM

I recently (being this morining)got my hands on a set of vangaurd veterans and a jump pack chaplian. I spent 3 hours building them(first time with metal blisterpacks, had to learn as I went) and now need advice on how to precede in painting them because I heard you need to do some special stuff to them before hand.

Also, I've basicly (need my chapter symbol and chapter banner)finished my illegal 8 memeber space marine HQ squad(bought and built them in 4th edition when you could still do that:smallfurious:) I'll post a picture of them soon.

grinner666

2008-12-25, 06:31 PM

All you really need to do with metal minis is make sure you prime them first; I generally use spray auto primer as it's cheap and effective ... white or black, depending on the color I'm painting the figurines.

And hey ... the eight-man command squad is still legal ... so long as you're using them as an Honor Squad with a Chapter Master. The points cost is a little higher, so maybe you'll want to use them only in higher-points-total games, but you can still use the same figurines, at least.

:smallbiggrin:

Ash08

2008-12-25, 07:01 PM

Primer refering to the basecoat spray stuff right?

Oh and given the fact that my HQ squad (in 4th edition terms) costs 360 points, I'm not sure I want anything MORE expensive...

onasuma

2008-12-25, 07:09 PM

I recommend washing metal minis prior to priming, but thats just so you dont get anything stuck under tha paint that you forgot to clean.

grinner666

2008-12-25, 07:20 PM

Primer refering to the basecoat spray stuff right?

Right.

Oh and given the fact that my HQ squad (in 4th edition terms) costs 360 points, I'm not sure I want anything MORE expensive...

Why in the world are you worrying about 4E terms? You're playing 5E, aren't you?

But to be honest I think I'd rather have a Command Squad than an Honor Squad. A Command Squad has five men to an Honor Squad's three (for the same points), includes an Apothecary (not present in an Honor Squad) and has the option of taking melta guns, plasma guns, plasma pistols ... all not offered in an Honor Squad.

Ash08

2008-12-25, 07:23 PM

i had an idea a couple days ago that I may think of presenting to my playing group. To get my 8 member HQ squad into 5th edition, I'll spend the amount of points for 3 sterngaurd veteran to add the other 3 models plus the costs for their weapons. I hope they'll let me do that because my HQ squad is by far one of the best and most prestigious in my army.

grinner666

2008-12-26, 11:03 AM

So I've been trying to come up with symbol(s) I can use on my Space Marine vehicles that won't look like crap when painted by hand, as I'm running short on White Scars transfers and don't know if they come with any model other than the Land Raider Crusader (not only do I not really want another of those, but I'm pretty much done buying vehicles for my Marines; I've got enough for an army of about 2500 points already ... though I do want a Predator. Eventually).

Then I had an idea hit me in the forehead like a rubber mallet last night: the White Scars chapter is (sort of) organized like and (sort of) based on the culture of the Mongol armies of Genghis Khan; why not use Chinese and Japanese ideograms on their tanks? With a piece of fluff about no good White Scar willingly going into battle without the name of the Emperor inscribed on his vehicle in the ancient and secret tongue of the Khans?

There are at least three symbols for "Emperor" ... that ought to be useful ... and there's one that means "Sacred Fire" that ought to look awesome on the front of my Lascannon-and-Twin-Linked-Plasma-Guns Razorback ...

I'll post 'em if they turn out okay.

:smallbiggrin:

onasuma

2008-12-28, 10:55 AM

Huzzah for tyranids!

Huzzah for rare varients of carnefixes allowing large modeling scope!

The exocrine:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/082-1.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/081-1.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/080-1.png
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/083-1.jpg

Huzzah for plastic kits that can easily be changed to represent metal ones!

The hive tyrant:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/085-1.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/086-1.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/087-1.jpg

Huzzah for the hoard!

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/084-1.jpg

YPU

2008-12-28, 03:11 PM

Mc. Lovin'

2008-12-28, 03:55 PM

Ho nice, those ARE good O! I like the first one the best.

onasuma

2008-12-28, 04:11 PM

Wow, you know onasuma, you do what a lot of us dream of doing but never do. The shear impressiveness of them on the battlefield will be worth it in any case. Say, are there official rules for the exocrine?

No, but I wrote them. 150 points. As per carnefix but Ws2, Bs4 and S6 (S counts as 10 and attacks as 3 for firing weaponry). Comes equipped with a biocannon as standard and may take a twinlinked Barbed strangler at +30 points or twin linked Venom cannon for 45, as well as some of the more sutible carnefix upgrades for the same price. In standard games it just counts as a barbed strangler and a venom cannon with enchanced sense and spine banks.

Also, thanks for your kind words. I prefer the winged tyrant over the 'crin, but each to their own.

Edit: oh and on the dream front, ive wanted this army for august 05. I only now think im good enough to do them justice.

Edit 2, @ \/: Why thank you. I aim to please.

Mr._Blinky

2008-12-28, 08:47 PM

The hive tyrant:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/085-1.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/086-1.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/087-1.jpg

That is...unholy cool.

grinner666

2008-12-29, 11:50 AM

I love the look of the Tyranid army; I keep imagining a horde of them all done up in black and gray ... and slime ... like the Alien movies aliens.

Nice models, onasuma. Make sure you let us see when you've got 'em all painted up.

:smallbiggrin:

Vazzaroth

2008-12-29, 08:13 PM

I don't know how many Ork Players we have on this thread, but I've been trying to figure out how to represent with models what I want my army to be: A squad of 30 'Ard Boyz. Is there a conversion kit somewhere with big iron Gobs? Where can I find Ard Boy models? Is the only way to buy a bunch of Boyz squads for extra Shoulder Pads and Gobs?

I had the same problem when I wanted a bunch of Flamers for the Imperial Guard, and I imagine the answer will be the same: Ebay?

grinner666

2008-12-29, 10:33 PM

You could just buy some Boyz then see if anybody's got any extra Space Marine or Chaos Marine bitz (shoulder pads, arms, whatevva). OR you could just build little bitz of 'Ardness out of .3mm styrene sheets ... they should be available at any modeling shop, cheap.

Or buy a Tamiya "tank wheels" set (about eight bucks retail) and turn the (soft and pliable plastic) treads into armor. Or take bitz off any other vehicle, or hell, pieces of sprue, and turn them into armor. Or any and all of the above. Orks will turn anything into armor or weapons. There's dozens of options out there if you just look around a little.

:smallsmile:

I could prolly spare some SM shoulder pads, if you're interested. But you should definitely see if there's some kind of bitz box at your local games shop.

Vazzaroth

2008-12-29, 10:44 PM

Hmm, yes, thats a good idea. I might just have to steal some pads from my Space Marine friend.

grinner666

2008-12-29, 11:04 PM

I'm sure there's lots of bitz you could get from friends who play more heavily-armored (or even just more heavily-armored looking) armies. Tau, Space Marines both loyal and Chaos, IG players with bitz from Storm Trooper squads ... hell, I bet even Tyranid players'll have the odd interesting-looking piece of carapace you can put to use.

And remember ... 'Ard Boyz don't gotta have a uniform appearance, they just gotta look 'ARDER than the regular Boyz. So let yer imagination run wild.

:smallbiggrin:

KilltheToy

2008-12-29, 11:21 PM

I got the Assault on Black Reach just today. The first infantry I did I broke off the bar that acts as his feet when you base him, thinking it was sprue.

I dropped one of the Ork's head, and it has gone missing.

I had fun with glue, including the importance of reading the glue bottle to make sure you're not trying to glue plastic with wood glue.

And many of the models are loosely based and come off really easily.

In spite of all this, I'm having a crapload of fun modeling. Truly, this is plasticrack.

Vazzaroth

2008-12-30, 12:08 AM

In spite of myself, I had alot of fun making my bases, and cutting sprue. But the modeling isn't what I dread, it's painting... I havn't painted ANYTHING for at least 8 years, in Elementary School.

Anyway, I got the Hobby starter kit, and the Plastic Glue had a hole in it or something and the whole bottle was dried up in a pool, gluing the bottle to the plastic. I'm thinking of getting some glue at a (Closer) craft store. Is there a certain kind of glue I should look for? Is it just called Plastic Glue?

grinner666

2008-12-30, 12:20 AM

You want modeling cement. You won't be able to find it at Wal-Mart or Home Depot; believe me, I've tried. You'll need to look for a model shop ... or go online for it. If there's a local place that sells Games Workshop stuff, though, you should be able to get it there.

Vazzaroth

2008-12-30, 12:37 AM

I was planning on going to Michael's or some other craft store to look for some brushes and glue supplies.

Lord Mancow

2008-12-30, 02:56 AM

*Looks at pictures in thread*

Great pictures Playgrounders.

I need to ask a question.
When it comes to thinning your paints with water is there any particular way you should do this?
Should i just pour some water into a separate pot with some paint, pour water straight into the pot the paint comes in?

Do you guys have any tips for painting Ultramarines? All the models are plastic.

Lorn

2008-12-30, 03:42 AM

IG players with bitz from Storm Trooper squads ...
If only... the things are metal :( It's probably why they're so expensive and the reason I just use Cadian plastics for Stormtroopers and Catachans for normal troops.

*Looks at pictures in thread*

Great pictures Playgrounders.

I need to ask a question.
When it comes to thinning your paints with water is there any particular way you should do this?
Should i just pour some water into a separate pot with some paint, pour water straight into the pot the paint comes in?

Do you guys have any tips for painting Ultramarines? All the models are plastic.
I always put a bit of paint on a bit of cardboard (cereal box card does well) or something and added a little water. It thins the paint out, it's easier to get a small amount on your brush, the card or whatever doubles as a mixing palette, and so on.
Plus, if necessary you can label each mix... useful for getting fleshy tones right.
There's probably considerably better alternatives to card out there, though.

Vazzaroth

2008-12-30, 10:14 PM

Quick! I need help with a fairly snap decision!

Would this be acceptable to mod into an Ork Battlewagon?

http://i15.ebayimg.com/03/i/001/27/10/110f_1.JPG

http://i15.ebayimg.com/05/i/001/27/10/30b0_1.JPG

Anyone know approx. how big a battlewagon should be? In Inches?

Illiterate Scribe

2008-12-30, 10:25 PM

Quick! I need help with a fairly snap decision!

Would this be acceptable to mod into an Ork Battlewagon?

Needs a lot more dakka and gubbinz. Its current silhouette is too smooth, and you'd need to add a lot to change that.

Vazzaroth

2008-12-30, 10:45 PM

Of course Im going to be pretty much just using the frame, but I want to know if it's an appropriate size and such for modding before I buy it. I'll probably spray it black then see what kind of plastic bits I can get my hands on.

It even opens up so I can put my Meganobs inside, like I was planning to use it for anyway. (Open one can, then have to deal with 6 more)

grinner666

2008-12-30, 11:18 PM

You'd have to let us know what its measurements are before anybody (even a regular Ork player ... maybe Zorg) could possibly tell you. Maybe you could post another photo of the vehicle next to an Ork model?

In any case, I'd glue the bitz on before re-painting it ... in fact I'd see if I could scrape off its current paint job before sticking extra bitz on, were I you. At least in the places where you're going to put those bitz. Is it made of plastic, or metal? If plastic you might be able to attach the extra bitz with modeling cement; otherwise I'd use epoxy; it gives a longer-lasting seal than does superglue.

In any case, it looks like it should have the 'Ard Case vehicle upgrade ... which is something I'd recommend for any Battlewagon or Trukk ... but then I loathe open-topped vehicles. Just a personal dislike.

But all in all it looks like it might make an excellent Orky vehicle.

:smallbiggrin:

Vazzaroth

2008-12-30, 11:29 PM

Oh yes, I was planning on making it NOT open topped. In fact I may seal the ability to open the toy that I mentioned above if warranted.

The dimensions are approximately 8" wide X 14" long X 7" tall. See, I am trying to decide if I want to buy this from Ebay, so this is all I have to work with so far. I'm worried it would be too long, but I haven't seen a battlewagon in person, so I don't know if it's huge, or the correct size.

The toy was obviously made for larger figures but I think it might be do-able. Also, this is the only other picture:

http://i16.ebayimg.com/07/i/001/27/10/4d00_1.JPG

Edit: It's plastic. And it has a working winch in front. That might come in handy... Too bad the rocket launchers don't come with rockets. Oh well, I'm sure I can find something Orky to stuff them with. :smallamused:

Zorg

2008-12-31, 12:15 AM

I use a pringles lid for mixing. For watering down I often don't, and if I have to it's usually only for small amounts so get some paint on my pallet and put a little water in it there.

A battlewagon is as big as it needs to be to fit on all its dakka and crushas ;) The new kit's around 8" long and 3 1/2" wide. For an Apoc game the party wagon would work as a Dethfortress, but for a regular battle it'd probably be too big a target for what you want it to be (and take up too much of the table :smalltongue: )

Working with toys the only thing to be careful with is the plastic used is very seldom styrene. Basically it will probably need to be sanded over first and heavily primed (auto body spray is best) before miniature type paints will stick, and it may not like being glued with plastic glue. Also different parts of the body may be of different plastics so some parts may glue and others not.

Here's a tank my brother made out of an old GI Joe Vehicle and spare Zoids bits (and in desperate need of dusting):
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/GIJT1.jpg

Alsmost finished my first Rainbow Warrior assault troops, just need to ink their jump packs:
Master Sergeant Boon and two troopers.
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/RWA1.jpgThe 5-1-1 on his knee is Company-Squad-Element (as in combat squad) so the second five in the squad will be 5-1-2. They're basically codex, with a few tweaks to colouring and ranks. The main exception is that for veterans and sergeants only the mouthplate is coloured rather than the whole helmet.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/Gotthammer/40k/RWA2.jpgClose up of one of the troopers showing the helmet stripes. They were actually quite easy to paint in the end and didn't take that long to do.

And the Ork Stampa came a close second in the conversion comp :smallbiggrin:

grinner666

2008-12-31, 12:32 AM

I suspected when I saw the measurements that that toy would probably be too big for a normal game; too bad, it would'a been pretty awesome.

The only "watering down" I ever do is when my paints have been sitting around long enough to have dried out ... I recently had to water down basically my entire collection, and some of them had dried enough that watering them down did nothing for them. *sighs* :smalleek:

When I have to do that, I just dump water into the paint jar until the paint achieves a consistency that seems right ... of course I dump that water VERY CAREFULLY ... :smallwink:

For mixing I tend to prefer using an old styrofoam meat tray; they make wonderful paint palettes. They don't absorb the paint so you can use basically everything you mix, yet the paint will still be there if you need to match that color again later. Also, they're big enough to not need to worry about spilling them accidentally ... a major concern when you're a major klutz like me.

:smallbiggrin:

Killersquid

2008-12-31, 01:31 AM

Vazzaroth

2008-12-31, 10:38 AM

I finished painting my first model, an Ork Boy. Yay! I'd put up a picture, but the laptop's webcam is incredibad, so I'll borrow the digital camera tomorrow and take a picture of it to show and ask for advice.

Huzzah, a fellow new ork player! (or at least painter)

Another question: What kind of paint should I look for if, say, I am lacking Black Undercoat spray, but the game shop is closed for New Years, but the store that sells spraypaint isn't, and I've made plans to paint an army tonight with a friend? :smallamused:
Is there a special kind I should look for?

grinner666

2008-12-31, 11:49 AM

Huzzah, a fellow new ork player! (or at least painter)

Another question: What kind of paint should I look for if, say, I am lacking Black Undercoat spray, but the game shop is closed for New Years, but the store that sells spraypaint isn't, and I've made plans to paint an army tonight with a friend? :smallamused:
Is there a special kind I should look for?

Just about any flat black (or white) spray paint will work. What I've found works best, though, is auto primer.

starwoof

2008-12-31, 05:06 PM

Yesterday my friend sold me 6 space marine bikers for $30! I've started to nurgletize them already. :3 I'm going to add some more robes and stuff to the ordinaries.

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l121/starwoof2/me002.jpg

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l121/starwoof2/me003.jpg

I've got 2 more in brake fluid (who are going to have plasma guns) and a Lord who isn't impressive enough to show off yet. Cheers.

First Speaker

2008-12-31, 06:14 PM

Nurglicious.

evil_d4_swarm

2008-12-31, 06:20 PM

Here is another (newly finished and painted) crisis suit:

http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/ww327/evil_d4_swarm/100_0062.jpg
http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/ww327/evil_d4_swarm/100_0067.jpg
http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/ww327/evil_d4_swarm/100_0065.jpg
http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/ww327/evil_d4_swarm/100_0064.jpg

This is my best model so far (I am very proud of it:smallbiggrin:).

grinner666

2008-12-31, 06:57 PM

Keris

2008-12-31, 07:44 PM

Why brake fluid?

Strips the old paint off. I think, never bought old minis myself.

starwoof

2008-12-31, 08:07 PM

Niiiiiiiiiiiiiiice. :smallsmile:

Why brake fluid?

Thanks.:smallsmile:

Brake fluid strips the paint off of models well. It acts pretty fast and doesn't hurt the models.

grinner666

2008-12-31, 08:47 PM

Hmmmmmm ... cheaper than Simple Green, too.

Thanks for the tip; I've got some (ex) Black Templars marines gonna be gettin' a bath real soon!

:smallwink:

starwoof

2008-12-31, 08:50 PM

:smallbiggrin:

Ive got a little tub of brake fluid on my bookshelf right now. I've been using the same fluid for like 3 years so its really diluted and works very slowly, but it does work. Awesome stuff.

evil_d4_swarm

2008-12-31, 09:06 PM

Those bikes are awesome. :smallbiggrin:

PS: Does anyone know what Commander Shadowsun is made of? The GW web page does not say. :smallconfused:

Bryn

2008-12-31, 09:35 PM

PS: Does anyone know what Commander Shadowsun is made of? The GW web page does not say. :smallconfused:

Metal :smallwink:.
If it's a model with no/very few options, it's probably metal.
If it's a Troops choice, it's probably plastic.
If there are a whole bunch of options, it's probably plastic.
If it mentions plastic in the name... yeah, you guessed it.
If it's from Forge World, it's resin.

The bikes are rather nice indeed. Looking forward to seeing them finished and painted.

evil_d4_swarm

2008-12-31, 09:40 PM

Metal :smallwink:.
If it's a model with no/very few options, it's probably metal.
If it's a Troops choice, it's probably plastic.
If there are a whole bunch of options, it's probably plastic.
If it mentions plastic in the name... yeah, you guessed it.
If it's from Forge World, it's resin.

The bikes are rather nice indeed. Looking forward to seeing them finished and painted.

Darn. I hate metal models.:smallannoyed:

Keris

2009-01-01, 12:08 AM

Darn. I hate metal models.:smallannoyed:

Any particular reason? I prefer them to plastic myself. Metal models have a nicer weight to them, and are often more detailed. The lack of options can be a problem, but once I learn to sculpt...I might do some sculpting.

evil_d4_swarm

2009-01-01, 12:21 AM

Any particular reason? I prefer them to plastic myself. Metal models have a nicer weight to them, and are often more detailed. The lack of options can be a problem, but once I learn to sculpt...I might do some sculpting.

I just cannot stand super-glue. It always, no matter how many precautions I take, manages to spill on me.

grinner666

2009-01-01, 12:21 AM

Any particular reason? I prefer them to plastic myself. Metal models have a nicer weight to them, and are often more detailed. The lack of options can be a problem, but once I learn to sculpt...I might do some sculpting.

I only hate them when I'm trying to modify them.

Hey, you try sawing a shuriken catapult off a Wraithlord's arm so you can saw a flamer off another Wraithlord's arm and epoxy it in place on the first. Flippin' NIGHTMARE, mon.

:smallbiggrin:

grinner666

2009-01-01, 12:24 AM

I just cannot stand super-glue. It always, no matter how many precautions I take, manages to spill on me.

Use Epoxy instead. Seriously. It takes longer to dry and you've got to hold it in place, and you usually end up wasting some of it, but the seal is sooooooooo much better you won't believe it ... and it won't stick to your skin for months on end before it wears away.

:smallwink:

evil_d4_swarm

2009-01-01, 12:26 AM

Use Epoxy instead. Seriously. It takes longer to dry and you've got to hold it in place, and you usually end up wasting some of it, but the seal is sooooooooo much better you won't believe it ... and it won't stick to your skin for months on end before it wears away.

:smallwink:

What's epoxy? When the super glue gets on me, I use a nail file to get it off.

Killersquid

2009-01-01, 02:54 AM

What's epoxy?

Two part epoxy adhesive, or "green stuff".

Bryn

2009-01-01, 10:00 AM

Not the same as green stuff, although green stuff can be used as an adhesive.

A commonly known brand (at least as far as I know) is Araldite, but there are lots of other similar glues.

Basically, you have two tubes with different substances (resin and hardener) in them. You put those on a surface and mix them together, taking enormous care not to get one in the other tube. Once they're thoroughly mixed, you apply the glue using a toothpick or some other thing. It's extremely strong, but slow-setting.

I prefer using superglue, to be honest. Epoxy resin takes hours to set, and is harder to prepare. Additionally, you have to be very careful not to accidentally stick something with it, because it will not come apart. (Supposedly. Despite its reputation, I have seen epoxy resin break - I believe it was a metal Space Marine, whose arm came off.)

In comparison, superglue isn't as strong, but it's good enough. You can apply it with a brush, so it's harder to get something permanently stuck with it. That said, it sticks to skin better than anything I've seen, and it's all too easy to get superglue on your fingers, which is really annoying to get rid of. The big advantage is that it sets quickly, so you can build a model all in one go.

Eldan

2009-01-01, 10:27 AM

For some reason, I just can't paint metal models. Is there some trick to it? I think my plastic models look pretty good, details and all, but as soon as I take some metal into my hand, everything looks horrible.

Erloas

2009-01-01, 10:43 AM

One thing I've found works very well for glueing models is to get a thing of the non drying sculpting putty (I think it has a more offical name that I just can't think of). Given it doesn't take the place of glue but it makes glueing things 100% easier because you make a little ball out of the putty and use that to hold the pieces in place while they dry. Since I found the tip to doing that on a Battletech site about 6 months ago I've been using it all the time and its an invaluable tool. You can pick up a thing of more putty then you will ever need from Wal-Mart for a few dollars in the arts and crafts section.

It makes it so you can glue a piece and then set it down and start on the next piece before it has even started to set. This is especially helpful for metal models because while it only takes about 30 seconds for superglue to set up on most plastics it, but it can take up to 5 minutes for it to set up on metals (it has to do with how porous the material is, which is why it bonds your skin almost instantly). (those setting times provided by Loctite's information sheet on most of their glues) The other thing is that even a slight move in a part durning the setting process can greatly reduce the strength of the bond, so you will get much stronger bonds if you can set the piece and leave it. Also while it doesn't take too long to set, in some cases (larger gaps and metals especially) it does still take superglue quite a while to fully cure.

What I've done with all my metal models is glue their arms on and leave them overnight. So far I have yet to have any fall off and right now they are kind of loose in my carrying case (because I wanted to check how easy they were going to break because its better to have them break now then after they are painted) so they seem fairly durable. Which I'm very glad for because I wasn't looking forward to pinning four dozen arms and now it doesn't look like I'm going to need to.

edit: Eldan:
Are you getting a good primer coat on the metal models? Once you have them primered there should be no difference at all between painting metals and plastics. Since the surface conditions of the original material are completely covered by the primer you shouldn't be able to see any real difference. If you are having trouble getting your primer to stick then you probably just need to make sure you wash your models before primering them. I've also got a bottle of paint-on primer to touch up those hard to get spots on my models that the spray didn't cover well.

grinner666

2009-01-01, 11:08 AM

I prefer using superglue, to be honest. Epoxy resin takes hours to set, and is harder to prepare

Harder to prepare, yes ... considering that you actually have to prepare it before use. But "hours to set"?? Uhhhhhh ... no. Seven-minute epoxy is called that for a reason.

:smalltongue:

One thing I've found works very well for glueing models is to get a thing of the non drying sculpting putty (I think it has a more offical name that I just can't think of). Given it doesn't take the place of glue but it makes glueing things 100% easier because you make a little ball out of the putty and use that to hold the pieces in place while they dry. Since I found the tip to doing that on a Battletech site about 6 months ago I've been using it all the time and its an invaluable tool. You can pick up a thing of more putty then you will ever need from Wal-Mart for a few dollars in the arts and crafts section.

That is an excellent suggestion. Thanks ... I may never use Superglue again!

:smallbiggrin:

Eldan

2009-01-01, 11:22 AM

Sure I prime them, nice and clean, same way as my plastic models. Spray primer, the one games workshop sells. For some reason they just never look good after painting.

Illiterate Scribe

2009-01-01, 11:49 AM

That said, it sticks to skin better than anything I've seen, and it's all too easy to get superglue on your fingers, which is really annoying to get rid of.

It's because the cyanoacrylate (the plastic-y stuff in superglue) bonds when in the presence of water. That's why it doesn't dry in the bottle, bonds almost instantly when on skin, and why if you accidentally brush something moist with the little GW brush, OH FRAK THE BOTTLE IS USELESS

Zorg

2009-01-01, 12:27 PM

KilltheToy

2009-01-01, 12:54 PM

In comparison, superglue isn't as strong, but it's good enough. You can apply it with a brush, so it's harder to get something permanently stuck with it. That said, it sticks to skin better than anything I've seen, and it's all too easy to get superglue on your fingers, which is really annoying to get rid of. The big advantage is that it sets quickly, so you can build a model all in one go.

I used superglue to get some models that refused to stay on their bases to stay on, and now some of the (especially the terminators) have some areas that have turned white. Note that they're all unpainted.

Regarding Super Glue on fingers. (http://www.wikihow.com/Get-Super-Glue-Off-Fingers)

grinner666

2009-01-01, 12:55 PM

Epoxy does have its uses, as it is more rubbery and far less prone to shattering than regular old superglue. i only use it on big projects like forge world stuff, and then only on high stress joins - titans ankles, hips and such.

Eldan, what exactly do you mean by not as good?

I used to find it almost impossible to hold the old Wraithlord figurines together with Superglue, but epoxy works just fine on big, heavy metal pieces. Also, you're absolutely right: it's far less likely to break. The first time I used it was at my father's suggestion when one of my (Superglued) Talos' claws just fell off in my hand one day.

Speaking of which ... I was just going thru my Bitz box and realized I actually have enough leftover pieces to put together a complete Wraithlord ... with either a Starcannon or Missile Launcher. I'll be back tomorrow!!

:smalltongue:

And yeah, Eldan ... show us some samples. Preferably with a similar-sized plastic piece so we can compare. Maybe we'll be able to come up with some recommendations.

Eldan

2009-01-01, 03:07 PM

I don't have a camera, but I'll go and beat up some friends tomorrow.

Illiterate Scribe

2009-01-01, 03:58 PM

I don't have a camera, but I'll go and beat up some friends tomorrow.

Is that a general promise, or in order to get a camera?

Eldan

2009-01-01, 04:34 PM

For the camera. Also, it's a metaphorical beating :smalltongue:

Bryn

2009-01-01, 05:32 PM

I used superglue to get some models that refused to stay on their bases to stay on, and now some of the (especially the terminators) have some areas that have turned white. Note that they're all unpainted.
I think that's pretty common, and it won't be visible when you paint them.

Harder to prepare, yes ... considering that you actually have to prepare it before use. But "hours to set"?? Uhhhhhh ... no. Seven-minute epoxy is called that for a reason. :smalltongue:
Hah, if only I'd had some of that back then. The stuff I had did, unfortunately, take hours to set. Guess I just picked the wrong glue :smallamused:
[hr]
I has a Centaur now.
http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/6222/centfullsn7.png
http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/3025/centfrontzr7.png
http://img111.imageshack.us/img111/1758/centbackvh5.png
http://img111.imageshack.us/img111/6919/machariuscentaurcomparicn2.png
There's something about the Centaur that makes it look bigger on a camera than in real life. Probably perspective. The real thing is tiny!

The bars across the top (with the stubber) haven't been glued on yet, they're waiting for me to paint it.

I also now have five Death Korps of Krieg, formerly crew of the tank. Any advice on what to do with them? They can't crew the Centaur without looking completely out of place in the middle of my Cadian-armour-wearing army.

Lorn

2009-01-01, 05:36 PM

I also now have five Death Korps of Krieg, formerly crew of the tank. Any advice on what to do with them? They can't crew the Centaur without looking completely out of place in the middle of my Cadian-armour-wearing army.
Hardened Veterans? Treat them as a sort of infiltration squad, get a couple more with special weapons...

Diorama? No idea what they look like.

Try and sell them on? Some people might pay money for them which can be used to get more models.

Paint them up really nicely for display?

Aside from that, the tanks look pretty nice. Can't help feeling that the Centaur looks a bit weak, though... I'm guessing it's some sort of fast scout vehicle?

Eldan

2009-01-01, 05:43 PM

Keris

2009-01-01, 06:02 PM

Yes, what's it for? In the imperium, strong weapon are usually also large, and it doesn't have them, it doesn't look particularily fast, and it most likely isn't a transport either, so what does it do?

Towing Artillery. Or whatever else they decide to use it for, like transporting command squads or as a comms vehicle. Mainly used for towing artillery though.

Bryn

2009-01-01, 06:26 PM

It is pretty fast actually - when it isn't towing a gun, it's a Fast Vehicle (under 5e that's max 18" or 24" on a road when moving flat out). Sure, not as fast as a fast skimmer or a flyer, but definitely quick enough for my purposes. It's also a transport with space for five models.

This is going to be the first of two or three, each one containing a Command Squad armed with four flamers. Flamers are wonderful at close range, but they take a long time to get into position. Putting them in an open-topped fast vehicle lets them drive straight up to large enemy squads, particularly Gaunts, and Orks and start burning without risking getting torn to shreds in close combat.

Right now, my command squads are pretty much useless - they don't reach the enemy to use flamers until late in the game, and the HQ command squad keeps morale in check with the Master Vox so they're not needed for that. Putting them in Centaurs will allow them to be a lot more mobile so I can actually use those flamers for something :smallamused:

It's easy to kill, but every shot at the Centaur is a shot that isn't at one of my other tanks.

grinner666

2009-01-01, 07:05 PM

That's not a bad choice at all ... though I might change out the weapons the squad is carrying depending on the army I'm fighting (I'm a big fan of plasma guns, but maybe that's because most of the armies I play have decent armor saves if the weapon gets hot). I assume it's open-topped, so all the models in the squad can fire?

It's good to finally be seeing some IG Fast Attack choices that are actually fast, though. I think my favorite ForgeWorld model so far is the Salamander Scout ... and I don't even play Imperial Guard.

At least ... not yet ...

:smallwink:

starwoof

2009-01-01, 10:08 PM

I also like the salamander. I hear they're being included in the new codex.

I painted my Nurgle Lord. After he single handedly killed a whole unit of sternguard veterans I figured he deserved it.:smalltongue: Not totally happy with him but he'll do for now. One of my resolutions was to get off my ass and paint my army.

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l121/starwoof2/me004.jpg

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l121/starwoof2/me005.jpg

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l121/starwoof2/me006.jpg

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l121/starwoof2/me007.jpg

I plan on doing some touch ups and hit some of the areas I left black. :P

evil_d4_swarm

2009-01-01, 10:27 PM

That biker lord is awesome.

onasuma

2009-01-02, 06:45 AM

I agree with the above statement. It looks freakin sweet (although maybe not enough fungus for my liking). Also, just wondering, how did you do the roses?

starwoof

2009-01-02, 07:13 AM

Fungus. How did I not think of that?:smalltongue: I think I need to go back and add some growths to the rest of Nurgle's Angels.

I wish that I could say that I did those roses, but they came on the scythe (which is from the empire wizard sprue). When I do roses though I take very thin pieces of greenstuff and turn it up on the sides like a pie. Then I do another layer or two after that hardens a little. Its probably really hard to do them in that size, too.

onasuma

2009-01-02, 07:23 AM

starwoof

2009-01-02, 07:26 AM

I remember it, I just can't believe I never thought of it.:smallannoyed: Nurgle is new and exciting for me.

onasuma

2009-01-02, 07:34 AM

Welcome to the club. Back when i started nurgle they were green, all had three holes drilled in their sholder pads and that was that. Now days, everything has its weight in greenstuff to carry.

Ash08

2009-01-02, 12:00 PM

I'm almost done painting my 4 tactical squads(3.8 of them done) and I'm starting to think about putting the decal thingies on... I don't quite understand the GW instructions so can someone please explain exactly how to do it?

onasuma

2009-01-02, 03:40 PM

So, its nidzilla time again.

HQ

Hive tyrant, wings, acid maw, adrenal glands ws, toxin sacs, toxic miasma, scything talons, scything talons, warp field (198)

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/081-3.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/080-3.jpg

Hive tyrant, adrenal glands I, adrenal glands WS, Extended carapace, Toxin sacs, Devourer, Scything talons, psycic scream (161)

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/164-1.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/167-1.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/166-1.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/165-1.jpg

Eliets

Carnefix, 2 x scything talons, bioplasma, Adrenal glands [Ws] (113)

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/160-1.jpg

Carnefix, 2 x twin linked devoureres, spine banks (110)

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/088-2.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/087-4.jpg

Carnefix, lash whips, scything talons, toxic miasma, Adrenal gland WS (115)

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/090-1.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/089-2.jpg

Heavy support

Carnefix, Barbed strangler, crushing claws, toxin sacs, tusked, adrenal sacs (both), tail weapon – scythe (161)

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/162-1.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/161-1.jpg

Carnefix (exocrine), venom cannon, barbed strangler, enhanced senses, extended carapace, bonded exoskeleton, Reinforce chitin, spine banks (218)

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/083-3.jpg

Carnefix, Crushing claws, venom cannon, Adrenal glands (I), Adrenal glands (ws), bioplasma, bonded exoskeleton, Regenerate, Reinforce chitin, extended carapace, enhanced senses, Implant attack, tusked, toxin sacs, toxic miasma, tail weapon, scythe (303)

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/085-3.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/086-3.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/084-2.jpg

And on another note, this is simon:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/168-1.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/169-1.jpg

and scale

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/170-1.jpg

and finally, a group shot:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o151/pal153/171-1.jpg

Illiterate Scribe

2009-01-02, 04:22 PM

That's a lot of monstrous creature.

grinner666

2009-01-02, 04:44 PM

Thanks.:smallsmile:

Brake fluid strips the paint off of models well. It acts pretty fast and doesn't hurt the models.

So I've got my Space Marines in their brake fluid bath. How long should I expect to have to leave them there with a brand-new bottle of the stuff? And will I have to scrub them clean with a toothbrush or something, or just rinse them off?

Thanks for the tip, I was getting REALLY tired of their horrendous Black Templars paint job.

:smallbiggrin:

Pretty awesome beasties, onasuma.

starwoof

2009-01-02, 05:14 PM

So I've got my Space Marines in their brake fluid bath. How long should I expect to have to leave them there with a brand-new bottle of the stuff? And will I have to scrub them clean with a toothbrush or something, or just rinse them off?

Thanks for the tip, I was getting REALLY tired of their horrendous Black Templars paint job.

:smallbiggrin:

A few days at least. I usually leave them in for at least three, then pull them out and scrub them down with a toothbrush. There's sometimes paint gunk left in the crevices so you may need to take a knife or a toothpick to those parts. Stripping paint is annoying.

Astrella

2009-01-02, 06:28 PM

Here are some macragge models I painted and a few of my tau.

Genestealer
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee274/sirroelivan/P5030227.jpg

Termagaunt
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee274/sirroelivan/P5030227.jpg

Sergeant Ocatavian
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee274/sirroelivan/PA210027.jpg

Spore mine
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee274/sirroelivan/PA210029.jpg

Fire Warrior
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee274/sirroelivan/P2190010.jpg

Gun drone
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee274/sirroelivan/P2190009.jpg

evil_d4_swarm

2009-01-02, 08:37 PM

Those tau are great.

grinner666

2009-01-02, 09:03 PM

Actually I can barely see the fire warrior (crappy lighting, dood :smallwink:) but the spore mine and the gun drone are frikkin' awesome. The Sergeant's pretty damn cool, too.

:smallbiggrin:

Edit: BTW aren't your Genestealer and Termagant photos exactly the same? If they're different I can't see the differences.

:smalltongue:

Myatar_Panwar

2009-01-08, 09:19 PM

So, my first paintjob on my Tau didn't work out so well. I tried a difficult job when I was a novice, and used a poor combination of primer and paint. After giving up on it (I didn't know about using simple green/etc. for taking out paint at the time), I re-primered everything. A few years later, here I am, painting these guys up.

I haven't painted in a long time (nor was I very good at it back then), but I think this scheme will work out okay. Pics (not embedded because they are huge and would cause some massive H-Scroll, and I'm too lazy to change them :3 Also sorry about the poor picture quality

A Fire Warrior
http://img140.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1001888uz4.jpg
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/8886/1001891qk8.jpg

A Drone
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/9672/1001905mx2.jpg

My Devilfish
This one still needs some touch up work for sure.
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/4908/1001898da0.jpg
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/9421/1001899au5.jpg

I like the color scheme quite a bit. I imagine these Tau as being the personal force of the air sept. High quality pilots and mechs.

Any suggestions for the sept marking shapes and color? (the lines you tipically see on fire warrior helm's and guns). I really have no idea. Also any general advice on how I can improve them further/improve future units?

grinner666

2009-01-09, 12:57 AM

Nice work. I like the color scheme ... though I keep wondering (for my own forces too), why is it NO ARMY in the 40k universe seems to have ever heard of camouflage?

:smallbiggrin:

You're right, the Devilfish needs a little cleaning up, but it's much better than my most recent Rhino attempt. :smallyuk:

I hate painting vehicles. I can never tell where to shadow them, I can't make them look dirtied by the battlefield worth a damn, and the lines between different armor panels never come out clean. If I didn't need 'em for my play style I'd field nothing but infantry.

:smalleek:

Vazzaroth

2009-01-09, 01:03 AM

I hate metal minis.

Any tips on getting them to bond with superglue? Mine and my War-buddies have fallen apart a total of 4 times already.

I feel bad for him though, hes got a whole Thunderfire Cannon to put together, I've just got a WeirdBoy. :smalltongue: Thats what he gets for having a weapon that shoots 4 blast templates a turn :smallmad:

On a related note: The Loota box only allows for 4 lootas and a mek!? Arg! I wanted 5 loota! :smallannoyed:

grinner666

2009-01-09, 01:57 AM

File both surfaces down and make sure they're smooth. Also, wash the pieces with soapy water and let them dry thoroughly before gluing them.

Prayer might help.

Honestly, I loathe Superglue with a passion I usually reserve for ex-girlfriends. :smallbiggrin: If the pieces are big enough, you might want to consider using a good five-minute epoxy instead.

Eldan

2009-01-09, 02:09 AM

Speak for yourself on the no camouflage issue... my entire army wears nightfight-camouflage (well, except for the half of it that consists of aspect-warriors), or in the ranger's case, desert camouflage.

Erloas

2009-01-09, 10:16 AM

I hate metal minis.

Any tips on getting them to bond with superglue? Mine and my War-buddies have fallen apart a total of 4 times already.

As I said earlier (though now I'm not totally sure if it was in this thread or the previous 40k tactics thread) what I found that helps a lot is to have some putty to help hold the pieces in place while the glue dries.
Here is the article I got the advice from. (http://www.camospecs.com/Article.asp?FictionID=6) Superglue takes a while to dry on non-porous surfaces, such as metals, so even with superglue (as opposed to the epoxy they are using) the parts have to be held in place without moving for quite a while before you are going to get a good bond.
Pinning is the other obvious thing to do to help hold metal (and all) models together.
I've mostly been using Loctite 404, which I'm told is very expensive, (I don't know because I get it from work) but it works very well. I've also tried the Gorilla glue superglue and it seems to be good too, its probably about the same cost as the GW glue, but its probably 2-3x as expensive as "normal" superglue.
Also the strength of the bond of superglue and the dry time are directly related to how big of a gap you are gluing, so make sure the pieces fit as closely together as possible.

I would say first, if at all possible, pin and only on pieces too small to pin (at least if it sticks out at all, such as arms, not an issue holding two relatively large flat pieces together such as halves of a torso) would you rely only on superglue.

I haven't used epoxies much, they aren't that great for lots of little things because you have to mix them and its impractical to mix just a little bit, but for large complex models its worth it.

And as Grinner666 said, wash your parts well before you start.

I would also recommend letting any glue set for at least a couple hours on metals before doing anything with them. I would also recommend testing the glue joints before priming and painting so that if they break they can be fixed easier.

Winterwind

2009-01-09, 03:09 PM

onasuma

2009-01-09, 03:26 PM

Being completely new to this whole modeling, painting etc. stuff I'm sure I'll have a ton of questions soon (especially now that I finally have almost all of my planned army's models right next to me :smallbiggrin: - though I promise I won't run to you with everything, I'll read some guides on the Internet first :smallwink:), but first of all a simple one...

Would it be allowed if, instead of those jump packs, I used wings for Raptors? I'm thinking about a small unit of all winged Raptors as personal guard for a likewise winged Chaos Sorcerer, and imagine it might look fairly cool, but would such heavily modified models be usually permitted?

Easily permitted. In fact, its suggested in the codex.

Heck, unless its a vast shrink in size, most things are generally fine. My chaos penitents counting as dreadnaughts has never been a problem with anyone, although my grymn (space dwarves) have problems due to their small size. To counter act this I generally use this rule:

Small but mighty:

Despite their small size, grymn are easily the equal of the average human in terms of agility, strength and constitution. However, in order to achieve this, each limb of the grymn contains vital organs and and therefore losing an arm and leg comes with much more grevious results that a simlar effect would have on a human. When checking to see if a unit can see a squad of grymn, if any part of the model can be seen, it counts as being able to shoot them (this replaces the normal rule that you must be able to hit the body of a model).

Anyhow, simple rules like that can help if people have a problem, but not much in the way of asthetics is considered a problem

grinner666

2009-01-10, 08:09 AM

Hey! I finished painting my White Scars Dreadnought last night; pictures and a short introductory blurb are here:

http://grinner666.deviantart.com/art/Dreadnought-109007937

Only 49 models left to paint to finish my 2000 point army ... :smalleek:

Let me know what'cha think!!

:smallbiggrin:

Erloas

2009-01-10, 10:23 AM

Its pretty good, though I would recommend a wash/ink or hand-lining some of the details on the white. As it is the model details kind of just blend in with everything else. Most noticably on the front between the main armor panels, and on the joints to the arms and legs.

Washing/inking is faster but it would mean having to do a second coat on the primary surfaces.
Hand-lining is a lot more time consuming and more difficult, but it doesn't require going over the rest again (at least once you get good at lining, otherwise you will still have to go back and touch up parts.)

Vorpal Soda

2009-01-10, 08:47 PM

Here's an Eldar warlock I painted. It's the most recent one I have painted, and the only one I have a picture of on this computer. The others are in the same style, with deliberate emphasis on bold bright colours, instead of being dirty or realistic. Whilst it's obviously an easier way to paint, I still prefer the way it looks, and whilst I may try to learn to actually shade and add grit to models someday, I won't do it with my 40k army.

http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/2089/warlockjq4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Yes, the half mask is deliberate.

I will eventually explain why a Craftworld Eldar force would have such colours, but at the time I didn't know as much about the setting, and didn't realise that I had dressed up my Eldar in the colours of their greatest enemy.

Winterwind

2009-01-11, 09:07 AM

Okay, the stupidity of my next question astounds even me, but I'm thoroughly confused...

So, I finally started to put together all those figures from the Black Reach box (better to start off with those for training, I figure, instead of my Chaos army proper), and I notice that models such as the Terminators or that Dreadnought have those bits at their legs that seem to go into some holes to fix them in place. Sure enough, the bases do have such holes... but on what is, by my understanding, rather clearly meant to be the downside of the base. So, are those holes only for people who want to put those models together without using glue, and I should just clip off those bits that would go into the holes and glue them on the topside of the base, or is one meant to use those holes after and fill the base up with a thick layer of putty and sand, or what? :smallconfused:
(I just hope somebody out there has the Black Reach box and can therefore actually understand my confusing ramblings...)

grinner666

2009-01-11, 09:22 AM

If the base is anything like the Wraithlord base (on the old metal models, at least) what you need to do is use a hobby knife and drill thru the base with its tip; I'd suggest starting on the underside so you know you're in the right place.

:smallbiggrin:

Winterwind

2009-01-11, 09:27 AM

onasuma

2009-01-11, 09:32 AM

Ohhh... yeah, that makes more sense... :smallbiggrin:

I just hope with enough glue I can fix that for the one Terminator for whom I did clip that part off before realizing that it probably was not meant to be clipped off...

Did I get that right that the proper order is to first glue the model to the base, then texture the base, and then to prime the whole thing? That's, at least, what the guides on the Games Workshop homepage seem to suggest...

I build, then prime, then paint, then texture personally. Helps get places like feet done easily.

By the way, is there any reason you arent modding the Black reach models into chaos marines? It can be easily done just by using appropriet colours and red lines through any imperial insignia. Just say they only recently went renagade.

Eldan

2009-01-11, 09:32 AM

I usually paint my models first and then glue them on, but I guess both work. I just think that it allows me to access details better.

Winterwind

2009-01-11, 09:52 AM

I build, then prime, then paint, then texture personally. Helps get places like feet done easily.The guide on the GW page suggested texturing before priming, so the primer would act as sealant on the sand, hence me asking. Is the texture really meant to be primed at all, as they said? I do not entirely understand why this would be necessary, wouldn't the paint stick to the sand anyway?

By the way, is there any reason you arent modding the Black reach models into chaos marines? It can be easily done just by using appropriet colours and red lines through any imperial insignia. Just say they only recently went renagade.Well, one reason - I will probably be playing mostly at the Games Workshop, and the people whom I asked there said they, personally, don't think too highly of this practice (which was to be expected, I guess - they want to make sales, after all).

Second reason (and also why I did not really mind the first), I already got more than enough Chaos Space Marines from the Chaos Battleforce package. Since my planned army lists feature more special troops like berzerkers, plague marines, noise marines and alike, I don't need all that many basic marine models.

And third reason, if I ever play with my friends (who do not collect any army of their own at all yet, though I'm working on that :smallbiggrin:) at home, the marines from Black Reach would already be 585 points worth of army that could be used by them as opponents to a detachment of my Chaos army - just declare that the Space Marines captain actually has a plasma pistol, or something like that, and we could have a 600 points game, without me having to buy anything more.

I usually paint my models first and then glue them on, but I guess both work. I just think that it allows me to access details better.I read this was fairly common procedure, too, and have a further question regarding that... doesn't the paint make it more difficult to glue the models together? As in, does one have to be really careful to not point where two pieces will fit together, or doesn't it actually matter at all?

I had been thinking about glueing the models as far as nothing obscured anything, painting them, and then completing the glueing job... then again, doesn't this approach waste a lot more primer?

onasuma

2009-01-11, 10:00 AM

Well, one reason - I will probably be playing mostly at the Games Workshop, and the people whom I asked there said they, personally, don't think too highly of this practice (which was to be expected, I guess - they want to make sales, after all).

Second reason (and also why I did not really mind the first), I already got more than enough Chaos Space Marines from the Chaos Battleforce package. Since my planned army lists feature more special troops like berzerkers, plague marines, noise marines and alike, I don't need all that many basic marine models.

And third reason, if I ever play with my friends (who do not collect any army of their own at all yet, though I'm working on that :smallbiggrin:) at home, the marines from Black Reach would already be 585 points worth of army that could be used by them as opponents to a detachment of my Chaos army - just declare that the Space Marines captain actually has a plasma pistol, or something like that, and we could have a 600 points game, without me having to buy anything more.

First: Then they are terrible, terrible people. Conversion from loyalist to chaos marines is one of the most used conversions in the game. All of my terminators bar my lord are made from loyalist marines as are half a dozen of my raptors. Take a few spikes and bits from the chaos battle force and they are instant chaos marines. It is a common practice and one I highly recommend.

Second: Its always good to have variety of choices avaliable, and strength of numbers is often and important asset to have. Yes your army list is good and a strong force, but its important to be able to tweak it.

Third: chaos fight chaos. It happens. Alot.

Winterwind

2009-01-11, 10:15 AM

First: Then they are terrible, terrible people. Conversion from loyalist to chaos marines is one of the most used conversions in the game. All of my terminators bar my lord are made from loyalist marines as are half a dozen of my raptors. Take a few spikes and bits from the chaos battle force and they are instant chaos marines. It is a common practice and one I highly recommend.Might have been my fault; I think I said something like "so I heard I could maybe use those marines from Black Reach as Chaos marines" without clarifying I would add some bits from elsewhere or explaining they would be recent renegades then.
And the codes itself rather explicitly proposes doing just that, so yeah, I think I'll ignore that...

Second: Its always good to have variety of choices avaliable, and strength of numbers is often and important asset to have. Yes your army list is good and a strong force, but its important to be able to tweak it.Hmm, good point.
My army lists all seem to suffer under being extremely elite, with averages of some 27 points per model; with more basic marines, I could make some that were actually, well, cheaper. :smallbiggrin:

Third: chaos fight chaos. It happens. Alot.Heh, somehow, this never occured to me (my beloved force suffer a schizma? Unthinkable! :smallbiggrin:), but you're right, this would allow for even bigger games.

Plus, I wouldn't have to experiment with colour schemes on the models I really want to go into my army.

Then again, those Black Reach marines all have their beautiful, detailed Imperial insignia... almost a shame not to use those...

Awww, I'm torn now! :smallbiggrin:

onasuma

2009-01-11, 10:19 AM

Might have been my fault; I think I said something like "so I heard I could maybe use those marines from Black Reach as Chaos marines" without clarifying I would add some bits from elsewhere or explaining they would be recent renegades then.
And the codes itself rather explicitly proposes doing just that, so yeah, I think I'll ignore that...

Hmm, good point.
My army lists all seem to suffer under being extremely elite, with averages of some 27 points per model; with more basic marines, I could make some that were actually, well, cheaper. :smallbiggrin:

Heh, somehow, this never occured to me (my beloved force suffer a schizma? Unthinkable! :smallbiggrin:), but you're right, this would allow for even bigger games.

Plus, I wouldn't have to experiment with colour schemes on the models I really want to go into my army.

Then again, those Black Reach marines all have their beautiful, detailed Imperial insignia... almost a shame not to use those...

Awww, I'm torn now! :smallbiggrin:

Paint it all shiney and nice. Then, paint red crosses over them. Easy.

Also, its easy to give a squad of termies a chaos icon. Just take a space one from the marines you got, and replace the standard the squad leader has.

Eldan

2009-01-11, 10:21 AM

I should probably be more precise:
Step one, glue models together, but not to the based.
Step two, prime them.
Step three, paint them, but not the underside of their feet. I haven't tried what would happen then, but probably the glue would just melt through the paint.
Step four: prime and paint base.
Step five: Glue model to base.

Basically, this, for me has two advantages: my hands tend to shake a lot when holding fine objects, so when glueing the models to the bases first and then painting both, I tend to get colour from the bases on the models and vice versa. Means I have to make even more corrections than usual. Also, if I don't glue them to the bases, I can turn them around and paint stuff on the inside of the legs or similar spots more easily.
You don't really waste much primer, at least on small models. The underside of the feet won't matter when painting a humanoid model.
As for glueing them, well ,as I said, plastic glue tends to either melt throught the paint or just stick on it. Just be careful: getting glue on a painted model gets really, really ugly.

Winterwind

2009-01-11, 10:52 AM

Paint it all shiney and nice. Then, paint red crosses over them. Easy.

Also, its easy to give a squad of termies a chaos icon. Just take a space one from the marines you got, and replace the standard the squad leader has.Hmmm... I could try painting a six-pointed star on their armour with one of the points piercing the Imperial eagle's chest... :smallbiggrin:
I'll have to think about that. :smallsmile:

I should probably be more precise:
Step one, glue models together, but not to the based.
Step two, prime them.
Step three, paint them, but not the underside of their feet. I haven't tried what would happen then, but probably the glue would just melt through the paint.
Step four: prime and paint base.
Step five: Glue model to base.At which step does texturing the base come in this? Four? Do the models still stick to the base if one does that?

Erloas

2009-01-11, 10:58 AM

Most of my infantry models I put together completely before priming and modeling, many of the big models like vehicles I'm just putting the model together into primary sections so I can take it apart and paint the insides and get more detail.

Some of my infantry I've put on bases and some of them I haven't, it really depends on what sort of stuff is going on around the legs and if it will be practical to paint them on the base or not. As it is I've glued the scorpions, banshees, dark reapers, pathfinders and guardians to their bases. The War Walkers and dire avengers I don't have glued down, and of course all of my jetbikes and skimmers aren't glued to the base since the bases are magnetic. I didn't glue the dire avengers down because they have cloth that hangs down between their legs and it seems like it would be hard to paint that and the legs well with the base in the way.
Most of my fantasy models I didn't glue to the bases but what I found is that then there is no good place to hold the models and you are almost always holding onto pointy edges like arms and weapons and it tends to chip the paint off by handling them like that before the paint gets a good chance to dry.

If you try to glue onto paint it sometimes works, depending on how good of a hold you need, a head probably isn't a big issue, and if you have pins through the part and glue the pins in place, or with riders on bikes/mounts (in terms of fantasy) then glueing to painted surfaces isn't that bad. However when a glue joint breaks it is always at the weakest point and in most cases that is where the primer/paint sticks to the plastic/metal. And that isn't a very good hold, so generally it will come off and it will take a little bit of extra paint with it. So even with reglueing you will have to touch up the paint (if you are that worried about it)

What I did with my models as I learned this is that I would prime and paint them as usual then any point I needed to glue down, such as the feet, I would take a hobby knife and scrape off any primer that happened to be there for a good plastic surface to glue to. A practical approach for feet on bases, but not really pratical on concaved surfaces (such as arm or neck holes, or sometimes arms and shields).
For some of my models where I know I'm going to need to glue it after I prime and paint it (those vehicles I'm leaving in multiple parts) what I plan on doing is putting a little bit of masking tape where I'm going to glue before I prime so I can pull it off later and have a good surface to glue to. Much like people do when painting a house.

So far I've always done my basing after I've put the model on and painted it. Depending on what type of basing you are using though some of it can absorb a lot of paint. There have been a few times I've wanted to prime a base but can't because there is no way to do it around a painted mini glued to it. Especially if you do a lot of work on any given base, such as putting fallen enemies on it (or at least their arms, heads, insignia, etc), not so much an issue for normal troops, but often done for special characters, monsterous creatures, etc. So this time I'm going to try basing most of my bases (on the models that are on a base) before I prime them.

As for painting the bases and model, I'm probably going to start with the base coat at very least on the base before anything else. Probably a base coat and a quick dry-brush. Because painting a sanded base tears up brushes really bad and really quickly (don't use good brushes for it) and a torns up brush frays a lot and you can't get a good line with them you will not be able to get very close to a painted leg without getting paint on it. Also there is no way to dry-brush close to another surface (such as a leg) without getting some carry over onto it, for much the same reason.
That way when I get to painting the model I just paint over anything that happened with the basing and don't have go to back and touch up the legs at all. And when I'm painting the legs I will be using my good brushes so I will have good control to minimize any overlapping paint.

Of course it really depends on how meticulous you want to be with painting. If its your first models and you are just learning what you are doing then I wouldn't worry about it much either way because no matter what you do when you come back to them in 6 months to a year and see what they look like compared to what you can do then those sorts of issues won't seem like too much anyway.

Winterwind

2009-01-11, 12:18 PM

Wow... thank you so much for such a comprehensive explanation. I really appreciate the effort. This is going to help me a lot. :smallsmile:

Just so I got that right, as far as the base is concerned, you first glue the models (depending on model, either painted or not) onto the base, then texture it, then prime and paint it, correct?

Eldan

2009-01-11, 01:11 PM

Right... I never texture my bases much... I just glue some grass on when I've painted it green. Mostly because I can't get any sand or anything around here. The only ones were I changed that was with the rangers, where I glued bushes on my ranger squad in forest camouflage (green) and small, brownish pebbles on those in desert camouflage (light brown).

Bryn

2009-01-11, 01:18 PM

Just so I got that right, as far as the base is concerned, you first glue the models (depending on model, either painted or not) onto the base, then texture it, then prime and paint it, correct?
That's the usual way, yep.

Of course, if you're planning on using some static grass, save that until after painting :smalltongue:

Winterwind

2009-01-11, 01:20 PM

That's the usual way, yep.What would happen if one did not prime the base?

Of course, if you're planning on using some static grass, save that until after painting :smalltongue:Unless I wanted not-green grass, I presume? (Not that I do, just asking)

One more question - are all those myriads of paints with subtly different colours really necessary if one wants to do shading or simply use different colours than the ones one already has? Is it not possible to mix different shades or colours with these paints?

Bryn

2009-01-11, 01:25 PM

It is possible; I have heard the pigments sometimes mix in a strange way, so I'd advise testing a particular mixture before putting them on a model.

Ever eager to make money, GW even sells empty paint pots for putting your mixed paints in.

Edit:
Not priming the base wouldn't really have an effect. As far as I know, paint sticks just as well, and nobody's going to see where primer stops and base begins.

I think putting paint on the static grass would damage the, um, staticness of the grass somewhat, and it might be hard to get it looking like blue grass instead of a blue, vaguely grassish lump. Once again, I'd test it first :smallwink:

Eldan

2009-01-11, 01:53 PM

Well, on the subject of mixing colours:
I once tried to mix some orange from yellow and red when I was painting my Fire Dragon Exarch. I got some kind of dirt brown. Strangely enough, mixing light dirt brown with red gave me some kind of orange.

Winterwind

2009-01-11, 02:03 PM

I see.

Okay, I'll experiment a bit, then. :smallsmile:

Malek

2009-01-11, 02:58 PM

Three questions for you peple:

1) How do you go around painting models that hold their weapons in both hands - do you -pre paint weapon and chest area and then assemble, or do you assemble first, paint later? (So far I've tried traditional assemble than paint, and it was a bit hard at some moments)

2) Are SM Terminators normally based on large bases or is it only the cease one included in one of recent White Dwarfs (my friend gifted me that one, as I intend to get me some SM after I finished Necrons I have planned for now)

3) How does one mount the big Crystal on top of Necron monolith - while I won't be assembling it any soon, I looked how things fit a bit, and it seems that I'll have either to let it sit loosely on the "tripod" or use PVA (so I don't wreck how it looks) to glue it to that, and I'm not sure which way is intended.

In other news I finished that one prototype necron I showed off earlier (no pictures though - friend didn't have his camera handy this time, and the camera on my laptop is godawfull). Turned out quite nice, though I'm a bit dissapointed on one thing - somewhere along many guides I've checked I got the idea to highlight the edge of the blade on gauss gun with mithril silver, but it turns out it's hard to notice that on boltgun metal :smalltongue:

Also I cut and glued all the warriors up to the torsos, and it turned out that even after several, ahem, "combat looses" I have 20 models + the prototype one - so if I just manage to glue the arms properly (90-degree bent arms look like a major pain to glue, ased on previous attempts) I'll have my two troop choices covered *and* I'll have a spare model to test the highlighting on :smallbiggrin:

onasuma

2009-01-11, 03:05 PM

Killersquid

2009-01-12, 05:31 AM

Alright, so I was going to get Wazdakka for my army, and went online to find the model. There is none, so now I have to make one. The question I ask is what should I use to make him, and how should I go about it? I'm thinking Warboss, 1 bike or 2, some big shootas, and maybe some skeleton skulls from Fantasy from the bitz box or other player to put on fire (now where to find the fire...). Can anyone help me out?

onasuma

2009-01-12, 12:06 PM

Bryn

2009-01-12, 12:36 PM

Not having the current Ork codex, is Wazdakka essentially a Warboss on a bike?

http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/acatalog/wbbike11store.jpg
That model there (http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/orkwbbike.htm) (from Forge World) is totally awesome, but also crazy-expensive at around £40.

Of course, a good conversion would look just as good or better.

Killersquid

2009-01-12, 12:50 PM

Lorn

2009-01-12, 01:19 PM

O-k then. I'm planning to convert myself a squad of ten Grey Knights, though will be able to split it into two squads if needed, obviously.

After finding a site called BitzBox (http://www.bitzbox.co.uk/) which happens to sell individual GW parts extremely cheaply (YAY!) I think I'm almost ready to create an order, when I have the money and the parts are in stock.

So far, my list is as follows:

{table]Site|Bit|Price|Amount|Total
GW Official|GK Nemesis Force Weapons|£6.85|2|£13.70
Bitzbox|Space Marine Black Templar Head B|£0.50|10|£5.00
Bitzbox|Space Marine Body Back|£0.05|10|£0.50
Bitzbox|Space Marine Sergeant Body Front|£0.50|1|£0.50
Bitzbox|Space Marine Body Front D|£0.30 |5|£1.50
Bitzbox|Space Marine Body Front C|£0.30 |4|£1.20
Bitzbox|Dreadnought Storm Bolter|£0.80|7|£5.60
Bitzbox|Space Marine Backpack B|£0.20|8|£1.60
Bitzbox|Space Marine Legs with Kneepads|£0.80|5|£4.00
Bitzbox|Space Marine Legs without Kneepads|£1.00|3|£3.00
Bitzbox|Space Marine Commander Legs|£1.00|2|£2.00
Bitzbox|25mm Round Closed Slottabase|£0.10|10|£1.00[/table]

Total price for the bitz is £39.60. Adding in P&P, it comes to £46.10.

The original price for the unit of Grey Knights is £39.10 for two box sets of five. I'm not making a saving, but if all goes to plan, the unit will look vastly better.

You may notice - I'm missing left arms, shoulderpads and three stormbolters; I already have the spare parts. I also have the heads, to be honest, but I felt like a more crusader-y feel... I also have two backpacks planned for use on the Sergeant(s). I think I have everything, seeing as I definitely have enough conversion bits in my box.

The important thing is this: Can any of you see if I've missed anything out? I don't want to realise that there's no way the conversion will work due to a missing part or two...

SolkaTruesilver

2009-01-12, 01:45 PM

Hum.. I was thinking maybe of getting some roughriders, but I find the whole concept of cavalry (horse-cavalry) silly alongside tanks.

So, Maybe using Eldar hover-bikes? My army's fluff is that they fight for the Tau, so maybe I could use some Tau Drone as engines...?

Or maybe merely find some regular motorcycles for my cavalry? Where could I find nice motorcycles of the appropriate size?

Bryn

2009-01-12, 02:24 PM

Regarding Rough Riders...
On the old GW site there was a Convershun Klinic article on converting a Cadian Rough Rider with a motorbike. Sadly, though that article seems to have been eaten by GW's more insane managers. It might be possible to find it on the Internet Archive or elsewhere on the Internet. Sadly, the conversion was rather complicated so I couldn't describe it very well.

As an alternative to bikes, consider cyborg horses like the Death Korps of Krieg use. It adds a sci-fi twist that makes them less out of place alongside tanks. The Death Riders models are pretty crazy (horses in gasmasks!) but also silly-expensive. Alternatively, convert plastic horses to make them look part-mechanical.

Another alternative is to ride what are basically desert dinosaurs. The Mukaali Rough Riders (again from FW) are pretty detailed models, and they look rather cool. The upper body can be replaced with an appropriate torso for whatever type of Guard you have if you don't want Tallarn troops, making them a bit easier to fit in than the Death Rider models.

I don't know of any bike-riding kits by other miniatures companies, but googling '28mm bike' or something similar might help?